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Large Valves https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9949	Page 2 of 2

Author:	Swinger74 [ Fri Jul 30, 2004 12:14 pm ]
Post subject:
do yall thing i can give my buddy a run for his money?

Author:	70valiant [ Fri Jul 30, 2004 1:03 pm ]
Post subject:
with the build up you have posted I dont think you would get better than high 16's at best. your car is 400-500 pounds heavier than mine with the same build up. you will need a cam and 3.91's or 4.10's to get to the low 16's

Author:	Slant6Ram [ Fri Jul 30, 2004 1:44 pm ]
Post subject:	What he said....
You could very well need a cam and a higher rpm stall converter in addition to the other stuff you've mentioned. I'm running a best of 18.96 with something like what you've described minus the bigger valves, with 2.76 rear, no header but pretty open exhaust, and estimated 8.5 compression, super six. I guess you'd be in the 17.5 second range (but I'm pretty new at this). My money is on 70valiant if he ever notices the light is green I have a little more respect for how hard (and expensive) it is to get 15's.

Author:	Swinger74 [ Fri Jul 30, 2004 1:45 pm ]
Post subject:
i was prolly gonna go with a Comp Cams 252. does mopar performance have a cam that is comparable in specs? i prolly shouldnt go lower than 3.23 because this is my daily driver.

Author:	70valiant [ Fri Jul 30, 2004 2:55 pm ]
Post subject:
aw come on Paul, I was trying to give you a chance by pulling a 1.287 light my next 3 were .733, .607,and .708 those aren't bad. yes I agree with 3.23's being about as steep as I would go for a street car. that is why an 8.75 rear is so great. you can swap centers in under an hour. If you are lucky as all getout and find a complete Drum to drum rear for $250 and have a brother-in-law willing to lend you a center with 3.91's just for racing, you are set. I can not believe my brother-in-law found an 8.75 complete drum to drum with 3.23's and a sure-grip at pittsburgh for $250. I just had the drums turned today. now I just have to open it up clean it paint it and refill it with new fluid.

Author:	Jeb [ Fri Jul 30, 2004 7:10 pm ]
Post subject:
How good of a rear is the 8 1/4. There is lots of those around here. I have pretty much creamed my 7 1/4. It makes a loud a howling noise that gets louder the harder you press the gas.

Author:	Dartvader [ Fri Jul 30, 2004 7:31 pm ]
Post subject:
An 8 1/4" rear is not as strong as an 8 3/4" but you will never break it with a street slant. It is the standard rear for most medium weight Mopars after 1972, including the Grand Cherokee today. Only the last big C bodies got anything bigger. I have 8 1/4" rears behind my 360 dart 4 speed ,and my turbo slant Dart 5 speed. So far, so good.

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Fri Jul 30, 2004 10:47 pm ]
Post subject:	Like Dart said...
The 8 1/4" will survive behind what ever you are building, they were even put in mid-70's Fury and Newports with the 400-2V (400-4V and 440 cars got the 9 1/4" rear...) The only weakness of the rear is the 'c-clips' that retain the axle shafts, they don't take 'side loading' too well (no 'bullitt' chases 7 days a week, or Xtreme autocross...). I have yet to bust one though, but I don't drive like I'm 17 and evading the fuzz either.... The comp cam 252 is a good 'street' cam a little better than stock, I think if I were going to go for 4 barrel and oversize valves I'd check into the Isky grind or a comp cam's Xtreme Energy 'mild grind' (like the 262 lobe). If you were running about 9:1 compression a super six intake, big valves, I'd grab the 264 cam if you want an 'off the shelf' it's still very mild also, and you can always get a Mr. Gasket #1937 adaptor plate, and rebuild a Junkyard Holley 2300 to go on it for more CFM and tuneability... -D.Idiot

Author:	Swinger74 [ Sat Jul 31, 2004 9:38 am ]
Post subject:
so a comp cams 264 might be my better choice. will i have any lope in my idle with this cam? how high of a stall converter would would i wanna run on a setup like this? what kind of cfm does the holley 2300 flow in four barrel numbers compared to the Holley 390?

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