F 225 T . 3 5 and then a German cross

F: 1970 model year
225: Engine displacement
T: Truck engine (or Trenton engine plant, but probably Truck engine)
3 5: Engine built on March 5th, 1970 (which makes your 2-70 bearings plausible)
Maltese Cross: One or more main and/or rod bearings 0.001" undersize originally (stamping on the crankshaft should indicate which ones, in the format M1 = № 1 main bearing, C3 = № 3 conrod bearing, etc.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the translation.
The Maltese cross could be a complication; I guess I won’t be ordering a standard bearing kit.
I pulled the main bearings and the only marks on those is a small letter “e”.

Updated my decode to point you at the crankshaft for additional stampings.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Where abouts on the crank would I find this stamping?

Should be on the middle counterweight. If you don't find it, just take care to precisely measure each rod and main journal and buy bearings accordingly.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Can you buy bearings individually sized or am I going to have to buy 2 different sets of sizes?

Usually they come as a set, but you may be able to get whatever individual pieces you might need with a want ad on here. Depends what you find when you measure all the journals!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So the rings I’m going to use are a cast ring, can anyone recommend which grit of flex hone to use as I know it’s important to match the home grit to the ring material.

So my cam is on it's way to Oregon cams for the 2016R grind; it was suggested earlier not to buy a new oil pump but to check the condition of the factory one and refurbish as neccessary; can anyone steer me in the right direction as to checking the pump and refurbishing if needed? I'm used to just changing them out on Mopar big blocks I hare rebuilt.

Review the linked article and the Factory Service Manual for SL6 oil pump inspection and rebuilding info.

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/oil-pu ... report.htm

Any year FSM with a section on the SL6 will have the info. you need.
Basically, it comes down to the clearance between the rotor parts, inside the pump.
DD

Thanks DD; I will look into it.
I have also done the oil passage clean out as per the FAQ page regarding drilling out the main bearing passages with a 5/16 bit and chamfering the bottom of the hole in the oil main; I see there is some oil pump mod stuff in that thread too so I will read up on that also.

I used a 240-grit flex hone with cast iron rings. You don't want to go any more coarse than that and could possibly go finer if the bores are still in very good shape. I lubed the hone with cheap motor oil and aimed for 45 degrees on the crosshatch pattern. For me this worked out to about 1 up-and-down pass per second at full throttle on the low speed setting of an 18v cordless drill, but make a couple passes and eyeball it yourself. Try to keep your motion at a consistent speed: a sawtooth pattern rather than a sine wave, if that makes sense.

I have used stock size bearings on a Maltese Cross-marked 225 (from 1964), but I was aiming for the loose side of the FSM specification since it was a race engine. I also checked the diameter of every journal with a borrowed dial caliper to make sure it was still within range (I was too cheap to buy an actual OD micrometer, and I'm way too lazy to use plastigage). They were all about the same, so I assume my crank was uniformly undersized; I wasn't aware that only some could be undersized, but I would definitely follow Dan's advice in looking for those stampings to confirm.

I may just be lucky, but I've been racing with a Melling aftermarket oil pump for 5 years without issue, after the car was a daily driver for ~30k miles. The camshaft in this engine is an Isky that was installed at the same time back in 2004; we threw the same camshaft and oil pump right back in when we did a ring and bearing job a few years ago. I don't know if Isky even makes Slant 6 cams anymore, but maybe they were just more careful cutting the gears than some of the aftermarket cam suppliers with known gear issues. In any case, I agree that your existing cam and oil pump gears are going to be the safest bet if they've survived this long. From everything I've read on this site, Oregon Cam will not do you wrong.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

I'm making some progress and have the head for my engine fully rebuilt.
I have a question regarding the exhaust manifold bolts. I have chased all of the bolt holes and they all go completely through into the coolant passage in behind them. What are you guys doing to ensure you dont get any coolant leakage here? Im assuming there is a specific sealant that should be used on the threads that wont affect the torquing to factory spec but will seal them up well?

Be sure and use new manifold studs and nuts (described in this thread, and install them with the appropriate thread sealant (Loctite 542 or 592). It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.