Good pictures! That is a pretty rough casting. I haven't seen any that far off. I would clean it up.

Yes, that was the good Doctor, I had asked him for advice about how far to go. I spent about an hour do to the stones I was using where Doug uses a cutter. I also polished them so the carbon wouldn't collect as much. I opened up the exhaust manifold (full gasket match) so there is quite a bit of room for the manifold to move with out blocking the exhaust ports on the head. The exhaust ports on the head were opened up a little, but not as much as the gasket. The intake port on the head matches the gasket, and the last intake I installed (aluminum) I left alone. So there is lots of room for expansion and contraction of the manifolds.

The result is that it seems to pull a little harder off idle. Actually the gas pedal is more responsive at all rpms.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Just ordered mine today. Spoke with Rem Sr. himself and was very cordial. He says he hears from guys mentioning this site many times.
Everybody here has been helping me with a lot of information. I don't think I will be going to a 318 swap for some time now. This is a fun motor to work on.
Like to thank Ted for staying in touch with much needed tips. Now I am looking for warmer weather.
Jim

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Jim
Moon Lite Vans Inc.
PennsylVANia Van Council

Ok, I received my gaskets yesterday and they are quite meaty. My concern is the stove gasket. It is thick as the in/ex gasket. If I do as you say Ted, will there be a problem with manifolds starting in at different angles? Since you are not bolting the manifolds together first it seem there will be a great angle between the pieces. Hope I am explaining this correctly.
New exhaust this week hopefully then parts off to blasting and powdercoating next week.
Jim

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Jim
Moon Lite Vans Inc.
PennsylVANia Van Council

I got one of those Australians. Is it advisable to use sealer with these, or other (Felpro), gaskets? I never have, but feel like I have a little intake leak. Felpro is on there now. When it gets warmer out, I'm going to put on the Aussie. To goop or not to goop? That is my question.

I installed my remflex gaskets about 3 weeks ago and had the same thought, if the stove gasket was an 8th thick wouldn't it cause the intake to sit too high on the head as the stock gasket was a little tin thing. Not in my application. The gasket at the head will be able to take up just about any variance in angle and the stove gasket did smoosh down nicely. I just marked the gasket where it matched the manifolds, slid the gasket on the studs and lined up the manifolds to the marks with a little wiggle.

First time in years that this old /6 hasn't had a leak.

I would not goop the Australian gaskets. Should be no need of it. The best(?!) way I've found to minimise leaks with the idiotic stamped-sheetmetal hotbox gasket you get from FelPro or NAPA or anyone else is to apply a heavy layer of high-temp RTV; when it cooks due to exhaust heat, the ash kinda seals most of the leaks for awhile I used spray Copper Coat with decent success on the the mass-market manifold-to-head gaskets.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Slantsix Dan,
For your usual detailed answer.

GupEBoy,

I understand what your asking and thought about the same situation occurring. However, the torque on the 3 stove box bolts is allot higher than the exhaust studs and easily compresses the RemFlex stove box gasket.
To answer your concern, I did not have any problem with alignment. I installed the exhaust manifold first so I could center the ends to where they were perfectly centered over the studs. The thought was to get the manifold up higher as to not pull down on or against the studs during expansion and contraction. I have heard if you don't allow for this "wiggle room" it can lead to manifold cracking.

Then I installed the aluminum intake manifold. My aluminum intake manifold says to torque to 10 ft pounds. So I torqued it to 5 lbs. and fired it up. After cooling I torqued them to the manifold spec. Everything has been working well, no leaks and runs quieter than ever even compared to the Aussie gasket. The stove bolts nearly squished the gasket flat. So there isn't a problem.

When I take it apart in a few months to install the 4 barrel I will pull it off bolted together and check it with a straight edge just for fun and let you know.

When I installed the original ROL gasket, the FelPro gasket and the Aussie gasket I left it bolted together. (I had them milled flat).
My thought is if they are already separate, you can line them up better. If they are already together, thats fine too but you may need to enlarge the holes to get them centered to keep the manifold from pulling against the studs.

I had consulted with Doctor Dodge on this and he gave me the pointers. The key thing is to not let the manifolds droop or pull against the studs.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

What PN for the flange to pipe gasket are you guys using? RF6006?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

thanks ted