Slant Six Forum
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Will not start
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55548
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Author:  chargerman426 [ Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:43 pm ]
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I really don't want to but given the fact that it ran before the gasket change and now it doesn't I don't know what else could have changed.

Author:  Reed [ Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:52 pm ]
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Did you follow the correct procedure when you reinstalled the manifolds?

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/manifo ... unting.htm

Author:  chargerman426 [ Mon Jun 09, 2014 5:30 pm ]
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Yes I did.

Author:  chargerman426 [ Wed Jun 11, 2014 4:03 pm ]
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Just ordered some triangle washers so once they show up and it stops raining I'll pull the intake/exhaust again.

Author:  chargerman426 [ Wed Jun 25, 2014 4:06 pm ]
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So I was able to get the car to idle but it still dies when it dies when I put it in gear and almost dies when I hit the gas at idle. I'm guessing this might be timing related but ran out of time to work on the timing. Anything else I should look at?

Author:  Sam Powell [ Thu Jun 26, 2014 1:28 pm ]
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The sound your describing is the sound of a slant with the distrubutor 180 degrees out of time. It will kind of start, and kind of run, but not well. Maybe you have the rotor under tower number 1 one the exhaust stroke. Been there;done that.

Sam

Author:  Rick Covalt [ Thu Jun 26, 2014 1:43 pm ]
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All of your posts are describing a car that is out of time. Is it still thumping & coughing up through the carb? If you get it started have the distributor hold down loose enough so someone can turn it one way or the other. It should get better in one direction. It is possible that it is just one tooth off and you will need to remove the distributor and move it. They can run pretty crappy being one tooth off and most times there is not enough adjustment to turn the dist. to get it right.

Rick

Author:  oldskoolracer [ Thu Jun 26, 2014 2:37 pm ]
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Personally I think it still sounds like its carb related, or there is still a vac leak somewhere....

However, for the sake of it all, lets get back to ground zero... Pre-plan here... Write down firing order and dist rotation on a piece of paper and keep it on hand. This will save some confusion and keep you from double guessing yourself. (1,5,3,6,2,4 and clockwise rotation)

Pull the wires off the cap, but leave them on the plugs.
Pull the distributor out.
Bring it to TDC on COMPRESSION*** <---most important here.
Now on the dist, remove the cap and mark the dist housing right below the tower for wire #1.

Now that you did that, and the engine is 100% for sure at TDC compression on cyl #1 its time to restab the distributor.

Hold the distributor and rotor together with the rotor aimed right at the mark you made under tower #1. Now as you put it in start with the vac advance pod as close to the engine as you can.

Still holding the rotor in place, do not let it move on its own, drop the dist down into its hole and slightly turn the whole unit clockwise as it drops in.

If done right, the dist will seat all the way in, rotor still pointing to your mark you made, and it should be about mid-way in its adjustment range (meaning you have equal movement both clockwise and counter-clockwise)

Your now at TDC with 0* timing. Now you can reinstall your cap and plug wires in the correct order, going clockwise starting with wire #1 connected to the tower that you marked earlier...

IF YOUR PROBLEM IS TIMING RELATED this will get it started. If it still doesnt start you need to look else-where. Hopefully this is enough (and not too confusing) to get you going again. Good luck!

Author:  Sam Powell [ Thu Jun 26, 2014 3:18 pm ]
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I prefer to put markers on the wires, 1-6, and pull the wires from the plugs, leaving them on the cap. That assumes it was in order to start with. Then simply plug and play with the numbers to the plugs when reinstalling the cap. It involves far less thinking and seeing.

Sam

Author:  oldskoolracer [ Thu Jun 26, 2014 3:29 pm ]
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Quote:
I prefer to put markers on the wires, 1-6, and pull the wires from the plugs, leaving them on the cap. That assumes it was in order to start with. Then simply plug and play with the numbers to the plugs.

Sam
Yea and Im just assuming theyre not right so Im trying to lead him into starting fresh and carefully paying attention to what wire goes where and the dist is not getting moved when reinstalled.

I prefere your route as well, but either way it sounds like it all needs to be gone through again.

Author:  chargerman426 [ Fri Jun 27, 2014 7:45 pm ]
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So when i did the tune up I numbered the wires as I took them off the plugs (leaving them hooked up to the old cap). Then just mirrored the wires onto my new cap. To find TDC I used the "finger method" where I put my finger in the #1 cylinder plug hole and had someone tap the key until i felt my finger get pushed out of the plug hole. I them lined up the #1 plug wire post on the cap with the rotor.

I'm between it being a timing thing or a carburetion issue. Since it at least ran and drove before the tune up I'm leaning more towards the timing being the issue.

Its no longer coughing thought the carb but it is making a thumping sounds a couple of times before it does fire off.

Author:  chargerman426 [ Fri Jun 27, 2014 7:47 pm ]
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Quote:
All of your posts are describing a car that is out of time. Is it still thumping & coughing up through the carb? If you get it started have the distributor hold down loose enough so someone can turn it one way or the other. It should get better in one direction. It is possible that it is just one tooth off and you will need to remove the distributor and move it. They can run pretty crappy being one tooth off and most times there is not enough adjustment to turn the dist. to get it right.

Rick
So the slant 6 can be one tooth off? I thought all dodges were either on or 180 off...

Author:  wjajr [ Sat Jun 28, 2014 3:14 am ]
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Mopar V8’s have a slotted distributor drive that connects to a shaft driven by camshaft, can be installed spot on or 180 degrees out.

A slant six distributor is driven by a nylon helix gear directly off of the camshaft. I never counted how many teeth it has, but must be 6 to 8 of them so the gear has to be orientated just right or the engine is out of time. To add to the fun of reinstalling the distributor, because of the helix one must turn rotor counter clock ways off of number one tower so as to allow for clock ways rotation of shaft when being stalled.

Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Jun 28, 2014 3:35 am ]
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Quote:
So the slant 6 can be one tooth off?
Yes, and that is why I said to get it started and then move the distributor until it sounds better. Then you will know which way to move the distributor.

Rick

Author:  chargerman426 [ Mon Jun 30, 2014 5:11 pm ]
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Got the Dart running!!! So I was off one tooth on the distributor and a small vacuum leak. Got her idling around 750 and base timing around 5* advanced. Start great now!!! I still think my accelerator pump is acting up but other than that its running great.

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