One of our members was planning on building headers for slants that would mount turbos. They were racing them and up in Louisville? Well up for me!

Remote turbos have some appeal.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I would think that there would be a ready market for a turbo /6 header of one kind or another. Having that piece would facilitate mounting the turbo and get the builder past the hardest part of this exercise.

Our header was a nightmare because, my partner 1. had never built one before, 2. had NO help (I never touched the thing,) and 3. couldn't weld (has a pacemeker and the RF noise is a no-no for anyone with a pacemaker.) It's a miracle that he was able to get it done...

So, it was a long, slow, arduous and expensive process. About $1,000.00 for us... with Freddie doing all the labor.

I keep hoping someone will step forward and provide a header that could be mass-marketed, but so far, nobody has.

That U-bend system that FABO member "Pishta" came up wwith, seems to be the simplest, most practical way to do this, without actually building an individual-runner header. It's design makes welding on the cast iron manifold itself, unnecessary. That's a plus, since the cast iron has a tendency to crack even under the best of circumstances, and welding on it doesn't make it any better.

All it takes to make one of these is a piece of U-Bend (2.5"-diameter, short-radius) and two flanges welded to it, one to mount the turbo and one to attach it to the stock manifold outlet on the other end.

If I could weld, I'd make them, myself....
But, I can't.

Bill

I had the idea of making a U bend flanged pipe to bolt onto the factory manifold when doing my setup, but the motor mount was right in the way and I figured the 2 or so inch outlet would be restrictive, especially for going to a t4 flange on the other end

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Tyler, 19
72 Dart Swinger /6T

Well, you may be right about the restrictive nature of a 2.5" U-Bend, but that would still probably not hinder performance very much if 250-300 hp was all someone was after. You're not going to make 500 hp with that stock cast iron manifold, anyway, no matter what you bolt onto it

The prototype Chrysler /6 turbo in the picture posted here used a U-Bend attached to what appeared to be a cast iron manifold that approximated the OEM stock unit, but instead of running the U-Bend forward, thy ran ut toeward the firewall, which missed the motor mount entirely.

I don't know if something like that might be possible with a blow-thru (theirs was a draw-thru system.)

More food for thought...

Bill

Bill, if I'm not mistaken the outlet of the stock cast manifold is even smaller than 2.5 inches, therefor making a reducer necessary.

I must be confused about the way the draw through prototype was set up, but if the outlet was set back towards the firewall, instead of in the center like ours, it would make the fab work for a u bend piece much more practical.

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Tyler, 19
72 Dart Swinger /6T

Tyler,

Do you have a copy of that issue of Mopar Action?

It's the December 2012 issue, on page 46 at the bottom.

I don't think that issue is still on the newsstand, so it you'd like (and, don'r have it,) I will scan that picture and send it to you as an attachment in an email if you'll email me so I'll know where to send it.

The cast iron manifold outlet appears to me to still be in the middle, not offset to one end or another. The U-Bend attaches and is turned toward the firewall, and the turbo mounts to the forward-facing surface of that flange (but, the flange itself, has a horizontal turbo mounting surface.)

You'll understand when you see the picture. It's hard to visualize from this poorly-written explanation, I know.

Send an email to Billdedman@hotmail.com and I'll send it to you.

Bill