Here's the "expensive" one we have;
http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/6100_a.html
Sorry, I haven't figured out the link thing yet.
If you're handy with a lathe...

Sorry again, the last post was me.
And hey, maybe I do have the link thing figured out

_________________
O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Harbor freight has a "flywheel pilot bearing removal tool" for $10 on sale but after trying to use it I can't recommend it much. It claims to be for ID diameter bushings from 1/2" to 2.5" but after having to grind on the back side of the removal jaws so they would fit inside my pilot bushing (> 1/2"), I should have been forwarned of trouble ahead. And the jaws just barely fit through the length of the bushing so in all it's a very difficult tool to use and tell if properly catching the back edge of the bushing, and either so poorly made or for a different application as to render it about useless. I tried to use it anyway and succeeded in bending the three jaws, one of which broke so I had a heck of a time just getting the tool extracted from the crank. Of course all this didn't help the bushing any, leaving a few new marks on it's inner surface so now I'm wondering if I should leave the old bushing in and take my chances or keep trying to remove it, hopefully with a better tool if I can find one. Any thoughts on that would be appreciated. Thanks.

Can you get some calipers in there to measure the bushing? It's not very precise, but you can compare it to the OD of your input shaft to estimate the amount of wear.
If it's not too far gone, polish out those fresh nicks and use it.

_________________
O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

If it bent the jaws, then you'll be moving up to a cold chisel next, the bearing's possibly seized to the walls....Last time this happened to me the grease trick didn't work and the puller didn't move it (I didn't force it either...). I used a combination of the cold chisel and a dremel tool to cut her in half and pull it out with needle nose pliers, I thien had to check the bore of the crankshaft and luckily I hadn't nicked it and the bore looked good, so I slid a new pilot in there and greased it up....


-D.Idiot

Thanks again six and D, that Assenmacher tool looks like the answer but for what it costs I think I'll try some emery cloth and see what happens. Worst case I'll have to pull everything again and buy the tool but I don't think I want to chance crank damage at this point.

FYI, I was able using a hack saw blade by hand to carefully make four opposing cuts in the bushing and pry it out in four pieces with minimal to no damage. Slow, tedious and low tech but worked fine so now assuming bushing installation goes well I'm back on track. Thanks to all who responded to my crys for help!

Steve

you're almost there....


-D.Idiot

I've searched but haven't found new OEM type 5/16" replacement bolts & lock washers for clutch cover to flywheel, other than the Dodge boys @ the crazy price of $5/bolt. So should I re-use the old stock (grade 5) bolts and washers which look OK, or would grade 5 or 8 bolts & lock washers from say Lowe's do, even though compared to the OEM bolts which appear to be 7/8" long, all I've found are 3/4" or 1". Another difference is the used OEM bolts are not threaded all the way to the bolt head but other 5/16" bolts I've seen are. Has anyone else run into this snag and what bolts & washers did you use?

Most full blown clutch kits come with all that stuff... if I find a 3 spd car in a wrecking yard, I pull those bolts as spares but you have to come up with some washers if you resurface the flywheel as the non threaded shoulder can tend to bottom out and not tighten the plate to the flywheel.
On the 10" clutch the bolts have a different head than the ones for the 9 1/4" clutch. I ended up busting one of mine when I put my slant together and was mating the tranny up outside the car...I ended up having to use a bolt that was threaded up all the way to the head on one spot with no ill effects. I do sometimes worry about the 30 year old OEM bolts being brittle and stressed too....

I used to have a list of the current part numbers for those bolts from your local dodge dealer and they weren't 'badly' priced like $5 a bolt (more like $1.25 each...), but now that things have changed they might not be available there anymore either (my local dealer hates servicing 'old car' parts anymore...)

-D.Idiot

Everything else but no bolts with the 10" clutch kit I have so I'm still scratching my head about what to use since I'm going from the 9 1/4" to the 10" clutch and I did have my flywheel turned. I'll check with the Dodge dealer again to see exactly what they sell but it's sounding like using the stock (9 1/4") clutch bolts and lock washers I have may not be an option. I see what you mean about fastening the clutch cover to a resurfaced flywheel and perchance needing more threads so I may just have to experiment and see what will work best. Do you recall what was different about the bolt heads for the 10" clutch compared to the bolts like I have that were used on the smaller clutch? Thanks D

They have a smaller head so you can get a socket on them with the larger clutch cover, also this keeps the heads from scraping the bellhousing on certain versions too...

Here are some numbers to throw at you dealer to 'cross reference':

307555 are 7/8" long
6029060 are 13/16" long and flanged (for the larger clutch housing)
6029060 are 1" long and are spec'd for the 318+ engine combo...

Although I haven't done it,yet... I hear that aircraft washers are better to 'shim' the bolts since they have a tighter tolerance on thickness than pressed standard washers...

-D.Idiot

Thanks, I'll see what the Dodge says. Aside from perhaps needing to use an extra washer because my flywheel was resurfaced, to account for the removed material, would I always need to use a split type lock washer like the stock 9 1/4" bolts have? By the way you listed the same part # for the 13/16" and 1" bolts (6029060). After re-measuring the bolts that held on the old stock 9 1/4" clutch they seem to be 3/4" long, so like I said I'll probably have to experiment to see what works best with my combination of 10" clutch and resurfaced flywheel. Thanks again and if anyone else would like to weigh in on this subject (and/or has faced and solved the same problem) please do so.

Correction, the stock 9 1/4" clutch bolts did measure 7/8" in length now that I think about it.

The 1" long 318 bolts should be P/N6029071 not "60", my bad...

good luck,

-D.Idiot