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| I should be going faster! At least I want too. https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60333 |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Thu Nov 24, 2016 6:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
275/50/15 Nitto Drag radials. 26" tall I think |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Thu Nov 24, 2016 7:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | x2 |
Quote: 275/50/15 Nitto Drag radials. 26" tall I think
Correct, I run the same drag radials, and the true diameter is closer to 25.83"... but once they get heated up it's about 26" or so... they are a good tire... but you have to have a wheel well to run them.
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| Author: | Dave M [ Mon Jan 16, 2017 12:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | carb size |
Andrew Want to try out a 600 Holley ? I've got one if you want to try it ? |
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| Author: | flathead49 [ Tue Jan 17, 2017 8:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm good Dave. I have tried both a Holley 600 and 650 in the past. I like the 450 on there now. Andrew |
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| Author: | flathead49 [ Tue Feb 14, 2017 7:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Completed relocating the spring hangers and installed a set of SS Springs. Did a full wheel tub and will be running Hoosier 225/50-15 Drag Radials. The Mopar 8 3/4 is narrowed and installed so are the Competition Engineering shocks. I fabricated a set of slapper bars (because I always thought they looked cool) and also fabricated a anti roll bar. All that's left for the rear are ordering the narrowed axles and Wilwood Dynalite disc brake kit. I'm running a full spool and 3.55 gears. I know I need at least 3.91 but I'm going update them later this year. I've decided to run this engine as is and I'm working on a nitrous long rod replacement engine Andrew |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Tue Feb 14, 2017 7:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sounds like great progress, Andrew! You can go to a bigger tire, if needed, but those will likely be fine. Not sure anti-roll bar will be needed, if you want to cut down complexity... Lou |
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| Author: | flathead49 [ Thu Jun 01, 2017 9:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Finally finished Dart Vader and took it out to PIR last night. With no engine mods this year and just the suspension, rear end, and tires I'm running a bit quicker. Previous Best (Race gas) 60': 2.136 330': 5.966 1/8: 9.160 @ 76.82 MPH Current Best (92 octane) 60': 2.058 330': 5.840 1/8: 9.029 @ 76.89 MPH It's a bit hesitant off the line and the engine is dieseling when shut off. Haven't had these issues in the past with 92 octane. I'm running 32 degrees total advance and I think the plugs are gapped at 36. I'll check the plugs today to see what they look like. Any suggestions? Andrew |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Thu Jun 01, 2017 11:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Id try 2 degrees less advance. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Jun 01, 2017 1:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Or even try 4 or 6 deg less advance. Do 2 runs at each timing setting to get backups and see how it changes. Do you have a WB O2 sensor in the car, like this one? Fantastic for mixture tuning. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-4110 I only use AEM in my cars - rock solid. Lou |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Thu Jun 01, 2017 5:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | I'd... |
Quote: It's a bit hesitant off the line and the engine is dieseling when shut off. Haven't had these issues in the past with 92 octane. I'm running 32 degrees total advance and I think the plugs are gapped at 36. I'll check the plugs today to see what they look like. Any suggestions?
Make sure that you have disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged it for racing... Mechanical advance should not be over 30 degrees total for this task.Hesitation off the line and dieseling can point to a lean out.... dieseling can indicate too much advance, hot carbon deposits in the chamber causing pre-ignition, but most likely your throttle plates are not fully seated when closed (or an air leak someplace). If you find no leak at the carb base or manifold, you might make sure that your acc. pump shot is not delayed in coming on when the throttle lever is pulled, if the plates don't fully seat you may need a stronger return spring...... |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Jun 02, 2017 4:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
How much spread between initial advance and final mechanical advance? (vac adv disco'ed) Lou |
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| Author: | flathead49 [ Fri Jun 02, 2017 8:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Not sure what the spread is between initial and final timing. I'll check that today. I noticed that the distributor cap coil plug in was fried. Time for new cap and maybe wires. I pulled the carb and I did notice that the secondary plates where not fully closed. I'll look at that a bit closer. I pulled it off to remove the divider plate that's installed in the manifold just to see if it actually makes any difference. The plugs looked ok, maybe a little rich. Others have noticed that there is a bit of black smoke off the line. I've installed a size smaller squirter in the secondaries. Might head to the track tomorrow to do some test and tune and play with the timing (the church kicked me out of their parking lot). I also installed a manual valve body in the transmission and need to play with different shift points. Right now I'm shifting at 4800 rpms. Andrew |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Jun 02, 2017 9:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wow, that is shifting low. Are you sure your tach is set to 6 cyl? You are doing very well if you can shift at 4800 and still run 9.0s in the 1/8th. I would try the (total mech adv) timing changes first, then proceed to other things. You can put in a different dist later, but full mech advance will be the main thing that matters if you really have a 2500 RPM converter. You can mess with advance spread later. Basically, you need to change exactly one thing at a time or you won't learn much about what will make (and keep) your car faster. Lou |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Fri Jun 02, 2017 5:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Make sure that you have disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged it for racing
What is the reason for this? I think Lou and Greg mentioned that to me at the Mason Dixon race when I was having troubles. I have always just left mine hooked up knowing that it is not really doing anything at WOT. But it sounds like it may be causing some problem that I should know about. Help me understand.  Thanks |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Fri Jun 02, 2017 5:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If the carb is too small, it becomes a restriction at high rpm (A bad air cleaner setup can do it too). With the restriction, you get a vacuum at high rpm and then vacuum advance at WOT.................... |
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