Its entirely possible that 1) it still has a nylon cam gear, 2) its worn out, 3) its slipped a tooth, retarding the cam and killing your low-RPM torque. The way to check is to pull that cam gear cover and inspect it. See if the timing marks line up, and check the condition of the gears and chain. If it doesn't already have an all-metal chain (preferably a roller type) go ahead and put one on. You replace the timing SET (cam gear, crank gear, and chain) not just the cam gear.

FWIW, if it's slipped a tooth, it will likely slip another, or many teeth for that matter. If it does that, it won't run. I don't remember if a /6 will smash valves or not. Smallblock v8s most definitely do- been there, done that

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well, as i said before i will adjust the valves (hopefully today). i will need to order gaskets or maybe just a gasket set. i might as well go through the cooling system if i'm going to have the radiator out to check the timing chain. i have a new gasket for the oil pan already, so i should probably do that if i need to check out the cam. i need to organize all this, because this IS my daily driver. my question to you guys is: if i need a new cam, can i take the old one out in the car if i remove the grill? also, the car has low mileage, i want to keep it mostly stock, but is there a better performance cam i should use (without having to buy a 2bbl carb. and manifold?). i want if anything better gas mileage(if i keep my foot off the gas) and better performance (for a stock engine). the only other modification i have thought about doing is to have the head shaved (thousand's ??) when i take it off to clean it up, and a better muffler. well, i better get my behind off this computer and get to work... thanks.

There's no reason to think you need a new cam. Cams generally don't wear measurably AT ALL, or else they completely wipe a lobe off- it has to do with the hardening process they go through. Your symptoms don't match a wiped lobe.

And unless its leaking oil, I'd control the urge to throw new gaskets everywhere, too... especially until you have this odd behavior tracked down. So far, I haven't seen ANY reason to remove the head. Maybe it'll come to that, but not yet.

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Don't know if you've been this route yet, but I once had a Slant Six do this to me. I had driven it over rough terrain, and all the junk in the gas tank got stirred up and ended up in the carb. It would die as soon as I put it into drive, unless I revved the heck out of it. Cleaned the fuel bowl, replaced the fuel filter, away I went!

-Mac

As I posted many pages ago... I think that this is a timing issue (crank/cam timing) so I'll go with 440 Magnum suggestions. Maybe you can replace the timing set then degree the cam (wich I don't know how to do and I'd love to know) I suppose that's a li'l more complicated than make centers match then offset the cam isn't it?

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Here are a few articles on degreeing-in a camshaft:

Article Article Article.

You need a degree wheel and a piston stop.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

well, i finally got a chance to work on the "Scamp" today, we have had some rain the last couple of days (monsoon season). got the trunk to open and fixed the latch (another post), and adjusted the valves. i'm letting her cool off before i put the valve cover back on. a really strange thing happened right when i started her... she was running real rough, then the muffler started making a LOUD racket, like it has a loose baffle inside. also, (might be my imagination, but it seemed like more exhaust pressure was coming out of the exhaust pipe). i had forgotten to plug the pvc line at the carb., when i plugged it she started idling smooth again (understandably), but THE NOISE STOPPED. i noticed that someone had welded the muffler on. so do you think the muffler could be my problem or just another problem all together? after i get the valve cover on i will find out if it made any difference. thanks!

ok... before i forget again, i want to thank "SlantSixDan" for the three links! the valves are now set at 12-22k and it made no difference at all. 1400 rpms. at idle or it will die. please, let me know if you think i'm having a problem with back pressure do to a bad muffler so i can plan my next move. thanks, again

Didn't you say it runs fine on the highway and has plenty of power? A back-pressure problem will get WORSE at higher speeds and loads, not better.

I think cam timing is the next thing to check...

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when i bought the car, it had new plugs in it so i couldn't take a reading. i soon found i had a problem with a very lean mixture. on a trip doing 85 mph. i started up about a 5 mile incline. by the time i was at the top i was doing about 68-70 mph. after the trip i noticed that the plugs were very light, thats when i opened the main jet up which seemed to have taken care of a slight flat spot (off idle). a couple of weeks later i took the same trip and on the same incline i was at 85 mph. at the bottom and at 85mph. (floored) at the top. so, it at least held it's own, and the plugs are now tan. i just got home, and today i hit a corner pretty fast and the car almost stalled. i had set the float to specs., but i suspect the float is too lean... (duh). so, maybe i should check that first? i've decided that the muffler is not an issue. i'm going to get 2 1/4" exhaust with a new muffler after hearing the noise it made, it's welded together and it probably shot. even if it has no effect on my idle problem it needs to be fixed. could the float level be the cause of my idle problem and low power at idle? i will still check the timing chain and cam, but i want to solve the idle problem first whatever it is. thanks!

C'mon man, take that friggin timing cover off.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

LOL! well, i guess that means it's has nothing to do with the carburetor. ok... so it looks like i need to buy a "degree wheel" and take the radiator, fan, belts, and harmonic balancer out. is that about right? i might as well plan on going thru the cooling system while i'm at it. i need to plan this operation before i start, being i usually only have 8-9 hours at most from start to finish. also, i must have all the parts if possible before doing anything. thanks!

I'm betting the idle problem IS the timing chain...

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i sure hope it is! it would be real nice to get this behind me, so i can start fixing it up. i went out to the car yesterday to go to work and my 2 month old "ultima" battery was dead. i put a charger on it to start it and it just hissed at me. are all timing "degree wheels" made equal? or do you have a suggestion as to which is best? thanks!

They're all about the same. The bigger ones are more accurate than the small diameter ones, but you have to remove them to swap offset bushings on the cam.

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