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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 7:43 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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If I remember correctly, the 999 trans has a "double" wrap rear band, which required a anchor pin in the case. I don't think any slant six 904 case has this anchor pin. I think if you use a 998 trans, everything will swap over.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:35 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Thanks Charlie! I'll pull the pan and check the band before I buy anything. I don't think I really need the five clutches in the 999 anyway. I'm pretty sure the 998 four clutch pack will be enough of an improvement for my brother's van.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 6:33 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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I have this book, and found this pictorial today that looks to be helpful.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:32 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Thanks. Pages 5 and 6 in the Imperialclub link only load half the page for me, but the rest look good.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:25 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Reed see if these will load:

Page 5

Page 6


Before partial disassembling of my transmission, I read & studied my Torqueflite book many times before cracking the old 904 open. For some reason many of these manuals have low resolution photographs, and bad contrast management making for a tougher time deciphering what the heck is being discussed. Once the transmission was on the bench a lot of the descriptions & photographs made a lot more sense.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 12:45 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Thanks, I got them. I have ben going over my FSM every night for the past few nights, and I think I am finally read to remove the valve body today.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 11:42 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:27 pm
Posts: 187
Location: northern NJ, USA
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Quote:
Just a tip on installing the lip seals. Get some mylar sheet and cut peice big enough to almost wrap completly around the seal, use vasoline to lube and stick the drum with the mylar wraped around it into the hole. Just push down and it works like a ring compresser. Once the piston is seated pull the mylar sheet out. :shock:
Use only a "transmission assembly lube" e.g. "Transgel" in an automatic transmission. Its compatible with ATF and won't harm seals. Anything else can contaminate the fluid or clutches.

A seal installation tool is easy to make from an old bleach bottle or soda pop bottle. Cut a cylinder from the bottle, then cut it lengthwise. Now use a sharp utility knife to cut the edge at a bevel such that the sharp edge won't be in contact with the seal when using the tool. You'll need to make at least 2...one for the large lip seals and another for the square-section O-rings on the shafts. If you use a gallon-size bleach bottle, the bottom of the bottle can be used to presoak the clutches in ATF. Let them soak for a few minutes until the bubbling stops.

Ken
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 12:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Use only a "transmission assembly lube" e.g. "Transgel" in an automatic transmission. Its compatible with ATF and won't harm seals. Anything else can contaminate the fluid or clutches.
Correct, but don't tell that to the people who've decided they know better than some stupid ol' engineer and run 10w30 engine oil or non-spec trans fluid that was marginal when it was a current fluid 30 years ago, or Log Cabin maple-flavoured table syrup, or anything else other than real and correct trans fluid. :roll: The fact that these jokers manage to keep their transmissions in one piece despite this kind of abuse is a testament to the extreme robustness and mayhem-resistance of the Torqueflite.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 1:02 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13278
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I'l remember that for the next time I have to do a rebuild. Fortunately, I ended up not have to tear this one down completely and replace everything, but I will be doing another transmission later this year (likely). Nothing but ATF+4 goes into my Mopar transmissions these days.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 1:38 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
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Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
not saying it is totally "right" by the book, but I learned to do the Vaseline trick when I 1st learned to do trannys back in the '80s.
(my teachers in community college were the one that told us that, the school actually had 3 different guys tag team teach the auto transmission class, 1 each that worked at a GM, a Ford, and a Mopar dealerships)
IDK if the "transmission assembly goo" was on the market then, either.
I have NEVER used brake fluid, motor oil, chassis grease, etc (other things I have heard "since then" from various sources that "work") in my transmission work. I have a tub of the "real stuff" now.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:15 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2008 5:01 pm
Posts: 516
Location: Taneytown, MD
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I have a few pictures when I put '75 360-999 parts in my '73 s/6 trans.I could email them to someone if they would post them on this forum.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:32 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13278
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Sure! Shoot me a PM and I will send you my e-mail address. I'l put them in my photobucket account and put them on the site.

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