thanks jess,i was an eye opener,i have always check plugs at full thottle shut down but the way i always check them meant i was to rich,i also didnt know the ground strap could tell timing, this makes me wish i had the high comp engine back in the car. so my best bet is when i get to the track i will have to check the plug after a full 1st/2nd gear run and shut down to see what is happening before i try high gear full pass

There you go, yes small steps & checking with every ajusment made will get you there. The expeince of using new plugs can kinda get to be a problem. But it is cheaper than a engine. One thing you can always use some of the plugs that was used for testing, as warm up plugs. And once you nail down the tune up use some of the used plugs for racing. And you can use just one or two new plugs for a pull test until you get close enough to need full reading on all cylinders.


I am really wandering about how the plugs fit in a slant six head (in the combustion chamber). Any threads exposed into the cylinder can be a problem, or threads not reaching to the end. I also seen some old tech bulitins or something from some old Mopar papers years ago, or maybe from some Mopar Racing tech papers that said the /6 was designed to use the plug with no seal gaskets. It was saying that the aluminum tube was to be the gasket and that it needed to be this way (no compression gasket) for proper heat transfer from the plug to the head. This was a long time ago when I seen these papers & I am not 100% sure if I am remembering them right. But I will be doing some checks & measuring & testing on this later on to see what I come up with on that subject. It does make sense that it could effect the heat of the plug, basically having two gaskets if using the plug gasket with the aluminum tube. And for sure would effect how deap the plug goes into the head. But it also seems like the tube would wear out after a while if doing this. So dont take as if I am suggestion to do this, Because I am Not. But if you understand what I am talking about it might be something to look at & think on.


Jess

Through '62 the plug gasket is required. With a '63 or later head discard the metal ring gaskets.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Personally, I would try just running a FIXED timing dist (no mech or vac adv) and set 15 deg total. That should run fine and be safe at high RPM/load. Maybe bump up to 16-18 deg and see what happens. This is nearly what you want under boost at all RPMs anyway, and it will idle fine.

Install knock sensor?? Sam Powell has been using one in his 69 Dart and it works fine.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I hear that knock sensors and mechanical tappets don't get along well. At a minimum you have to have the valves adjusted very well or the clatter of the rockers will signal the sensor to start pulling timing.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

That's the lore, but Ehrenberg and Sam P have both run them with success, so there is some precedent.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

It's tough to argue with success.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

will the duel carb adaptor is gone, i just finished fabing a 1/2in alum plate and got the 750cfm all in place,in the morning have to finish routing fuel lines, the dist is no problem i have a lean burn dist here just needs a cleanup. then the engine has to come out so i can clean everything and install the head studs& new gasket ,if they show in time.sucks to be on a island but the air is good .one more thing,what torque spec are on ARP head studs? i lift the power valve in and jetted the carb with#74 prime/#82sec, it is close to what i ran with the smaller blower.thanks again everybody.

Best of luck to you! I think the distributor will help a lot.

If the carb worked with the previous blower I think you'll have no problems with that.

I believe the ARP head studs will come with the recommended torque on the installation sheet.

Again, good luck and keep us posted!

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Joshua

i sure will if everything gets here i will know next sunday. again thank to everyone for their ideas

the engine is apart and looking at the head gasket #1&#6 are burnt and blew out like last time but #5&#2 look egg shaped as if they were going to push in to the lifter bore chamber, and all the head bolts have a shiney surface just above the treads, it look as if they are stretched.hope the head stubs are the fix for this.i was wondering about the gasket it self i once ran a ROL brand gasket that stuck like glue and had to be pryed off but the FLE-PRO one, the head just lifts right off, would this help it i could find one or another that is suppose to stick.any thoughts thankyou.

I would use the felpro gasket, not an ROL. Head gasket retention is a matter of the gasket maintaining the bolt or stud torque by not compressing. Sticking to the surface will not really help. It would still blow out if the head looses its grip.

I have both of those gaskets here and the ROL does not look like a very good gasket to me. I bought the set cheap to use some of the gaskets for some short term repairs. There is too much work and expense involved to use a cheap headgasket.

I suspect your problem was just the head bolts, as long as the surfaces are flat.

It would be a good idea to chamfer the holes on the deck and the head with a counter sink if that has not been done already.

just finished cleaning the head, check surface with strait edge,it`s ok, i have to do the block next then clean gasket debris from base and top pan , with the gasket i will use the fel-pro that i have here,thanks, i was just thinking out loud on the gasket.

the arp 7/16in head stud just got here today,not bad time,looking at the spec sheet it said the torque with 30/oil is 85ft/lbs,i was wondering should i stay at 85ft/lbs or should i give them 5or 10ft/lbs more considering the gasket trouble i am having,i have never used studs before so just asking for someone who has.thanks

85 ft/lbs on a fine thread stud is already significantly more clamping force than 65 ft/lbs on the coarse thread bolt. I'd rather you left the gasket as the weak point (cheaper than pistons and rings) and also not pull threads out of the block.

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Joshua