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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 5:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24805
Location: North America
Car Model:
Quote:
It says mopar elec. control unit on box and a part # of Sum-850018
Ah, okay, that'll be this one, then. Could very easily be your problem; this is a "white box" generic cheapo item almost certainly from China. It costs 1/3 what a good quality name brand unit costs, and that money has to be taken out of the unit somehow. Failure rate on non-brand parts like this is very high. Do you have a spare ECM known to be good? If not, go get a Standard/BlueStreak #LX-101 or a NAPA Echlin #TP-51. No modifications to these numbers! Reject an LX-101T or an TP-51SB or any such thing.
Quote:
the ballast was just replaced along with everything else but I did crack the ceramic on it.
Okay, replace that, too. Standard-BlueStreak RU-4 or NAPA-Echlin ICR-11.

Whose coil did you install…?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:49 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:29 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Raleigh, NC
Car Model:
Hello,

last spring and summer I reported the same strange problem in my d100. I had done a complete replacement of every wire then added in HEI system, a Pertronix system, and a MSD system, all in as redundant ignition systems to be hooked in if a failure to start occurred. After months of troubleshooting the problem turned out to be a faulty connector itself. It was not made right in that the barrel that wires go into to be crimped was stamped and sheared from the terminal end but unseeable because the break was hidden by insulation. The parts were close enough to make connection for a while but upon running would open up enough to break the connection. Unlike yurs though, the truck would sometimes start again after sitting. I only found it by steady troubleshooting over time with a VOM while stressing each connection by hand. The same thing can occur if using old wires with low dielectric, and remember dielectric can be high when cold and low when warm on old wiring as grease thins. My personal opinion is that too often either the resistor or a module is implicated in strange start/stop conditions. Often a missing ground or wimpy ground can make strange things happen in slants, in my experience. It is why I use a battery cable bolted to a copper washer brazed to the firewall for the engine to firewall ground, for instance.

rock
'64d100


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:38 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2008 6:00 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Fayettenam NC
Car Model:
Well, got her goin again.It was the 6 way connector that feeds the engine, and the only part of the harness I didn't molest :oops: I cleaned it and reconnected it.Thanks for the help guys. 8)


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