I would suggest: 1) Confirm that your timing/TDC marks are accurate, 2)then mark 0*-TDC with bright paint, 3) watch the marks with a timing light while someone else cranks the eng.

That way you can KNOW that timing is where it should be.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

I have Cranked & cranked & cranked, set TDC so many times I can do it with my eyes closed(not really!), and I have checked for fuel and fire over and over. I get a spark, but not what I would call a strong spark. I am going to get a new coil tomorrow if they have one at Napa,or order one.
The piston comes up with "0" on the HB,valve seem to be just right, rotor seems to be aligned correctly,but it just won't run(yet).
I set the adjustment on the bottom of the dist. in the center, then I moved it extreme both directions.The engine sounds better turning over with it in the center. I also had a non-mechaniclly inclined person watch me as I went through the TDC timing procedure reading out of the manual what I should do,to no avail. Maybe tomorrow?

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1964 Dart GT

Your missing something simple, what are the points set at? how is the condenser? Concentrate on getting a nice hot spark for now. Then dry the motor out, it's probably badly flooded by now.

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

Points: I think .020, I am at work right now, I'll double check tonight.
Condenser: I am going to replace it when I replace the coil.
Everything worked perfectly before the rebuild, that is why I am having trouble understanding what I am missing.

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1964 Dart GT

(1) Plugs wires in the right order?
(2) Distributor gear damaged?
(3) Large vacuum leak somewhere?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

1.) Yes, 99% sure, I will double check.
2.) No Damage, look fine, turn while cranking engine.
3.) Example? I have the line off the dist. plugged.

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1964 Dart GT

Carburetor base gasket leaking, bad seal between intake and head, PCV hose damage or not plugged in. Those are the usual culprits of a vacuum leak big enough to prevent an engine starting.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The Carburetor base gasket is good.
The seal between intake and head is new, but I did see a puff of exhaust come out of the # 4 exhaust area where it should be sealed(Crappy FRAM gasket, didn't have a Remflex when I ordered!)
PVC hose damage or not plugged in
I have been cranking the engine with the valve cover off, so the PCV hose has not been plugged in! Would that really keep it from starting?

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1964 Dart GT

Possibly. At this point we are all grasping at straws as to why your motor isn't starting, so it is time to look at the odd culprits. The PCV is a fairly large metered air "leak." If all else is in good shape, a motor will usually run if the valve cover is off and the PCV isn't plugged in. However, if there is another vacuum leak on the motor (and it sounds like you possibly have one between the manifolds and the head), then adding the PCV air leak to the mix could conceivably keep the engine from starting.

If all you are trying to do is get the engine started, remove the PCV hose from the carb and cover the PCV nipple on the carb with a vacuum cap or some other air tight fitting. Alternatively, put a couple of layers of masking tape over the end of the PCV valve so it is airtight.

I would also replace the manifold to head gasket or at least loosen the manifolds and reseal them to the head and to each other. It sounds like you have a combination of leaks form the PCV and the manifold to head union. I have never had problems sealing with a Fel-Pro gasket, by the way. I save Remflex for the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe junction.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I'll get everything plugged up when I get home tonight. I did get the Remflex gasket for the exhaust flange hook-up, but the intake/exhaust were backordered. I planned to switch it out when I went to the Super-Six setup, but I may need to take care of it earlier. Thanks Reed!

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1964 Dart GT

Remember, I am not guaranteeing that the PCV valve is your problem. In all honesty, an unplugged PCV valve usually won't make an engine not start. However, if there are other vacuum leaks on the engine, then an unplugged PCV valve can be the tipping point of the engine running poorly to the engine not running. Try loosening all the manifold hardware and then resealing the manifolds following the proper procedure.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed - I'd never hold anyone thats helping me to anything, I really appreciate the input!-Dan

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1964 Dart GT

Christmas Miracle!
The car is running! Not sure what it was, but I replaced the coil & condenser and I put on another starter(from a parts car),as the original starter crapped out on me. Not perfectly smooth(my timing light burned out)and alittle bit of an exhaust leak, but I am happy! -Thanks for all the input everyone!

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1964 Dart GT

A miracle, indeed, Dan! Congratulations, but I think you (and we) have been chasing our collective tails.

I think it's your T.D.C. "tool"!!

A broken off CHOPSTICK?? With all the cheap chinese junk this once proud nation is gobbling up, you gotta stuff chinese stuff way into a once faithful ol' MOPAR.
I mean WTF, huh?? Addin' insult to injury! And that goes double if there was a little dab of moogoogaipan on the chopstick.

ATB and a Merry Christmas to all

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Actually I switched out the chopstick for a paint brush handle(better taper), but it is still made in China
The TDC tool works very well for watching the movement of the piston.

Sad thing is,the NAPA coil I bought is also made in China


feliz navidad

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1964 Dart GT