i would be very happy to get 28 MPG. man head work has went up. he said 200 for the valve job 20 a hole for hardened seats. 30 to remove a broke off stud. i didn't even ask how much for the shave. set my wallet on fire
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| How much should i mill the head? https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38789 |
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| Author: | 65cuda [ Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:27 am ] |
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i would be very happy to get 28 MPG. man head work has went up. he said 200 for the valve job 20 a hole for hardened seats. 30 to remove a broke off stud. i didn't even ask how much for the shave. set my wallet on fire
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| Author: | Doc [ Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:38 am ] |
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Quote: Quote: Ok i broke out the CC stuff today and my head works out to be 64cc. now i put that in the calc. at the KB site and it says i am at 7.8 So i play with the CCs till i find that 20 less cc gives me 9.0 to 1. But using the math Frank put up looks like i would need to shave off .120 .
Your math is correct. I have found the make or break point for "new" push rods to be right around .140+/-.1 am i doing this math right thats sounds like a lot. 2 is it possable to take that much off if i did would i need shorter pushrods? Your .120 should be ok. This is a common amount to take off the slant. There is a lot of meat there unlike a sb. Frank If it were me, I would take .080 off the block and .040 off the head. In general, the block is more stable and stronger then the head so I take most of the metal from there. DD |
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| Author: | 65cuda [ Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:13 am ] |
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i would agree with that but i am going to do a hand hone and rering. i would hate to see how much they charge to deck the block too. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:39 am ] |
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Quote: If you are rebuilding the entire engine, it is a good idea to do some of the needed milling on the block's deck.
I went with Doc's advice on my rebuild 4 years ago and decked the block more and shaved less off the head.
If it were me, I would take .080 off the block and .040 off the head. In general, the block is more stable and stronger then the head so I take most of the metal from there. DD |
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| Author: | Crazy Matt [ Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:25 pm ] |
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Should zero deck the block |
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| Author: | 65cuda [ Mon Feb 01, 2010 8:12 am ] |
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you mean take the 120 off the block instead of the head? the slugs are 160 in the hole so it still wouldn't make me a qunich motor. i am just trying to get the most efficent C/R for reg gas. the mach shop already has the head they may not have done the milling yet. now i see a local 83 /6 and trans for sale for 300. i am going to have more than that just in the head. so many choices. so little time. now what do i do. |
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Mon Feb 01, 2010 8:45 am ] |
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Don't try to zero deck the block. A zero deck 170 is fine, but not a 225. .160" down the cylinder is about right for a stock 225. If the bottom end is together it's a lot more work to deck the block than mill the head. |
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| Author: | 65cuda [ Mon Feb 01, 2010 10:21 am ] |
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i agree. the motor is on the engine stand and i am going to put new bearings on the crank an rods while i am switching that. the bores look good it's a low miles motor. but i am thinking about putting new rings on it anyway. sense i am upping the C/R. so i do have it mostly apart. Some people have said take some off both and i agree with that if it was a racing motor with high compression. but it's just going to be a daily driver. i am going to drive it like an old man because thats what i am. |
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Mon Feb 01, 2010 10:52 am ] |
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If it's down to the short block already I'd take out any ring ridge that's present and put in new rings. It's mostly labor and it's never going to be any easier! |
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| Author: | Crazy Matt [ Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:37 pm ] |
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Holy smokes !!!! 160 down is way down in the hole. Im gonna start on my slant in the next week or so it looks like - depends if I pull my ford tractor apart first tho. It will be no big deal to pull apart the short block and deck the block. I dont wanna mill that much off the block tho. Might weaken the deck by that point. I'll prolly mill atleast .070 off my head. Might touch the block if it needs a set of rings. Or might just do it anyways since I have to swap oil pans - heck I might as well cam it. Now I could leave well enough alone and just drive it  Its not gonna turn out like my cummins! |
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| Author: | 65cuda [ Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:29 am ] |
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160 in the hole is way down there i guess it was easy way to lower the C/R. remember 70 off the head only nets you 40. the old stock steel shim was 23 and the new felpro is 55. so u lose 30 on a head gasket change. just saying Gary |
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| Author: | 65cuda [ Tue Feb 02, 2010 10:48 am ] |
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OK i have to correct myself. i was assuming (really bad thing to do) that Fellpro would stamp small block and slant head gaskets out of the same material WRONG. i decided to open my gasket set and mic. the headgasket. it was .041 at the firering and .037 other. So now that i do the math i need to change how much i want shaved off to .090 off. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Tue Feb 02, 2010 11:14 am ] |
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I have measured 0.033-37" for the FelPro compressed thickness. Lou |
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| Author: | 65cuda [ Tue Feb 02, 2010 11:46 am ] |
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i was wondering what they would end up at after compressed. thats good now i will have to redo the math again. well i am learning. hope it helps others too. thanks |
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| Author: | terrylittlejohn [ Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:35 pm ] |
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doc is right, if the engine was in the car i would think of just doing the head, but i have found that a larger combustion chamber make more power, the cost of decking the block is not that much difference. down here it cost 60$ to mill the head and 100$ to deck the block. all the slant`s i have done were .187 down the hole with stock pistons.if you cut .100 of the block and clean up the head surface, you should be close to 9.5/1 comp. also when a fle-pro gasket is compressed it is close to .033in thickness. |
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