Dino oil is dinosaur oil-meaning conventional oil as opposed to synthetic.

Yep, natural refined crude oil obtained by drilling deep in earth (where the dinosaurs are buried now....) and pumping versus lab made and manufactured synthetic oil.

I switched to Mobil one 10W-30 Synthetic when i was 16 and have never looked back. Just the swap increased my slants idle oil pressure from 15 psi to 30 psi, and cruising oil press from 35 psi to 50 psi...ad i had to re-adjust my idle speed screw (picked up about 100 rpm @ idle). I also run Mobile 1 10-30 in my new dodge.

After tearing down my approx 70k mile slant (that was run on valvoline conventional for break in, approx 5k miles, and Mobile 1 10-30 after that) i found zero sludge anywhere in the engine. Head & rockers perfectly clean, oil pan & pickup perfectly clean (pickup looked brand new), no "goo" anywhere. This fact alone has made me a believer, and since cases of Mobile 1 only cost $25 at Sam's club up here (similar to costco) i dont mind spending the extra few bucks for peace of mind.

My .02

-S/6

_________________
The "Silver Bullet"
87 Ram D150

Super6, I guess I'd have to see that with my own eyes to believe it. I don't doubt one oil can be more "slippery" than another based on molecular structure and additives, but 10W-30 is 10W-30 no matter how the oil was made. I just don't see how merely switching from regular oil to synthetic while sticking with the same viscosity could have appreciably affected your oil pressure, unless the oil you drained out was severely broken down and lowering your pressure.

"DW"

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Hey..Paladin.......dino oil = dinosaur.....as in the remains of dead dinosaurs. Mineral oil, as compared to synthetics.

Sorry all, I guess I'm still old school. I believe in mineral lubes, and use Castrol GTX exclusively. Usually go with 5W-30, but have used 10W-30, and change every 3000 miles.

Roger

DW-

I would not have believed it unless i had seen it myself either, but i had just installed a mechanical oil press gauge before i switched oils and those were the numbers before/after. I was going to replace the oil pump, but ended up not needing to.

Even my new truck (2000 360) picked up about 5 psi at idle and the same at speed when i switched it to Mobile 1...but I am judging those numbers off an electrical gauge with only 3 numbers printed on it.

I guess all I can say is I am fully satisfied with Mobil 1, and every rig I ever own will get Mobile 1 Synthetic in the crank case.

Again, just my .02.

BTW--I highly suggest comparing conventional oil to synthetic oil at low temperatures (if you live in a colder climate). Conventional 5-30 has the consistency of rubber cement when it is -20*F, synthetic 10-30 still pours like it does when it is 70*F...

-S/6

I used 10w30 in my truck fora while, but the idle pressure was much lower than when using dino oil (though the highway pressure stayed the same). I upped it to 15w50 and the idle pressure is dead on now with highway pressure no higher. I agree with you 100% though on the cleanliness of synthetic. I 've had it in for only about 5 changes now and the first two times it came out black, but it's getting cleaner and cleaner now and I'm giving it longer intervals between changes. I'm at 6K miles now on this change and the oil's just starting to get dark. I love it longtime.

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Back in the80's there were repeated problems reported by users of high volume oil pumps in slants. According to Doctor Dodge the extra volume puts pressure in the system in a way that causes problems. I can't remember for sure, but I think it pushes the cam forward, (not retainer on a slant), and the distributor or oil pump gears get torn up. I wouldn't put a high volume oil pump in a slant. Just get a good stock one and put it in.

My 2 cents worth. Mobil 1 is the result of a problem the US Navy was having in the early 60's as more and more jets came into carrier service with faster landing speeds and higher loads on their landing gear, wheel bearings were subject to frequent failures. The Navy asked for an alternative lubricant and Mobil came up with a synthetic grease that eventually led to Mobil 1. I was turned onto Mobil 1 by our jet mechs at FedEx back in the 80's. I have been told that we have never had a lubrication related failure in our turbines, in literally Billions of fight hours (although lately, it appears we are switching from Mobil to another synthetic oil) As I understand it the molecular structure is more consistent in synthetics, and the additives can be better fine tuned (just as a house would be more structurally sound when built with plumb walls on a level foundation than one built on a non-level foundation) allowing for better additives to be added to the synthetics. Their must be something to this as more and more often original equipment manufacturers are spec'ing Mobil 1 in high performance or harsh environments in everything from Ex-Mark commercial mowers w/hydrostatic drives to Corvettes (Vipers too?). Back in the 80's when I started using it I had a Honda CRX that I used to autocross HARD on the weekends and drive to college during the week. Once afriend of mine and I were adjusting valve lash on our cars (he had a CRX also, although his was one year newer and had half the milage) we pulled his valve cover first and adjusted; then we pulled mine, my engine with twice as many miles was meticulously clean, very noticeably so. He switched from C@&+*%^ GTX and on subsequent checks over the next few valve adjustments his engine cleaned up also. I am a firm believer, I run it in the B-52 Crew Cab and also use the Mobil 1 synthetic grease on all of its many U-joints and other fittings, When I go through the axles, will change them over as well as tranny and transfer case. FWIW -Spin

_________________
Project B-52 Crew