Slant Six Forum :: Rebuilding my Carter BBD

My Carters take a ride on the stationary belt sander to true up the top of the bowl, and the bowl top. Set them together without a gasket and look for the gaps.

Can I use copper RTV for a bit until I get the real fix?

Nicholas, if you look two pages back in the list, to '78 6 cyl truck, you'll find: 75-2229 Metering rod (.065 X .057) (8152, 53)

Adjusting the rods up and down with the screw on the vacuum piston, will move the transition between the thicker and thinner part of the rod, up or down in the jet. Some cars are plagued with a serious 'bog', if you're car have such tendencies when you test drive with a fully hot engine, adjustment of the piston/rod height in small increments either way, may fix that specific problem. After setting vacuum piston to it's proper initial clearance according to the shop manual, you can then turn the screw just a little at a time, with test drives in between. Count the turns, in which direction, and write them down.

on my supposselly "bitchen 60's rebuild carb" i bought with a sloppy shaft i needed to get fixed, also had bannana shapped top. i had to put it on a peice of glass and sand paper, took me a while, but all the sealing surfaces are 100% flat. a few ears were too far down to go any further.

Nice visit today, hopefully you retained some of the download...

If the surface looks uneven, you can use a smooth/flat block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around it and move back and forth with even strokes to get it flattened (if you feel your motion is uneven- sand the surface one way for 2-3 strokes then flip the body around 180 from the previous position for 2-3, and so on until it's "even"

Nicholas, a couple of tips:
After you mount the carburetor back on the engine, and after all carb adjustments are made, you must also adjust the kickdown stay where it attaches to the auto transmission.

RTV is not gas resistent

Venturi cluster screw part no. Trucks got 101-639 Cars 101-569 or 101-579. What number on yours?

The timing fluctuates from 12 BTDC and 14 BTDC. Is that a bad sign?

do I need to worry about replacing the gaskets now that the carb has been on for the week?

Author:	nicholas482109 [ Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:51 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: My Carters take a ride on the stationary belt sander to true up the top of the bowl, and the bowl top. Set them together without a gasket and look for the gaps. I can see why, I have pretty large spaces when mounting the air horn to the main body. I'm not sure what to do, it's not even close to sealing with the gasket. Can I use copper RTV for a bit until I get the real fix?

Author:	olafla [ Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:12 pm ]
Post subject:
Nicholas, if you look two pages back in the list, to '78 6 cyl truck, you'll find: 75-2229 Metering rod (.065 X .057) (8152, 53) Same BBD carb but with different number, same rods with sligthly different diameters, same .086 jets. Used on California trucks, manual and auto transmission. Maybe somone swapped the whole carb in the past, or just used the parts from it. Straighten the rods and use them, jets look OK. Adjusting the rods up and down with the screw on the vacuum piston, will move the transition between the thicker and thinner part of the rod, up or down in the jet. Some cars are plagued with a serious 'bog', if you're car have such tendencies when you test drive with a fully hot engine, adjustment of the piston/rod height in small increments either way, may fix that specific problem. After setting vacuum piston to it's proper initial clearance according to the shop manual, you can then turn the screw just a little at a time, with test drives in between. Count the turns, in which direction, and write them down. Olaf

Author:	kielbasa [ Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:17 pm ]
Post subject:
on my supposselly "bitchen 60's rebuild carb" i bought with a sloppy shaft i needed to get fixed, also had bannana shapped top. i had to put it on a peice of glass and sand paper, took me a while, but all the sealing surfaces are 100% flat. a few ears were too far down to go any further.

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:21 pm ]
Post subject:	No...
Quote: Can I use copper RTV for a bit until I get the real fix? Nice visit today, hopefully you retained some of the download... If the surface looks uneven, you can use a smooth/flat block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around it and move back and forth with even strokes to get it flattened (if you feel your motion is uneven- sand the surface one way for 2-3 strokes then flip the body around 180 from the previous position for 2-3, and so on until it's "even". -D.Idiot

Author:	olafla [ Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:34 pm ]
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Nicholas, a couple of tips: After you mount the carburetor back on the engine, and after all carb adjustments are made, you must also adjust the kickdown stay where it attaches to the auto transmission. Also, check that all stays, and the wire from pedal to carb, move freely, are free of damages, and that clips don't snag on anything. Don't lube with oil on any moving parts under the hood, that will only collect dust and dirt. Olaf

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Rebuilding my Carter BBD https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51388	Page 2 of 3

Author:	Rug_Trucker [ Sun Mar 17, 2013 6:16 am ]
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RTV is not gas resistent.

Author:	kielbasa [ Sun Mar 17, 2013 11:25 am ]
Post subject:
This was on peice of glass and sand paper taped to it. Trick is circular motion and spin the part 90 degrees every so often for best finish.

Author:	matv91 [ Sun Mar 17, 2013 11:35 am ]
Post subject:
Venturi cluster screw part no. Trucks got 101-639 Cars 101-569 or 101-579. What number on yours?

Author:	nicholas482109 [ Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:56 pm ]
Post subject:
Sorry for the delay with an update, I had a hectic weekend trying to find the daylight to get everything working. I honed the carb with 120 grit pretty well. It was hard to just slap the air horn on the paper since there is a part that sticks out over the accelerator pump slot about .25" passed the face that meets with the main body. The resulting material loss meant I needed 2 shorter bolts which I got from an Ace Hardware. I got the carb back in just before sunset last night. Unfortunately I had a hard time adjusting the idle by ear and decided to not take the car to work. Quote: Nicholas, if you look two pages back in the list, to '78 6 cyl truck, you'll find: 75-2229 Metering rod (.065 X .057) (8152, 53) Adjusting the rods up and down with the screw on the vacuum piston, will move the transition between the thicker and thinner part of the rod, up or down in the jet. Some cars are plagued with a serious 'bog', if you're car have such tendencies when you test drive with a fully hot engine, adjustment of the piston/rod height in small increments either way, may fix that specific problem. After setting vacuum piston to it's proper initial clearance according to the shop manual, you can then turn the screw just a little at a time, with test drives in between. Count the turns, in which direction, and write them down. Thanks again Olafla. I looked through the BBD manual for that part number but I was so fixated it was a V8 part I must have missed what was right in front of me. As for the "bog", it happens almost exclusively while taking off, about 75% of the time. I can avoid it by accelerating slowing but only sometimes. It feels like it 'trips' over itself. when installing the vacuum pump I properly set the clearance but forgot how many turns in I had to go back so I nervously backed out 3/4 of a turn. Should I set it back to 0.035" gap and adjust out from there? This bog also happened before the rebuild when it had broken tabs on the lifter arm, I amrunning it with the lifter arm from a 318 carb. D.Idiot said he has heard of people running their's with a 318 BBD with no issues but I don't know how that translates to running a Super Six BBD with the 318 arm. I JUST remembered I never properly set the opening of the vent to the proper gap. I really should get a T scale to double check all my initial measurements. Quote: on my supposselly "bitchen 60's rebuild carb" i bought with a sloppy shaft i needed to get fixed, also had bannana shapped top. i had to put it on a peice of glass and sand paper, took me a while, but all the sealing surfaces are 100% flat. a few ears were too far down to go any further. The glass is a good idea to test for flatness, I wish I had a pane around to test it on. Quote: Nice visit today, hopefully you retained some of the download... If the surface looks uneven, you can use a smooth/flat block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around it and move back and forth with even strokes to get it flattened (if you feel your motion is uneven- sand the surface one way for 2-3 strokes then flip the body around 180 from the previous position for 2-3, and so on until it's "even" It was a nice visit, thank you again for the help! I did just this with 120 grit, I am pretty sure it worked. An employee at Knecht's told me I could spray carb cleaner or starting fluid at the seals to see if the RPMs jump, indicating a leak. I have yet to do this though. Quote: Nicholas, a couple of tips: After you mount the carburetor back on the engine, and after all carb adjustments are made, you must also adjust the kickdown stay where it attaches to the auto transmission. I'm not 100% positive as to where this connection is YET. How do I adjust it? Quote: RTV is not gas resistent I learned that in time, but have you heard of Hymolar sealant? I found it after some research, that is supposed to be fuel resistant. Quote: Venturi cluster screw part no. Trucks got 101-639 Cars 101-569 or 101-579. What number on yours? I will check this out the next time I open it up which should be this weekend at the latest. Phew... This a long post, almost finished So the current state of the carburetor is that it's in my car and doesn't die on idle since the adjustments I made tonight. I purchased a craftsman digital timing gun and was able to get it to around 750, but man it idles rough. It did before and still does. It has a nasty exhaust leak, needs valve clearances to be adjusted and probably timing adjustment and new wires. I'm not sure what is causing this. To set the fast idle I removed the hose to the choke diaphragm so it would stay up, set it to the proper location on the fast idle cam and made the adjustment to 1600 rpm. I have no idea if this was the correct way to do it, the system that engages the choke really confuses me. Once I reassembled the air cleaner and put all the hoses back I had to bump the idle back up from 600 to 750. I took it for a spin and it seemed to run well enough (clunky idle and bog on take off still). Possibly eating tons of gas though. I'm going to take it to work tomorrow and get in early so I can adjust the mixture with my vacuum gauge plugged in after the morning drive warm up. Thanks for all the help so far everyone!

Author:	Rug_Trucker [ Mon Mar 18, 2013 11:35 pm ]
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Hylomar, I call it black berry juice. I have painted the top of gasket that goes between the main body and the throttle plate. Just in case the jet well plugs leaked. I wouldn't use it on the top. If you sanded it some, no leaking before you disassembled it? You should be OK. When I sand the top and bowl I put Vaseline or silicone grease in the jet wells to keep out the dust.

Author:	nicholas482109 [ Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:10 pm ]
Post subject:	Holy Crap
So after 3 days of this car dying at red lights, shaking my doors like crazy (bought a T50 bit to adjust the striker) I finally got it running well. I put new plugs and wires in it yesterday and adjusted the timing today after work. I was glad to discover I have a 1/2" hold down bolt on my distributor. The timing fluctuates from 12 BTDC and 14 BTDC. Is that a bad sign? I started tinkering with the mixture and idle and eventually couldn't even get it to start and started getting frustrated since my adjustments were not working. Then BAM it fires up and runs smoooth. Holding an idle in neutral at 780 rpm and 580 in reverse. It used to jump around +/- 80 rpm just a couple days ago and couple hardly stay alive at 700 in R. Engine barely rattles and rpms hardly move 10 rpm. Man what a difference, not quite sure how I got to the sweet spot but I know the mixture screws are 5 half turns out from finger tight in with the idle at 780rpm in N with the distributor and EGR hoses pulled and plugged. The choke has been giving me trouble all week, reading through the BBD manual I realized I did almost none of the adjustments for it. I hope it doesn't give me trouble tomorrow morning. I'm going to take it back out this weekend and finish my adjustments. I do have one other question, do I need to worry about replacing the gaskets now that the carb has been on for the week? Again, thanks everyone for the help. I am excited to know my time and gunk stained hands were for something.

Author:	Mroldfart2u [ Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:20 am ]
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The 2* sounds like timing chain slack, Not for sure if its to much or not for normal usage... Others will chime I am sure... No need to change gaskets..... Sounds like you are getting it dialed to me.... MRO.....

Author:	olafla [ Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:39 am ]
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Try to get a workshop manual for the car, rockauto and others have them. It will be a great help in setting up the car as you want . Quote: The timing fluctuates from 12 BTDC and 14 BTDC. Is that a bad sign? That doesn't sound alarming to me, but some other members may have a different opinion on that. It's difficult to say why, you may have a worn distributor shaft, slack springs for the centrifugal weights inside the distributor, worn distributor drive gear, but a worn timing chain is the most likely reason. Maybe it is a combination of a little bit of each, after all your engine is not exactly new! If you turn the engine back anf forth by the fan, with the distributor cap off, you can see if the slack is severe by keeping an eye on the balancer's timing marks. I have at least 8 degrees slack in one engine myself, at idle the marks jump all over the place, so it's ready for a new timing chain. You should consider doing a recurve of the distributor, our member bigslant6fan sell spring kits for recurving. There is lots of info in the engine FAQ. Quote: do I need to worry about replacing the gaskets now that the carb has been on for the week? Only if they leak. Also, for the sake of driveability, you should try to set the choke pulloff adjustment as exact as you can, it is one of the main reasons for having trouble with stalling/dying engine when pulling up to a red light. Olaf

Author:	Rug_Trucker [ Fri Mar 22, 2013 10:59 am ]
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Not knowing the idle of the top of my head....780 maybe on the verge of kicking in the advance weights. Old motor, slop everywhere.

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Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:52 am ]
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Rug_Trucker is right on! After doing a recurve at 800 rpm my weights start to swing out and the mechanical timing kicks in. My factory sticker says to set the idle a 750. In gear is 650 rpm. The ported vacuum also starts to kick in over 750 rpm. So, back your idle down a hair and the timing should stabilize.