PM sent. Dropped by the local machine shop this afternoon and realized that I need to find a better machine shop that actually knows about more than Chevy's.

"Why are you going through this much trouble for a slant six?"

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

So, according to the machine shop the engine kit comes with a melling stock replacement camshaft. I'm kind of wary of aftermarket cams and oil pumps since the rash of oil pump drive failures everyone had. We kind of butted heads for a bit when I told him I didn't want to use the oil pump in the kit or the camshaft.

What do you guys think? I need some wisdom here. I was planning on getting an oil pump from Doc and reusing the current cam and lifters. With 200,000+ miles on the cam and lifters would it be a wise choice to reuse them?

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

At 200,000 I would replace the oil pump for sure. I would take the existing oil pump gear off of the old pump and place it on the new pump. I would send the old cam to be reground with a step or two above stock and use it.( I see no reason to keep a stock cam on a rebuild. It costs nothing more to get a little more horsepower and torque.) That way you are using the cam and oil pump gear that have been happy together for 200,000 miles. Of course you will need new lifers, but if they are sending you a new cam in the kit, the lifters should be with it too. Of course inspect the cam gear and oil pump gear for wear 1st.

Just more opinion! Good luck!

Rick

PS. I think Oregon had my cam back to my door in about a week.

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I'm using a new OCG hydraulic blank in the hpak duster, lobes reground to solids....so far no problem with gear mesh or oil pressure (or performance for that matter), so far this 'new' melling standard pump is going good. So I know that OCG's "new" blanks (not reused old cores), are good to go.

It sounds like your machinist is getting the "kit" from Northern auto parts as it comes with the pump and "stock" cam and lifters (actually the Fed Mog cam in the solid lifter kit is not stock, it has an LSA of 109 not the stock 108....FYI). You might save the overhead costs and markups by getting the measurements and just ordering the kit yourself and dropping everything off... I've tryed to part together "just what I needed" for a rebuild and the cost equals out unless you have lots of time to squirrel away some bargain parts as you find them here and there.

-D.Idiot

Actually I was considering getting one of OCG's grinds, mainly the #1527 that was discussed in the hydro cam thread. In case you need a refresher, refer to this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 884804468/

What does everyone think about that cam? With .443/.431 lift what springs will I need, and will the head have to be modified for that much lift? I don't know what the stock cutoff point for an unmodified head is.

As far as oil pumps go, I talked with Doc and I'm getting one of his rebuilt oil pumps with the special gear.

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Jeb
the cam that I ended up with was OCG 1333 Intake on the intake and 1527 Intake on the exhaust

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 274662383/

ground to the stock hydraulic cam 105 LSA

I started with 59cc chambers, milled the head to get them to 53cc, the cam was installed at 102 Intake centerline, piston recession was .162, calculated dynamic compression of 8.17and static of 8.49, calculated cranking pressure was 163,,, here is a link to how the cranking pressure end up

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... highlight=

I kept the stock push rods, they fell with in the generous amount of pre load travel on the hydraulic lifters, used new stock slant six / 318 valve springs, the engine builder shimmed them a bit to get the open load up per OCG recommendations.

I know the motor will run, just don't know how well... I installed the motor in the frame late May early June,, hauled it back to the Kenny's shop and set the body back on. I just checked on it today,, it has just sat for another 6 weeks with almost nothing done..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 037507226/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 151012186/

hopefully I'll get it back this fall, put it together this winter and have it next spring....and know how it runs.

regards
DT

Pulled the engine and started the tear down today. Monday it's off to the machine shop. Didn't see anything obviously wrong besides the water jacket being full of crap and very worn valve guides. Cylinders still have faint crosshatch marks on them. The #6 cylinder looks different from the rest. Also measured the deck height and the pistons are .150 down in the hole. I'll CC the head and port it after it gets hot tanked at the machine shop.

Here are a few pics for the experts.

Head, #6 is the dark nasty one:




#6 piston


3 & 4 rods. The diesel oil sure keeps the inside of an engine clean.


One of the other 5 cylinders. The water is from when the head was pulled.


Dadtruck, I plan on replicating your build except for I'm sticking with the stock size valves and topping the engine off with either a 390 Holley or 500 Edelbrock. I'm going to call OCG sometime next week and order the exact same cam that you have.

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I got that attitude from a machinest when I took my friend's slant head with an "RV" porting job I did for his '80 van.

I didn't need his dumb comments.

Who'd you get for the machine work?

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Disassembled the head yesterday. Found sloppy valve guides, petrified oil seals, and pitted valves.



Check out that restriction in the exhaust port. This head also have the air injection hole in each exhaust port.



Valve with less than stellar seat

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Anybody know of a source for stainless stock size valves? I see that SI makes a set of backcut stainless valves in the stock sizes.

What about seats? What are the stock ones made of and what is a good upgrade?

Look at the pictures in the previous post to see why I'm stressing valve quality. I do a lot of towing with 3000+ trailers over long distances, so I need something that can take the EGT's.

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

You can order stock valves online through here:

http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/sunsho ... list&c=815

I believe they ship worldwide. They have always been good to me.

On ebay for stainless valves in the upgraded size I believe 'many' have used these with good results

http://www.ebay.com/itm/225-slant-six-S ... 37&vxp=mtr

Hope this is of some help.

I've considered the O/S valves, but don't really know if I need them or if they are worth the risk of hitting water when they are cutting new seats.

Can the O/S valves be cut down to stock size?

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Rockauto has stock valves for less than 6.00 each

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,5544

Might have to double check (or I could be plain wrong) but I believe those O/S valves still have the same size stem so only cutting is in the bowl which I thought was relatively safe but I'm no machinist.

Yes the stem is 3/8 just like the stock valves.

How good are the sealed power valves? What material are they made of?

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2