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fuel pump?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49415		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  Danarchy [ Fri Oct 05, 2012 6:54 pm ]
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Quote:
Not applicable to the slant-6 pump.
Odd since the Carter fuel pump that came on my 64 Dart was rebuilt with the 8-bolt kit and worked fine until the inlet came loose.(just like in the picture)
I switched to the cheapo pressed together fuel pump from NAPA, and did the fuel line re-route and never looked back!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Oct 05, 2012 6:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
Not applicable to the slant-6 pump.
Odd since the Carter fuel pump that came on my 64 Dart was rebuilt with the 8-bolt kit and worked fine
...except for producing 9 pounds of pressure instead of the 3-5 pounds the Slant-6 needs.

Those who want their original '60-'63 slant-6 pumps to work correctly are well advised to buy the kit from the link I posted.
Author:  Danarchy [ Sat Oct 06, 2012 1:02 pm ]
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just for clarification. 1960-63 Slant 6 fuel pumps produce 3-5 pounds pressure, and 1964-on produce 9 pounds pressure. :?:
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Oct 06, 2012 1:07 pm ]
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All slant-6 fuel pumps produce 3-5 pounds. The big-block Carter performance pumps are 7-9 psi items. The pressure is determined by the diaphragm stem spring, which is not removable from the diaphragm/stem/spring assembly that comes out of the pump (or in the rebuild kit).
Author:  Danarchy [ Sat Oct 06, 2012 1:09 pm ]
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I was wondering if anyone had ever taken one of the old style Carter fuel pumps and tapped threads in where the pressed in inlet was? to put a screw-in fitting in.
Author:  Danarchy [ Sat Oct 06, 2012 1:16 pm ]
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so by just changing the diaphragm I increased the pressure? :shock:
I used that kit because I live in Texas with 10-20% ethanol in pump gas!
Author:  Mroldfart2u [ Sat Oct 06, 2012 4:45 pm ]
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Quote:
so by just changing the diaphragm I increased the pressure? :shock:
I used that kit because I live in Texas with 10-20% ethanol in pump gas!
Hmmm seems there is a quandary as I am now confused also..... :? Was fine until SSD EXPLAINED it and made it clear as mud.... :shock:
Author:  twentyshots [ Mon Oct 15, 2012 6:44 pm ]
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well, for a few reasons, i sent the fuel pump off to be rebuilt instead of tackling it myself. it arrived today and looks great. i am a bit concerned though......the lever (arm?...the part that is markered green in this photo) and spring are tight and do not really move. how much is it supposed to move? it moves like 1/8 of an inch....
am i about to be aggravated?


Image
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Oct 16, 2012 12:59 am ]
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You should not be able to move it more than that by hand. Put the lever on the (hard) floor and push the pump down and you'll see it moves just fine. Go ahead and install it -- just make sure to rotate the engine until the camshaft eccentric is as "retracted" into the block as possible; use your finger to monitor this as you rotate the engine manually. Otherwise it is possible to hook the arm under the camshaft and then things break when you crank the engine.

Who rebuilt the pump for you?
Author:  twentyshots [ Tue Oct 16, 2012 6:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
You should not be able to move it more than that by hand. Put the lever on the (hard) floor and push the pump down and you'll see it moves just fine. Go ahead and install it -- just make sure to rotate the engine until the camshaft eccentric is as "retracted" into the block as possible; use your finger to monitor this as you rotate the engine manually. Otherwise it is possible to hook the arm under the camshaft and then things break when you crank the engine.

Who rebuilt the pump for you?


then and now automotive, the link you provided. mike, the guy i dealt with, did an excellent job. aside from rebuilding it, he cleaned it up and it looks great.
i pushed it against the floor and it did move more...and sucked air in so i suppose it will work fine, but it certainly did not move easily or a whole lot.....i emailed him and he basically said the same thing you did. he said those style pumps don't need much arm travel because of the design of the arm and that it has to do with the leverage inside. he also said it was difficult to move the arm without additional help, like an adjustable wrench, due to the spring inside.
i assume i am good to go....
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Oct 17, 2012 1:31 am ]
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You are good to go. Carefully install it and enjoy.
Author:  twentyshots [ Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:53 pm ]
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rebuilt pump went in today and it performs excellently. getting that other pump off was a chore; there was a pin end right by one of the bolts and you could hardly get anything around it. took awhile

put tube seals and 6 denso plugs in too, which fit beautifully. i guess i was supposed to leave the washers on because everything ran smooth.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:00 pm ]
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Yup, the '60-'62 heads are the exception to the "take off the ring washers first!" rule.

Why Denso plugs instead of the NGK long-electrode ones?
Author:  twentyshots [ Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:57 pm ]
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Quote:
Why Denso plugs instead of the NGK long-electrode ones?
i don't know if you remember this or not, but i did have the NGK plugs...still do actually, but the plug boots were not grabbing very well...like the NGKs were a little too short. so rather than get a new set of plug wires too, i just opted for the denso plug. it is closer to the overall shape of the original autolites. down the road, i would like to switch over to NGK though...

here's that photo again of the an original autolite next to the NGK...you can see by the thread comparison how it would be a little shallow...

Image
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:21 pm ]
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Oh yeah, the plug boot thing. I had forgot.
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