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| Dead Lancer... https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54687 |
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| Author: | Robuluxe [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 6:22 pm ] |
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Nah -- it's a 3-on-the-tree. I'm figuring at this point that it's either the ignition switch, or the wiring (unless the 2-terminal relay is non-functional in a car calling for a 1-terminal relay, but my understanding thus far is that the 2nd terminal on the 2-terminal is for an automatic's neutral safety switch, so, unused, it shouldn't make any difference). If it's the ignition switch, I could deal with that. But wiring is a mystery to me thus far, and needing the car for work and such means that, not having fixed it myself today, I have to have it towed to the shop and rent a car. And the door is still broken. Sigh. |
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| Author: | valiant effort [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:11 pm ] |
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neutral saftety switch maybe? |
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| Author: | Robuluxe [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:51 pm ] |
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There isn't one on this car -- it's a manual. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 8:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Um... |
Quote: There isn't one on this car -- it's a manual.
Manuals have to have one or you would be able leave it in 1st, crank the car put a hole in the garage door with it if you forgot to engage the clutch...Typically, it is either a clutch interlink switch at the pedal (it won't start unless you depress the pedal...it also won't start if the switch goes bad)...or the switch at the back of the tranny... The early relay's up through about the mid-60's had the contact on the relay that would be for the neutral safety switch connected to the housing to ground it out, if you got a late relay, and it has a lower spade pin it will need a wire run to the body and screwed to it, or if the tranny does have a switch instead of a plug, it needs to be wired in. |
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| Author: | Fopar [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 8:46 pm ] |
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Like D.I. says the 4th conector should be grounded as the neutral start switch would ground it, if not it will not start. Richard |
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| Author: | Robuluxe [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 8:52 pm ] |
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OK -- there were four wires connecting to the relay: -- two large wires with ring ends slipping over a single large screw and tightened down via a nut -- one wire with a spade-type end fastened under a screw -- one yellow wire crimped onto one of the blade terminals That was what came off the original, and how I put it all back on. The only difference between the original and the replacement was that I mistakenly bought a two-blade, rather than one-blade relay. Should that be a problem? If not, is it likely the ignition switch, or, more dreaded, suddenly faulty wiring? |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:30 pm ] |
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DI: Quote: Manuals have to have one or you would be able leave it in 1st, crank the car put a hole in the garage door with it if you forgot to engage the clutch...
Later produced manual transmission cars have those infernal safety switches, but not a 1960's era ride. My 67 Dart of yesteryear did not have one, and that starter would propel the car just fine in first gear.
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| Author: | 1930 [ Mon Feb 24, 2014 2:49 am ] |
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Quote: DI:
Not all of them, my 1986 truck with slant has no neutral switch and will of course start in gear. Never equipped originally.
Quote: Manuals have to have one or you would be able leave it in 1st, crank the car put a hole in the garage door with it if you forgot to engage the clutch...
Later produced manual transmission cars have those infernal safety switches, but not a 1960's era ride. My 67 Dart of yesteryear did not have one, and that starter would propel the car just fine in first gear. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | Read the quote... |
Quote: Not all of them, my 1986 truck with slant has no neutral switch and will of course start in gear. Never equipped originally.
My quote says "CARS"...not trucks or vehicles, after the early 80's most A-833OD and the NP435 may not be equipped with one, since the clutch interlock on the pedal set is supposed to take care of it...Quote: Later produced manual transmission cars have those infernal safety switches
Hence this comment "The early relay's up through about the mid-60's had the contact on the relay that would be for the neutral safety switch connected to the housing to ground it out." I've seen late 60's cars with the safety switch (1968/69), and I believe it also incorporates the reverse light switch like it's 70's counter part.-D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Doc [ Mon Feb 24, 2014 8:41 am ] |
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Quote: OK -- there were four wires connecting to the relay:
As already noted... you will need to ground the extra spade connector to get the relay to function.-- two large wires with ring ends slipping over a single large screw and tightened down via a nut -- one wire with a spade-type end fastened under a screw -- one yellow wire crimped onto one of the blade terminals That was what came off the original, and how I put it all back on. The only difference between the original and the replacement was that I mistakenly bought a two-blade, rather than one-blade relay. Should that be a problem? If not, is it likely the ignition switch, or, more dreaded, suddenly faulty wiring? (look at your old muanual trans relay and you should see the the factory has that position grounded, to the relay's outer metel case) DD |
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| Author: | Robuluxe [ Wed Feb 26, 2014 12:52 pm ] |
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An update… Got the proper starter relay, and a new ignition switch. Put the relay in, pulled the dash fascia off to get to the ignition switch and noticed it was a little loose. Tightened it up, made sure all was connected securely, re-attached the battery positive, and voila! LIVING LANCER. Thanks all for the help. My wife is impressed... |
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| Author: | 75valiant [ Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:32 pm ] |
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your door button is likely the result of a broken clip. you have to pull the door panel to inspect. replacements are (sometimes) available. had the same problem on my 75. i used the clip out of a chrysler newport to fix it! |
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