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Pics of Eileen-the stroker motor- now withDynoSheets/YouTube
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21869
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Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 6:32 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Now I am running at part throttle to moderate throttle. 15:1 +- .5
Under full throttle 13.5:1 +-.5
I must first say that this engine dos'nt burn a drop of oil.
Coming home from a show last night I nailed it as I do often. This time it was dark with headlights behind me and there is a black cloud all thw way up the on ramp. I don't get it. The Air Fuel ratio meter says it 13.5:1 Is that still to rich?
White cars behind beware :evil:

Author:  Sam Powell [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 7:26 am ]
Post subject: 

Dos anybody know if that 13.5:1 is enough fuel? My AF/ratio is now going down to 12:1 under boost, and detonation is gone. It seems you might be a little lean, but then I don;t know carbs anymore. The guy who does my welding has a big, new Chevy Pickup with a 350 he has tricked out with nitrous, and all kinds of lookgood stuff, and he is not out of the 16's yet. High 14's is getting pretty respectable. Keep going. You will find one thing after the other that will get it better and better. And, it will be cooler than a BB.

Sam

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 8:23 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
...and there is a black cloud all thw way up the on ramp.
Where there is combustion, there is smoke. It is not uncommon to see a big puff of smoke when you "nail-it" after cruzing the engine before hand, basically, you are shaking loose carbon and soot and sending it out the tailpipe. Headlights behind the exhaust stream helps you see how much "stuff" an engine actually puts-out.
DD

Author:  Dart270 [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 10:19 am ]
Post subject: 

It also could be that you have a small exhaust leak somewhere upstream of, or close to, the O2 sensor. This is VERY common with headers. If there is a leak, it will make it look like it's more lean than it really is. I don't think you should see a big cloud, but some small amt of soot is OK.

If you are actually rich, that can sap a lot of power!

Lou

Author:  sandy in BC [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 12:52 pm ]
Post subject: 

It takes very little exhaust leak to take the A/F ratio right out of any EFI setup. I cant even open the headers on my work truck and drive around the yard without clobbering the tune.

Placement of the O2 sensor is important.

in terms of wiring , sensing , longevity

I have had brand new O2 sensors come borked right out of the box.

Dont you have DDs Bren?....and a Y ? wheres yer bung lad?

Turns out you are a scientist after all. Cool to see man.

I may have to rethink my pinks challenge.

Author:  slantzilla [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 2:37 pm ]
Post subject: 

Congrats on sticking with it Bren! 14's in that car is really good. :D :D :D

Now get it to the track and get some hard data. :twisted:

Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Sun Jul 08, 2007 7:19 pm ]
Post subject: 

I do have exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor. One on the stock manifold flange. Its not centered and therefor the gasket won't seal. I have to also say I did not make this head pipe. A new cleaner one is in the making. At the car car shows it the one thing that gets the rolling eyes. :roll: I should have never paid the man for this crap.
A picture if you'd like to see the pile of Sh*t.
http://tinyurl.com/29gjby
http://tinyurl.com/yp8k5v

He didn't even stepup in pipe size. :?

Author:  AndyZ [ Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:19 pm ]
Post subject: 

You can get some of that just due to the fact that you have a newly rebuilt engine. Things are still getting situated with the rings. Are you still running 25% racing fuel? This might contribute to the build up of carbon.

AZ

Author:  Matt Cramer [ Mon Jul 09, 2007 4:01 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Dos anybody know if that 13.5:1 is enough fuel? My AF/ratio is now going down to 12:1 under boost, and detonation is gone. It seems you might be a little lean, but then I don;t know carbs anymore. The guy who does my welding has a big, new Chevy Pickup with a 350 he has tricked out with nitrous, and all kinds of lookgood stuff, and he is not out of the 16's yet. High 14's is getting pretty respectable. Keep going. You will find one thing after the other that will get it better and better. And, it will be cooler than a BB.

Sam
It's a bit on the lean side, but not crazy lean, for a naturally aspirated motor. It may be safer to run around 12.8:1 on an NA motor. Turbo motors often need to be a bit richer to stave off detonation.

Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:24 am ]
Post subject: 

I order to try to keep this thread more readable I've decided to link to sub catagories.
Eileens plug reading thread.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 788#146788

Author:  1974duster kev [ Sat Jul 21, 2007 2:00 am ]
Post subject:  wow my eyes hurt

I just read all 20 pages of this thread and i have to say it's 5 in the morning and my eyes hurts but man I love slant sixes can't wait to start my rebuild i'm gonna try to keep it simple since i'm a beginner dont wanna mess anything up.
1974duster 198ci slant six stock internals with
clifford 3 into 1 headers
clifford intake
4bbl390cfm holley
11.85 in the 1/8 mile stock gears with 15's rims and 255's in back so i guess worse than stock gear ratio :(
4.10'S COMING SOON POSI

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:19 am ]
Post subject: 

If you already have a 198, you should get yourself a 225 crankshaft and some 2.2 pistons and build yourself a "long rod" 225 SL6.
DD

Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Sat Jul 21, 2007 1:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Camshaft change

Planning a camshaft change. Follow along at...
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 775#147775

Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:51 am ]
Post subject: 

Moving back from cam selecting.
Quote:
I am going to pull the motor and send it back to the builder. He said he could add cc's to the head for a total of 83cc's (should be 9.5:1CR) and put my old cam back in. Cost- one 30lb can of R-22 refrigerant and one gallon and coil cleaner. :D
Seeing as the motor will be out and at the builder making some corrections. Is there anything I should do differently? I will follow blindly. Should the cam be installed back at its orignal 5.5*advanced or straight up.
One thing that has bothered me is that it won't burn the tires. I know for best 1/4 times thats not good but its fun. (235-60-15) Maybe with the lower CR I'll be able to bump the timing and be able to do so?

Author:  BigBlockBanjo [ Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:15 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:

One thing that has bothered me is that it won't burn the tires?
Are you serious? :shock:
Just a short note....I rebuilt my slant with .040 over flatop pistons, and shaved .100 off the block. I figure compression to be around 9.25-1.
I did pocket port the head, but other than that all the iron is stock. It has a Schneider 264/.480 solid cam, advanced by about 15*.(yep) I run tight lash, it always fires right up, and has a sound that I love. People think it's a small-block. It will smoke both the 205-70-R14's with 2.76 gears. And it has a Holley 1-bbl.
Now, I'm not trying to rub salt in a wound....but your motor should be twice what mine is! When you get that thing right...it will run like a champ. And you will be proud of it! I was close to putting a 318 in my Swinger, but I'm so glad I kept the Slant. I get more questions and dropped jaws about that engine than anything I've ever had.
Keep at it, and you'll enjoy it later. Good Luck!

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