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Help!!! Engine swap problem - possible timing nightmare!!!
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=44845		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sat May 07, 2011 9:37 am ]
Post subject: 
Intake opens means when it starts to open.....usually expressed at a fixed lash reading.....like .006. Same with the exhaust closed event, that is when the valve is back on the seat.

You are doing really well with this.
Author:  LUCKY13 [ Sat May 07, 2011 12:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Is it possible this engine has a after market cam in it and it needs more lash than factory?



Also what does your timing read when using a light on it ? No guessing , whats the timing set at? Also remember there is a bolt that comes up from the bottom of dizzy that you can loosen to help get the ajustment needed when the slot will not give anought ajustment.



Are you still running a points dizzy ? I have seen people get the hot and negitive mixed up on the coil. Negitive goes to dizzy, Hot goes to igntion. Also what about dwell on the points.


Vacume leaks, unless you take a can of carb cleaner and spray around the intake, top and bottom of runners its hard to know for sure if there is a leak or not.


I feel like there is something simple going and its getting you worried about having big problems. Back up and look at the basics, its almost always where the problem is.


Jess
Author:  pishta [ Sat Jan 12, 2013 5:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
What was the verdict on this old post. Buddies slant is same way, idles fine but NO power on the road. Barring popping the timing cover, can we get crank to TDC, then rotate and measure until first valve event STARTS to happen (when does Mopar say it starts, .006, .050, etc?) with a mic across the exhaust valve? Currently running at 0 or -2 idles fine, barely accelerates under gear. thanks.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat Jan 12, 2013 8:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Done that...
Quote:
Buddies slant is same way, idles fine but NO power on the road. Barring popping the timing cover, can we get crank to TDC, then rotate and measure until first valve event STARTS to happen (when does Mopar say it starts, .006, .050, etc?) with a mic across the exhaust valve? Currently running at 0 or -2 idles fine, barely accelerates under gear. thanks
I had that happen once...degreed the cam in while tired (bad move)...had advanced it too much...had to pop the timing cover and redegree in the car, once I did that it became a whole new engine. I would check the valve specs and see where the cam's intake centerline is (bolt degree wheel in place and see when intake max lift occurs...) That will give you a start....

-D.Idiot
Author:  jollyrajr [ Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ordering up a piston stop ($10 vs my time to make one, $10 wins) and maybe even a cam degreeing kit to get thing set.. Tired of chasing previous owner's work :)

Raj

Quote:
What was the verdict on this old post. Buddies slant is same way, idles fine but NO power on the road. Barring popping the timing cover, can we get crank to TDC, then rotate and measure until first valve event STARTS to happen (when does Mopar say it starts, .006, .050, etc?) with a mic across the exhaust valve? Currently running at 0 or -2 idles fine, barely accelerates under gear. thanks.
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