Sean,
Yes, I used to buy the FelPro #60274 an it seems to have been replaced with FelPro #60272. I have both boxes and gasket in my hand. I modify them so the vacuum holes line up which go to the port for the air door.
I run two of them. One below the heat deflector and one above it. It really helps a lot to reduce heat soak.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The carb is installed and she started right up! Drove around the block and no problems.

The curb idle was 1500 rpm so I came down to 700. That was the first adjustment. Then I played with the mixture screw for 2 freaking hours. If I turn it in, clockwise, the motor will die. Is that rich or lean going clockwise? If I catch it before she dies, when I back it out, the RPMs peak after a couple turns and then backing out the screw has no effect. I backed the screw out the whole way and then she stalled, but there was no change until the screw fell out. Also, there is a miss at idle at all times.

What is the proper adjustment procedure for the curb idle/mixture screw? Please don't refer me to a manual. How do you do it?

What is a good starting point on the timing?

Any replies are appreciated.

Drove to work. Flat spot off idle. Less torque now all around it seems. Miss at idle.

Turning clockwise you close the idle hole, you get less gas (leaner Idle)
Turning the other way makes it richer, up to a point where the vacuum is not enough to pull more gas. When you remove the screw, then you have another vacuum leak, it should die.
In the two turn-effective range: is there a point where the RPM are max and then decrease? (Optimum mix)
That screw will regulate idle air-gas ratio only.
Lower power: which nozzle does it have? Same size as the older carb? Vacuum leaks?

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Lean!!!! I run mine at 2 1/2 turns out with a #56 jet.
Yep! that is the way mine acts...
Ten degrees.
Set idle at 750 rpm, check timing at 10 degrees, rest idle rpm if necessary so the throttle plates are closed.....test by there should be no vacuum at the distributor port. Adjust mixture screw for highest vacuum. I use the "T" at the pull off for the vacuum gauge. Mine came that way.....Mine reads 19" vacuum at 750 idle, 10 degrees initial. Purrs like a cat and never misses a beat. Make sure all the ports your not using are capped, like the one for the air door in the snorkel, EGR amplifier, and vent house is hooked up to the charcoal canister.

1. What jet is in yours?
2. Did you spray out all the passages before installing?
3. Sometimes there can get a bit of corrosion build up in them.
4. How strong is the pump squirt?
5. Is the float set per spec.
6. How does it look inside after removing the float bowl?
7. You may have a vacuum leak some where.....
8. What size jet do you have in your other 1920? You should have more torque over all with this design because it mixes better.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ok thanks guys. I got work to do. This is a reman carb I know nothing about.

Ok, I'm restarting this project. Right now I have sort of a baseline. The wrong (lean burn) Holley 1945 is in there now with the vacuum advance disconnected and she is running pretty nice. Also the emissions stuff is disconnected.

So the first question is the flange gasket. Correct me if I am wrong...I can used any 1-bbl gasket including a 1945 one, and the holes and alignment of the 1920 gasket does not matter. And the thicker the better.

As long as the full vacuum hole remains unblocked from the manifold to the carb base so you can run the hot air door in the snorkel.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Not to hijack thread, but I'm curious. What is the performance difference between the "economaster" and "ham radio" style 1920 throats? My 73 has the "ham radio antenna" in the throat, so I'm wondering.

Thanks.

Much better fuel mixing, better off idle response, better over all mileage and a lot more bottom end punch. Also when the engine is cold it idles smoother. When your drifting into a corner and apply power it is smooth and immediate, no lag in the transition. It is just a lot more responsive. I throw the old style on from time to time and can't believe the difference. On short hops local driving the stock style nets an average of 18 miles per gallon verses 22 mpg with the Economaster.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

<nod>
Thanks, AT...sounds like it's time for me to track one down.

The main jet has 55 and then an upside down 2.
The elevation here is a mile high.

That is a close tolerance #55. That may work out at your elevation however, I prefer a #56 at 1000 feet.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ted (here is a long-winded post)

Well I increased my understanding of carburation a lot yesterday. I was going to restart the 1920 project, but I realized the fast idle solenoid for the AC won't mount to it. So I rebuilt a 1945.

I've got 4 Holley 1945s. The original, 2 I bought from Vapex, and one I got for free off the net. The one off the net has a bowl vent solenoid so I can't use it as is. The two from Vapex have full vacuum at idle at the advance port, but are slightly different from each other. I verified this by blowing into the advance port, plugging holes, and seeing where the air came out. The original carb has no vacuum at idle. So I rebuilt it and reconnected all the vacuum hoses and emissions stuff. It's all back to stock.

What I have now is a decent running motor that stumbles at idle when I hit the brakes. And a chirpy air pump.

With an idle stumble with brakes applied, I'd be doing a vacuum check of the brake booster. (if so equipped) Even just disconnecting the vacuum line and plugging the engine side would prove that out.

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.