Some "free advice"... (take it for what it is worth...)

Do the valve adjustment first, then do the tune-up.
It just takes one tight valve to make a 225 idle like crap and if that is the current situation, the engine will still idle poorly, after you do a tune-up.

You can do your tune-up frist, but don't be fustrated if that does not improve idle quality... just go right into a valve lash check, as a next step.
DD

Alright Tune up is complete!
But I discussed this with DusterIdiot, I notice that my timing needs to be adjusted also. Now I can adjust with Distributor and Throttle on carb. But I am unsure how to do a valve lash I have read other post on here regarding the same thing but its confusing, I found this video on youtube, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50fnm--prrE
but I don't understand what's he is doing with the wrench on the springs.
Is there a better video or manual on this. I have a 74 service manual on CD for my Scamp but I couldn't find anything on this as well.

My Scamp does run better, especially since previous owner had Autolite's sparkplugs in there. but my exhaust is still shooting black gunk out the tail pipes (carb mixture issue, cant figure out how to adjust properly with the weber carb).
Other than that Scamp running great, its just I have to keep flip-flopping between my Scamp and my 68 Chevelle to which I just finished the tune up as well on. and the Chevelle also has a timing issue.
So if I can figure out how to do a valve lash or adjustment both vehicles I presume will finally be squared away.
Thanks
Van Leer

_________________
Don't worry everyone its just a dry heat!

74 Plymouth Scamp
68 Chevelle Malibu
11 Dodge Challenger R/T
14 Dodge Ram 1500

That is member THOR (non-practicing at the moment).

Valve lash, is basically setting the idle as low as it can go without stalling.

He is putting a feeler gauge between the rocker tip and valve stem (you kind of drag it through), if it goes through like it was sliding through air it's wayyy too loose. If it wont' go through it's too tight. You use a 3/8 wrench, or ratchet and socket or wobbly and socket on the adjuster screws at the push rod side of the rocker to loosen or tighten the lash (gap)....(righty-tighty/lefty loosey)....it just takes a little tweak of the wrist to change the gap a couple thou, it will be a little hard with the wrench bouncing up and down a few hundred times a minute...

The best way to go is do one set so you don't have to swap feeler gauges every cylinder, then do the other set (do all the intakes at .010, then do the exhausts at .020). The feeler gauge should have a little resistance if lashed correctly, much like a warm knife cutting through a refrigerated cube of butter.

You will notice that as the lash changes the engine may change rpm (if too tight the idle will get lumpy and may stall the engine).

Once you are completed, button up the valve cover and redial in your proper idle speed and it should be good to go.

Alright I'll give it a shot, just waiting till after done with Chevelle first, got to do valve gaskets, water pump, wirelooms, and temp switch etc. As soon as I'm done with this going back to Scamp.
Thanks for the info DusterIdiot , from what you told me doesn't sound to hard.
Thanks
Van Leer

_________________
Don't worry everyone its just a dry heat!

74 Plymouth Scamp
68 Chevelle Malibu
11 Dodge Challenger R/T
14 Dodge Ram 1500