Paul, last time I had to do a B&T bought new at napa. have since discovered they are obsolete and not available and the one rebuilder in LA who delt with them is out of business. When you think about it, the only commom failure is the boot detoriating and you better have a press to get that crosspin out-trust me banging on it with a drift dosen't work! Will have to adapt a late model cv boot for the job and look into the possibility of rebuilding one myself..stay tuned for further developements.....Dave (BTW have a rebuild manual for these B&T)

Here is a link to pics of my Cuda with the B&T converted to cross and roller.
http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/ujoint.htm

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanx Charrlie_S for the pictures of the conversion. My '65 is very stock and I want to avoid straying to far from that if I can. I had the original engine and head rebuilt when it was time (about 150k miles, the little old lady didn't drive it long enuf to warm it up - I was down to 6psi of oil preasure warm idle). I would have had the rear end rebuilt if needed, just to keep the stock numbers (and the 2.93 gears). I even have a collection of bolts from wrecking yards so I can put in fasteners with stock head markings when an old ones looks to ugly. Not that my car is perfectly pretty, but it looks decent - and mostly is what is was.

I actually found your pictures and instructions from some other link on this site (I do try and find things in the archives before asking questions I have saved the part numbers used in the conversion. Much thanx

Drivelines NW, near me, would convert the driveshaft for me for $340 (new front end parts including U-joint, new rear U-joint, ballanced). I actually took my driveshaft to them and they confirmed that front B&T is in good shape (looking suprized). Then he installed a new rear universal joint with the grease fitting in one of the cups (much nicer than having it in the cross) for a grand total of $28. Considering how much swearing was involved in me changing the first one under my car years ago it was a deal.

This group has been great. I have been suprized at the number of people with old Mopars from this area, in responces, and the archives while I look around. I'm thrilled with the quick and helpful responces of the whole group. With this kind of support our old Mopars will be on the road for another 30 years!

Much thanx to all!
Paul G.

P.S. - Anybody have an old Walsh-Platt (Everett WA) license plate frame or two (for top bolt attachment)? That is where my car was purchased August '65. It would be cool to restore a couple of those frames and put them around my plates.

Paul, just wanted you to be aware of that option. If you deciede to get it done, shop for a better price. My first one cost me about $180. The second one, was a "special" price, and that one included a new tube. The shop that does mine, said they will do them for other people, for $140.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I didn't know you were up here near me. I hope you have better luck with Drivelines NW, than I have had. They did one up for my truck, that cost me about that much, and it was a piece of crap. It ran out like crazy, and vibrated like a b***ard. I 've used Driveline Service, south of the train tracks here in Seattle, ever since. Talk to Gino, he's the man.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

That price is considerably more then the price quoted to me, when I had my driveshaft shortened. I paid $110 for shortening and a new rear universal. The change over from the B&T was $90 extra. I choose not to do it as the current B&T was still good. I used the Everett location for my work.

I miss Walsh Platt, they had a neat store front and a wonderful garage area. The old guys that used to run the parts counter were execellent.