Well, I DID spend some time at the garage...

Not much Duster progress though. I focused on the Dart instead.

I know, I know,... Focus! (on the Duster)

I did clean up the driveshaft I got and slid it in there to see how far off it was. It was so close I was tempted to throw new u-joints in it and call it good... Then I came to my senses and decided to take it to the driveshaft shop in Louisville this morning and have it done right.

The shaft only had about 1/2" before bottoming out, so it's at Republic Diesel now getting shortened, balanced and new u-joints put in to fit the Ford 8".

Hey, at least it IS progress!

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

I mounted the seat and tried polishing the side windows a little.

I may need to replace at least the front lexan. They clear up, but are still pretty blurry.

My spare engine block was stolen off the car trailer (for scrap I'm sure)

They also took the old hot water heater out of my other trailer.

I'm really getting sick and tired of freakin' thieves!

"I don't care if it appears to just be junk. It's MY junk!! So keep your freakin' hands off it!!"

I'm done now.

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

1. [X] Replace brake line to rear of car
2. [/] Shorten driveshaft to fit the Ford 8" (4.56 Mini Spool).
3. [/] Either swap in the disc brakes from Street Duster or continue to use the SBP drum brakes - Will use the SBP Drums initially
4. [X] Install fuel cell, lines, pump, etc.
5. [X] Install wiring and gauges (ignition, tach, water, oil...)
6. [X] Buy and install a carb / linkage / gas pedal
7. [X] Install radiator
8. [/] Buy and install trans cooler and lines
9. [/] Install seat and harnesses
10. [/] Polish and reinstall lexan windshields
11. [_] Cover a hole in the driver side floorboard
12. [_] Paint floors and roll bar
13. [X] Install Line Loc
14. [X] Reinstall Driveshaft Loop
15. [X] Clean and organize garage for better productivity/safety
16. [/] Buy and install electric water pump kit
17. [/] Install alternator and crank pulley
18. [X] Bleed brakes
19. [X] Install A/C in garage
20. [X] Buy and install fitting for temp gauge
21. [X] Buy and install fitting for oil gauge
22. [X] Buy and install correct radiator hoses and thermostat housing
23. [X] Buy and install fuel line and gauge from regulator to carb
24. [_] Buy and install new battery
25. [_] Install overflow bottle
26. [/] Probably another dozen things I haven't thought of yet!


Stuff in BOLD is an update since last time. The / means the task is only partially completed. Once the task is completed it will change to X.

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Sounds like you are about ready to race. Brakes, holes, and paint can wait til after Clay City...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That's what I'm thinking too. I'm concentrating on the things that absolutely HAVE to be done to get it to run, pass tech and be safe.

I'm planning to tow it to Clay City one way or the other. Hopefully we'll at least be able to fire it up while it's there.

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

I re-worked the fuel system to add a filter and re-mounted the fuel pump. Just need a different fitting and it'll be done.

I also mounted the lap belts. If I can figure out a way to mount the shoulder harnesses I'll get that done. Other wise it's goin' with just lap belts.

I stole the tranny cooler and lines out of the Challenger for the Duster. It was easier than mounting the cooler I have and making lines for it.

I also went and picked up the shortened / balanced driveshaft along with a new set of U bolts that were missing.

Oh yeah, I also tried yet again to polish the front lexan... I finally gave up on it and decided to go with a new piece for the front. The rear and sides will just stay blurry for Clay City. I reinstalled the rear one last night.

Making progress (and staying focused (On the Duster!) )

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Forgot to mention that I got a two groove alternator from Norm and went to install it...

Still way off! I'm either going without a charging system for Clay City or I'll figure out some way to fabricate a spacer to get the belt aligned.

(Given my fabrication abilities... I probably need to get a battery charger! )

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

I painted the driveshaft last night and while the paint was drying decided to tackle the front lexan window.

I used the old blurry one as a template and cut a new one from a sheet I've had in storage for over 7 years. It was marked for the front Turismo 225 windshield, so I had to remove those first.

I spent more time than I should filing the edges for that "perfect fit" having trial fitted it more times than I can count.

I had three screws in the top and started on the lower corners... As soon as the drill bit made it through, BAM!! The edge broke off and nice 4" long crack smiled up at me saying, "Got'cha!"

So, will this pass NHRA tech at Clay City with a crack in it?

What if I put duct tape over it?

How's about screwing two pieces over the crack to "sandwich" it?

How do I avoid having this happen again?

Do I need to heat it up with a hair dryer as I gently bend it to meet the contour of the body?

I know, all novice questions and a very novice mistake.

What can I say, "I'm a Noob!"

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Ron Parker said he used a heat gun on his. Test on small disposable pieces first. I have not had that trouble, but haven't bent mine much.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ron Hamby Has some Cracks on his lexan on the yellow dart...

I thinks they are in the rear window though..

call the track or email them and ask.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Dude, I know where there is a preformed Lexan kit for a Duster.......

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

There are special drills for drilling in plastic that are less likely to produce cracks. You should drill all the holes before you bend the plastic, I am sure that aggrivates the situation. I have never had to use heat to bend windshields or backlights but you will find real Lexan is more flexible than cheaper plexiglass. As far as the Clay City tech goes don't sweat it, you drive past this guy in a booth and he gives you a number without ever looking at your car. Use clear packaging tape instead of duct tape for a temporary repair. It would probably be a good idea to have some of the more experienced racers inspect your car before running it.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Thanks for the feedback gentlemen.

I filed some more edges and drilled a couple more mounting holes and got it back in okay. Not the greatest, but it will do for now. I'll put some clear packing tape on the crack(s).

Good to know about the tech, but I definately want some experienced eyes on this thing before I try to drive it.

Speaking of which Seymour,.... It sure would be nice to have YOU at Clay City for some expert advice...

Dennis,

Dude! You're killin' me!

Tell ya what. You can bring it to Clay City and I'll buy it from ya.

*******

Tonight I:

1. Got the front plexiglass (not real lexan) re-installed.
2. Got the transmission cooler and lines from the Challenger installed.
3. Got the "jury-rigged" lower radiator hose installed.
4. Got the driveshaft installed.
5. Got the fuel line re-worked and re-installed.

Critical potential "show stoppers" I still need to do:

1. Fabricate a bracket for the Mr. Gasket electric water pump kit. Apparently I should have gotten the Moroso kit that works with the Slant 6. Or, I suppose I could steal the electric water pump off the Challenger... Nah! That would take as much (or more) fabricating than the Mr. Gasket kit.

2. Fabricate some sort of bracket to get the alternator lined up with the crank pulley. Or just go without a charging system and bring jumper cables to charge it off the Tahoe between rounds. Actually, I probably won't be making many rounds (if any), so this one might be a mute point...

The rest of the things on the list below shouldn't be a big deal to accomplish... (#26 is probably going to be the biggest "Show Stopper" of them all!

1. [X] Replace brake line to rear of car
2. [X] Shorten driveshaft to fit the Ford 8" (4.56 Mini Spool).
3. [X] Either swap in the disc brakes from Street Duster or continue to use the SBP drum brakes - Will use the SBP Drums initially
4. [X] Install fuel cell, lines, pump, etc.
5. [X] Install wiring and gauges (ignition, tach, water, oil...)
6. [X] Buy and install a carb / linkage / gas pedal
7. [X] Install radiator
8. [X] Buy and install trans cooler and lines
9. [X] Install seat and harnesses
10. [X] Polish and reinstall lexan windshields
11. [_] Cover a hole in the driver side floorboard
12. [_] Paint floors and roll bar
13. [X] Install Line Loc
14. [X] Reinstall Driveshaft Loop
15. [X] Clean and organize garage for better productivity/safety
16. [/] Buy and install electric water pump kit
17. [/] Install alternator and crank pulley
18. [X] Bleed brakes
19. [X] Install A/C in garage
20. [X] Buy and install fitting for temp gauge
21. [X] Buy and install fitting for oil gauge
22. [X] Buy and install correct radiator hoses and thermostat housing
23. [X] Buy and install fuel line and gauge from regulator to carb
24. [_] Buy and install new battery
25. [_] Install overflow bottle
26. [/] Probably another dozen things I haven't thought of yet!

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

All that stuff is chicken feed. Looks like you're essentially ready to race... I can't fathom this alternator mounting problem, but you can run on a good battery for a while.

Cool!

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

If you have a crank pulley on why can't you just mount the Alternator on a factory bracket in the factory location and run factory belt? No electric water pump, no brackets to fab up. Voila! Ready to race.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6