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Engine borked. I think I'm screwed.
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50256		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Mon Dec 31, 2012 3:03 pm ]
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you know there is 12.........?
Author:  linda [ Mon Dec 31, 2012 3:06 pm ]
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So your leaving half of them in there? There are 12 in a full set.

If you pick up some used ones, the pushrod is for the Hydraulic slant. Solid lifter pushrods won't work since they don't have an oil passage in them.

Used ones are OK, just remember to check to make sure they're straight, and inspect for excessive wear.

If the head is still mounted, there is a technique needed to make sure the lifter stays in it's bore. You will want to shine a flashlight down in the hole that is missing it's pushrod to make sure it's in the bore. It's likely that it is. Still worth checking!
When removing the pushrod, turn it and apply some sideways pressure. This will help pop it loose from the lifter cup. If you don't, sometimes the lifter will pull out of the bore and fall off to the side. While you can get ahold of the lifter with a bit of wire and coax it back into the bore, it's easier to pull the head to deal with them.

Linda

Edit: Rug pushed the send button before I did! :lol:
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Mon Dec 31, 2012 3:17 pm ]
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roll the push rods on a piece of glass to check for straightness.
Author:  dc [ Mon Dec 31, 2012 6:32 pm ]
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doh. Didn't know there were 12. Not sure what I was thinking. I can get another 6 locally from Napa if I need to. I'll check them when the 6 come in.
Author:  dc [ Wed Jan 02, 2013 8:50 am ]
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Additional question: A coworker brought up the fact that my engine was still knocking violently before I shut it off (and the push rod would have already popped out by that point). Is there anything I should be checking with the valves or lifters to verify there isn't another problem, prior to putting in a new pushrod?

Reading a thread on here about someone removing a pushrod (or several) and the vehicle still being driveable prompted my thought that there might be something else wrong.
Author:  dc [ Sun Jan 13, 2013 5:56 am ]
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Finally got around to playing with it yesterday.

I checked the rest of the pushrods, and they were straight. It was an exhaust pushrod that got borked on the number 4 cylinder (counting from the front of the engine). Put in a new one, turned the engine by hand to verify that nothing was binding up, and that the valve wasn't stuck. Everything was good, so I put the valvecover back on with a new gasket (cork is what was shipped to me) and got it all hooked back up.

Success! It fired right up with no trouble. Not sure why the rod banana'd itself in the first place on the exhaust side... any ideas? Could the fact that the oil was overfilled have caused it?

Now the only problem is I've got a pretty bad leak from the valvecover, right at the corner of cylinder 6, on the passenger side. I need to go back over the gasket with some high temp sealant or something.
Author:  ceej [ Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:49 am ]
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Check to make sure the bolt holes in the valve cover are flat. After they've been torqued down a few times, they will bulge into the gasket, and won't seal properly. The valve cover can be straightened with a small ballpean hammer and a block of wood to back it up.

Check to make sure you didn't capture a wire under the corner. I've seen that happen. Won't seal worth poop if that happens. :shock:

Tighten the valve cover bolts down with a nut driver, not a ratchet. Even so, don't blast them down. It's far too easy to over tighten them and cause leaks.

2¢

CJ
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:10 am ]
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Great Stuff or 3M weather strip adhesive on the valve cover side of the gasket.Give it plenty of time to set. Then wipe wheel bearing grease on the bottom side. Old air cooled VW tech.

Is this a solid lifter motor?
Author:  dc [ Sun Jan 13, 2013 3:04 pm ]
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Quote:
Great Stuff or 3M weather strip adhesive on the valve cover side of the gasket.Give it plenty of time to set. Then wipe wheel bearing grease on the bottom side. Old air cooled VW tech.

Is this a solid lifter motor?
Nope, it is a hydraulic lifter motor. Thanks for the input.


Yeah, my brother and I may have over-tightened them a bit. I'll go through it again more carefully.
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