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A/C question
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9772
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Author:  Craig [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 7:45 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Quote:
(I did not approve of compressed air, it's full of water as we all know.)
:roll:

D/W
Huh? What? Are you picking on me? :?:
Here in Minnesota summer humidity, air compressor shoot out water all the time.

Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 7:59 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
(I did not approve of compressed air, it's full of water as we all know.)
:roll:

D/W
Huh? What? Are you picking on me? :?:
Here in Minnesota summer humidity, air compressor shoot out water all the time.
I don't doubt it... Scroll up and read my post where I outlined some tips... It's only "full of water" if you don't take steps to reduce it. Of course, anyone is free to use whatever pressurized gaseous substance that "floats their boat". By the way, you ain't seen summer humidity 'till you come south 'round these parts... :shock:

"DW"

Author:  Craig [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:27 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
:roll:

D/W
Huh? What? Are you picking on me? :?:
Here in Minnesota summer humidity, air compressor shoot out water all the time.
I don't doubt it... Scroll up and read my post where I outlined some tips... It's only "full of water" if you don't take steps to reduce it. Of course, anyone is free to use whatever pressurized gaseous substance that "floats their boat". By the way, you ain't seen summer humidity 'till you come south 'round these parts... :shock:

"DW"
Yea, right, one can *reduce* it but not eliminate it without a lot of expense.
:)

Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:37 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Huh? What? Are you picking on me? :?:
Here in Minnesota summer humidity, air compressor shoot out water all the time.
I don't doubt it... Scroll up and read my post where I outlined some tips... It's only "full of water" if you don't take steps to reduce it. Of course, anyone is free to use whatever pressurized gaseous substance that "floats their boat". By the way, you ain't seen summer humidity 'till you come south 'round these parts... :shock:

"DW"
Yea, right, one can *reduce* it but not eliminate it without a lot of expense.
:)
That's fine, you go on disapproving the use of compressed air, and I'll keep on using my plenty-dry-enough compressed air to blow out A/C components. Nice 3D effect, by the way! ;)

D/W

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:42 am ]
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Craig,
Am checking on some things for you. The RV-2 compressor is still available rebuilt. It is one of the few rebuilt compressors, I would consider useing. You did notice one of the problems, with using the RV-2 on a slant. The roughness and slippage. The RV-2 is like a harly davidson engine. It does not have an even "firing" pulse. so the belt and engine loading in not even. If your not concerned about staying original, I would use the Sanden compressor. It is smoother, and more efficient. Brackets sould be available in a junk yard. I am haveing a supplier check, to see if the after market still has a compressor mount and drive kit available.

Author:  Craig [ Fri Jul 16, 2004 6:00 am ]
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Thanks Charlie,
Let me know what else you can find out. There was this ugly thing in Ebay recently...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 7909617645

I can not make out much in the tiny pictures and the seller refused to send me better pictures. Any idea what it is? I have an S6 engine from a 1979 Volaré that has brackets for the C171 compressor. Is there a Sanden unit that fits that bracket?

I realize the uneven "firing" pulse of the RV2. (Kind of like a John Deere two-cylinder tractor with their 180º - 540º firing pulse!) So you've seen this on other slants too? Mine seems quite excessive. A leaking discharge valve would allow pressure back into the cylinder so that when it starts on it up stroke it is starting against full pressure.

The biggest problem I've had with the RV2 is crankshaft seal leakage. Plus the fact that that Apcoair *rebuilt* unit on my truck sure rattles when I first turn it on. It quiets up after 1 or 2 minutes.

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Fri Jul 23, 2004 3:04 pm ]
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Craig, Sorry to take so long getting back here. I was waiting for info, ten I couldn't find the thread.
OK, My supplier forgot about me, so no info yet on availability of mount and drive for a sanden on a slant.
You said you had the mount and drive for a C-171 compressor. The Sanden compressor will not fit that bracket. But, why not use the C-171? They are available new, and rebuilt, and are a good compressor. I would go with new. An A/C shop can make up any hoses you need.

Author:  bondo_jonze [ Sat Jul 24, 2004 6:19 am ]
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74 Swinger,

There is nothing wrong with the "retro fit kits" you can buy at your local parts house. Most of the used cars I sell have a kit in them. My wifes shadow had lasted 3 years on the kit and is still blowing cold. There is NOTHING wrong with using compressed air to check or flush the system.
All the major tool companys (Snap-On, Mac ect) sell flush systems, and every one of them are powered by regular COMPRESSED SHOP AIR.
If you are really worried about it, and you have an air compressor, then you can go to www.harbourfreight.com and get an air powered vacuum pump for ac work for less then $20 if you catch the right sale which is most of the time. Moisture does boil in a vacuum, right? Gauges are nice, but a charge hose works just as good if you do the math. look your system up in your book, see how much it holds, your retro fit kit will instruct you on how to convert the r12 to the r134a amount. (usually about 10% less 134a)

There are many reasons why ac work is so expensive. Most shops charge you "flat rate" so you pay for maybe 2.2 hours labor, what ever the shops labor book says... if it takes 4hours or 15minutes you still pay the same.
Most (not all) of the time the book time is high so the mechanic can usually (not always) get done in half the time. that is the way it is designed. Most of the time the mechanics pay is based on how many hours you are charged. more hours more paycheck. look at the shops labor rate and figure the mechanic is making 25% to 50% of that hourly number.

Sorry about the rant, but I have been in the automotive game for 25+ years and the truth about the automotive repair industry is not always pretty, and sometimes shocking.

Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Sat Jul 24, 2004 9:46 am ]
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You go by "Bondo Jonze", and you sell used cars! I LOVE it! :D

I, too, know the automotive repair game, and it's nice to hear someone else espouse the truth. Tell 'em about parts markup! Back when I worked at NAPA, I would have shops call and ask me to lie to their customers if they came in and priced a part... Hey if you're gonna mark up a part 300 or 400% from what the general public can walk in off the street and pay, do your own damn lying, I say, it's not my job to cover your ass. Were talking shops that have the part delivered right to their door "just in time". Might be different if they kept an inventory and resold the parts. Calling it a game is saying it lightly. There are honest people out there, but by and large, like most things, it is a racket. Don't even get me started on auto insurance!!! Anyway, I live in the real world, there are ups and downs to living in a capitalistic society (don't worry, I'm no commie), but human nature and greed usually kicks in. Just don't piss on my boots and tell me it's raining. :shock: I have a tad more respect for someone who's screwing me if they're honest about it! :wink:

Talk about a RANT!

D/W

P. S. - Tim Wilson RULZ!!!

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Wed Aug 04, 2004 2:51 pm ]
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Took a bit of doing, but found a source for compressor mounting brackets and pulleys for the slant six. This kit mounts the Sanden compressor.
Contact Jon at http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/
Please tell him Charrlie_S refered you. i get a kickback :) just kidding, he went through quite a bit to locate these parts, and want him to know it was not a waste of his time.

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