Whoa, wait a minute... you were able to jiggle a wire at the firewall connection and get it to cut out?? That was your lucky day, and it flew past without your noticing. (For most of us mortals, intermittent problems always behave perfectly when the mechanic looks at it.) Granted, this may not be the only thing wrong with the car, but any reproducible problem is a gift. Take care of this one first, then wonder about carburetors.

That "bulkhead connector" is a known trouble spot. Wait, that's not quite true... it's a fine way to do things for the first 20+ years or so. Then the grease (which is there to prevent corrosion) starts to dry out, so oxygen is able to get to the contacts, and the resulting dirty connections no longer carry current as well as tight ones used to. Problem is, they can look OK when you test them with low current, but fail under high current-- consequently, the alternator circuit is usually among the first to show problems, while things like oil pressure lights and turn signals keep working a bit longer.

On this 40-yr old car that you are counting on to be reliable every day, if you haven't disassembled the connector, cleaned ALL the connections on both sides, refilled the dielectric grease, and reassembled, it would be well worth your time. Check the resistance across each junction: you want as close to zero as you can get. (Typically 0.2 Ohm or less is realistic.) Depending on how much corrosion there is, you can typically remove it with a combination of contact cleaner chemical spray and emery boards (fingernail filing tools).

If nothing else, this will eliminate a lot of questions as you troubleshoot other parts of the car. And considering that you want to please not only the wife but also yourself, a little preventative maintenance sure beats getting stranded. It might even take you less time than it would to walk home.

- Erik

PS. I don't have to remind you about removing the negative battery cable before doing playing with "hot" wires, right? If you think the wife isn't happy with your choice of old clunker cars, imagine what she'll be saying as she takes you to the hospital...

_________________
Lots of early Valiants and Barracudas have crossed my path.
Also a handful of other toys for variety now and then.

yeah the wire thing was "solved"...is now different "problem"...or so they said...and i believe so too.
now it's in the carb...it "runs", even with the "issue" i got.
BUT i have to use the brake as "clutch" and keep RPM's high...runs GREAT in 3rd or higher gear...on highway...EVEN with this issue.
the slow down, and stop/go traffic is where i can't keep it smooth...
so it appears to NOT be electrical at this point...it "turns over, and starts" just need to work REAL damn hard to keep it running...which makes sense? esp if there is slop in the old shaft housing...
or in so as my previous post...the carb guy said this is the issue...
i agree with the other things, esp the old tank...but it "runs" and get PLENTY of gas when i am on it...just when i am off it at slow speeds....
i am leaning to it being correct...so i was looking to find a NOS 1920 for it...NON ReManufactered!!!! other wise i will get the 2 barrel, and manifolds too...
i want it to be a fun sorta daily driver...not race, etc..just a way to work if it's cold/rainy...otherwise gas prices and all...i'll ride my motorcycle.
....just wanna get it back at this point...it's worth the $$$, and i KNOW it's not far off...just this hiccup...runs like a champ, until the bent thingie

PS. yeah i do know about that negative terminal removal...was a lesson i learned only ONCE!!

_________________
1970 Plymouth Valiant 4DR --Tuxedo Black

I would advice you to sort out the reason for your current problems before switching to another carburetor, or you may just end up with more of the same troubles once more...

Olaf.

_________________
Aspenized

My '73 Duster was doing something similar, ran fine at speed, would die at idle. The guy I bought the car from thought this was normal...

The problem was that distributor was installed incorrectly and the initial timing was too low. Reinstalling the distributor and setting the initial advance 12* BTDC solved the problem.

So the question is , what is the initial advance set at?

ok, ok, ok....
IS THERE A NOS Holley 1920 available in Slant6land???
right now, i am at a loss...
either i go REMANUFACTURED, OR switch to 2 barrel(*SuperSix, or some other variant...)
so i ask you ALL.....is there a Holley 1920 worth saving out there??
Blind ...still working on getting the Valiant back out there...and i am pretty sure, someone in here has one available...PayPal?? ebay?? craigslist??

_________________
1970 Plymouth Valiant 4DR --Tuxedo Black