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eny tips to break in my new slant?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38684		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Jan 25, 2010 1:03 pm ]
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Quote:
ok what about 10w 40
Still too thick, and a poor choice for general usage.
Author:  passing you [ Mon Jan 25, 2010 3:26 pm ]
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I broke my cam in at 2400-3000rpm for 30min
had a .460 mopar purple cam and used ford 370cid springs '120lbs seat', worked great!
I ran Schaeffers oil supreme para syn 7000 20-50w, says right on the bottle
''for flat tappet cam engines'' good stuff at $4.30 a qt.
oh, and it depends where you live.
good luck.
Author:  twissty [ Mon Jan 25, 2010 4:45 pm ]
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Quote:
Quote:
How does this soound? I used rotella 15W40 oil for the initial start-up
Way too thick! Slow to get where it needs to get with brand-new tight clearances.
Should I change it now to a plain 5w-30 SM dino oil?
The motor has about 40 minutes total time on it. (30 mins for cam break in plus 3 heat/cool cycles while I sorted out the carb/ choke issues).
The shop doing the mechanical is a former (as of Jan 1) Gm dealer thats across the street from my house.
Author:  66aCUDA [ Mon Jan 25, 2010 5:58 pm ]
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Boy I would get that thick oil out fast 5 or(0) W 20 or 30 for most of the world is fine.
Frank
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Jan 25, 2010 6:47 pm ]
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Yup "Thick oil for better protection" is one of those olde-tyme bits of hand-me-down wisdom (like "warming up" the car for half an hour before driving off) that does more harm than good. Me, I would probably use a 5w20 oil for break-in.
Author:  zorg [ Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:52 pm ]
Post subject:  2 months ago...
I used 5w20, (cheap garbage because that was the only store that was open), with a bottle of zddp. After the 20min cam break in, and 15min? of running getting everything dialed in, I drove it to work a couple days. Then I changed the oil and filter, and did a 700 mile road trip.
Author:  passing you [ Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:54 pm ]
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hey cool, It's different for some.

Warming an engine up for 2-3 min is fine for thermal expansion.
Sitting there idling away for 10 min or more sux, look at city trucks during tear down... ridge city.

As for thick or thin oils, thin stuff frees up more power and thats where that wisdom comes from=racers.
Loose street motors that rev for long periods of time on the freeway and come to an idle and low speed operation will have a nice 10-15 psi drop in oil pressure from that same thin oil and even an idle speed drop.

I like mine above 25psi at idle fully warmed up.
With the thin stuff my oil pressure would be at 18-20psi, anything below 15psi and the warning light comes on.
I like a strong film, the multi viscosity oil gives that.

Besides.. we can run whatever we like [reasonably speaking] and it won't hurt the motor despite what anyone says, chrysler ran straight 30w.

I think the proper oil clearances and using the correct bearing [or modifying one to work AS IT WAS ENGINEERED TO] is more important then oil viscosity, unless you got someone wanting to run straight 50w, save that for your harley.

However.. it is true that 10 psi for every 1000rpm is sufficient.

remember 20-50w is 20w cold and 50w hot , not 50w cold....

Have fun with it, and make changing viscosity the last thing you do AFTER tuning it to run 'best'.
Author:  theomahamoparguy [ Tue Jan 26, 2010 3:31 pm ]
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I am using Mobil Delvac 10w40, 1 qt. and the rest is havoline10w30 (to fill line). I think it is way too thick for out here in the winter.My theory: cold oil gets pumped to the top end but I think is having a hard time draining back down. Also it is making it hard on the starter when it is cold. BTW, we got down to -23 this year.

For break in I would just use the rotella. But then again I can get it for free at work. Maybe mixed with a little bit of EOS.

BTW, I used the Mobil Delvac in my Freightliner with the 60 series Detroit and went to 1,144,000 and the motor was running just fine when I traded it in. Used 1/2 gallon of lucas @ every oil change. (thats 1/2 gal. to 11 gallons of oil). Changed the oil between 15.000 and 17,000.

I tried using Rotella in the Detroit one time but it seemed like it liked to leak out and had more blow by.
Author:  passing you [ Wed Jan 27, 2010 4:20 pm ]
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FWIW There's no fighting oil psi when there no real oil psi during the cranking portion of stat up, unless it takes you over 15 seconds to start your engine.

The 20w drain back rate is just fine.

If you only had a 2qt pan I'd consider that thinking.
Author:  passing you [ Fri Jan 29, 2010 6:43 pm ]
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food for thought,

Nascar guys will run low weight 20w or less to qualify fast and then drain it and run 20 50w....
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:10 pm ]
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That's certainly something I'll keep in mind the next time I'm in a NASCAR race. :twisted:

Over on FABO, the other day a new member blundered into a briar patch by asking "What's the best oil?". Duck and cover; everyone's falling over themselves to recommend their pet brand of oil — a lot of them pushing Scamsoil or Uncle Jerome's Super Hot Rod Motor Oil or some other boutique specialty oil, in this or that or the other viscosity grade. Most of these recommendations have no substance, knowledge, science, or fact behind them, just marketeering babble regurgitated by people who want to feel authoritative.
Author:  passing you [ Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:56 pm ]
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Yeah I read that, funny stuff too!

I tossed a log on the fire as well, but if go to the site you'll get every peice of info could possibly desire and then some, It's damn good stuff.

I won't even sequel that thread and mention the brand here.


Everything gained in automotive technology was mostly taken from racing.
Author:  64drtGt [ Sun Jan 31, 2010 7:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:

As for thick or thin oils, thin stuff frees up more power and thats where that wisdom comes from=racers.
Loose street motors that rev for long periods of time on the freeway and come to an idle and low speed operation will have a nice 10-15 psi drop in oil pressure from that same thin oil and even an idle speed drop.

I like mine above 25psi at idle fully warmed up.
With the thin stuff my oil pressure would be at 18-20psi, anything below 15psi and the warning light comes on.
I like a strong film, the multi viscosity oil gives that.

Besides.. we can run whatever we like [reasonably speaking] and it won't hurt the motor despite what anyone says, chrysler ran straight 30w.

I think the proper oil clearances and using the correct bearing [or modifying one to work AS IT WAS ENGINEERED TO] is more important then oil viscosity, unless you got someone wanting to run straight 50w, save that for your harley.

However.. it is true that 10 psi for every 1000rpm is sufficient.
t'.

I run 10w-40 in about everything I own if i run a thin oil in my 97 chrysler sebring 2.5v6 at idle the oil pressure is wayyyyy to low hell even with a thicker oil its still lower than I would like. It's got a 144000 miles on it and recently had a lifter issue. Bottle of lucas fixed that problem now she runs fine again.
Author:  theslantingsix [ Sun Jan 31, 2010 3:04 pm ]
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thanks guys im gonna try 5w 20 that my dad can get through his work that is for engine breakins
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