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Separate the Twins? - Twins #2, Comments
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27397
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Author:  runvs_826 [ Thu Feb 28, 2008 11:28 pm ]
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Yes I would like some more info on this too if possible. Is this something I can try or should I tell the shop who is balancing it? Thanks for all your work on this write-up it is coming along nicely.

Author:  Doc [ Fri Feb 29, 2008 9:50 am ]
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Thanks for the input, it really helps me edit the posts so everyone can follow what is being done. I added some additional text to the last entry on crank prep.

My problem (a "good" problem) is that I have done a lot of these engine builds so what is obvious to me may not be obvious to everyone else. :oops:
DD

Author:  dakight [ Fri Feb 29, 2008 6:21 pm ]
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Doc, in your latest update you say to use a late "large pilot" crank. How important is this for a mild street build? I already have my crank reground and ready to go but it isn't installed yet so if I need to make a change, now would be the time to do it.

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Fri Feb 29, 2008 11:20 pm ]
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For a manual shift car, it really does not matter, as long as you have the correct flywheel.

For an auto trans car, if you have a converter you like, that goes with the "small hub" transmission you have, then you are OK but if you ever want to change to a high stall converter, you have to go "custom" with the small pilot stuff.

These days, I build all my SL6 engines using the big pilot cranks and use the adaptor ring when they go into cars with the small converter nose. Doing this gives me a lot of flexability if the engine needs to go into a different car later on.

In your case, I would just use what you have and get the car on the road.
DD

Author:  LUCKY13 [ Mon Mar 03, 2008 4:27 pm ]
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Holy valve shrouding Batman. The pics with the head on the block from the bottom really shows just how bad a set of bigger valve are to close to the wall.


Is the one head cut so much that it now has quench/squish pads that are even with the block deck? Maybe its just the pics making it look this way but that is a lot of cutting if it is.



Jess

Author:  Doc [ Mon Mar 03, 2008 4:48 pm ]
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That head has .100 milled off of it.
Even with that heavy cut, there is still .080 of "step" before getting to the flat in the chambers.
DD

Author:  66aCUDA [ Fri Mar 07, 2008 5:58 am ]
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Doug you were talking about 1/2 x1/2 rod balancing. Do you lay 1 end of the rod on the counter and 1 end on the scale??
Sorry I didnt chime in earlyer I must have missed that post.
Also is there a prefered method to storing a assyed block with out a head. Im having rust issues on bearing and machine surfaces while working on the head.(yhea Im slow)
Thanks
Frank :oops:

Author:  Doc [ Fri Mar 07, 2008 8:43 am ]
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Yes, you can do "1/2 & 1/2" balancing the way you discribe if you can set-up so all the rods position in the same place every time.
I have 2 little triangles that I use, the bases are double sided taped down and the peaks get positioned right at the inner edges of the large and small rod bores, right where I can see the edge along the bore's edge.

There are rod balancing stands and scales available but the set is kinda expensive.

As for storing machined blocks / cranks, spray or wipe them down with oil and put them in a plastic bag. If I store cranks "long term", I tear strips of cloth, soak the strips in oil and wrap / tie the oily strips around each journal, then bag.
DD

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Fri Mar 07, 2008 10:49 am ]
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Quote:
Yes, you can do "1/2 & 1/2" balancing the way you discribe if you can set-up so all the rods position in the same place every time.
I have 2 little triangles that I use, the bases are double sided taped down and the peaks get positioned right at the inner edges of the large and small rod bores, right where I can see the edge along the bore's edge.

DD
Can you post a pic, of this setup? I can't seem to visualize it.

Author:  runvs_826 [ Fri Mar 07, 2008 11:51 am ]
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I made one at home out of hardware store stuff and a digital scale. Look up my Rod Polishing thread. I know the ebay ones gor for a couple hundered. Hatch Engines who I have mixed feelings about for a six cylinder build, only charges $150 for a complete rotational balance so probably not worth it to buy a rod scale unless you want to do this several times (like Doug).
I had to edit this. I need to give credit where it is due, I didn't come up with the scale thing on my own. I got it from this guy,
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRA ... lance.html

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Sat Mar 08, 2008 7:31 pm ]
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I got this challenge form Mark, the Guzzi man:
Quote:
Will hot wire Guzzi motor monday morning to beat you on getting the first twin running,... just a FIRE AND SPARK,10 SECONDS AND I WIN RIGHT?
Loser buys a 6 pack of beer in Vegas,
Love Mark
Wow... I am surprised Mark wants to do this... he has seen me in action, I am the energizer bunny when it comes to SL6 projects, I keep going... and going...

Seems like more free beer in Vegas for me! .... it's time to kick things up a notch!
DD

Author:  madmax/6 [ Sat Mar 08, 2008 8:55 pm ]
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"Ca-noe" slowed me down a little,still might fire mon.mark

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Sat Mar 08, 2008 10:14 pm ]
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Are you still working on that "ca-new" car you bought?

You better get back to work on Guzzi... I am on a roll.
I used one of my not so secret wepons today and had Allen pull the engine out of the Lancer while I worked on finishing my "ca-noe" engine assembly job. :wink: :lol:

If all goes as planned, we will stuff the other twin into the race car TOMORROW.
DD

Image

Author:  sandy in BC [ Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:07 am ]
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hmmmmmmm. ....Ill jump in for a six of Full Sail ale......I hope to stuff the new motor into the Valaint today...mebbe fire it up.

Seeing as how you guys name motors I thought I would call mine "Queen Latifa" ....seeing as how it always seems busted...

I see Allen is in short sleeves.....its not that way here.....freezing fog this morning.

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Sun Mar 09, 2008 8:36 am ]
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Yes... Spring has come to Sunnyvale, it is great engine swapping weather! :wink:

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