Slant Six Forum :: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA

Greg, good choice on A&A products! The shop is about two miles from my house. I have known the owner (Rick) for probably 25 years. Used to help him when he raced a Hemi powered Plymouth Arrow and a factory Hemi Dart in the early eighties. He will be building my trans when the time comes.

. I also stumbled across some griner Valvebody PDF instructions - I am not using this valve body, but I did the Vent Relocation to the top rear of the case that they recommend rather than at the front casting of the pump - which is now blocked with a pipe plug.

Charrile - I guess some have expierinced fluid being thrown out the vent from the stock location - ?? I dont exactly know but I like the top location - It's like and 833 location and no fluid ever gets thrown out the vent there.

Greg

Author:	Slanteast [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:02 am ]
Post subject:
Great effort....what CR are you planing for? any projected HP numbers? What rear gear? Keep up the good work. Derek

Author:	Greg Ondayko [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 7:43 pm ]
Post subject:
Hi Derek, I have not Measured CR Yet - I have to CC everything and do some Calculating - My Guess is 11 ish, but that's a guess. HP? 275-320? Again Guess. Rear is a 4:30 Spool. Greg

Author:	Romeo Furio [ Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:47 am ]
Post subject:	Irwin racer
Greg, everything looks great. What machine shop are you using ? Can we have a bit more info on the pistons you are using ?

Author:	Greg Ondayko [ Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:37 pm ]
Post subject:
Hi Romeo, Machine shop is Brougher's machine In Pleasant Hills - Right off rt 51 near Century III mall. 412-653-8833 Ask For Jerry - He has done A few Slant motors For Me and Brian Droschak - and they do it right. - I usually have them Do just the bottom end and I do the assembly But they are just machining the block and other related components for this this one and doing other junk that I cannot do in my shop such as balance the rotating assembly etc. I will be doing all the assembly from the piston rings to the valve cover etc. The head is out in Nebraska and Mike Jeffery is sprinkling some magic corn dust on it now. He's also Whipping me up a windage tray and a crank scraper too. Info on the pistons and rods can be found here: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ght=weisco It's snowing here in the Burgh - Hope the Weather in nevada is nice. Greg

Author:	Romeo Furio [ Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:32 pm ]
Post subject:	Irwin Racer
They have been in business forever and in the same place. I never thought that they would still be there. Cold here too 34 degrees. Thanks for the Piston link.

Slant Six Forum https://www.slantsix.org/forum/

1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36132	Page 3 of 87

Author:	Greg Ondayko [ Sat Dec 05, 2009 8:59 pm ]
Post subject:
Yep still runnin strong - Just added an engine dyno. Jerry Miley Knows his stuff. They used to be up near Mcbride park (Lincoln Place) back in the day and My dad used to go there to buy speed parts for his slant racer from Brougher himslef in the late 50's / early 60's Greg

Author:	Greg Ondayko [ Wed Dec 16, 2009 4:45 pm ]
Post subject:	Trans Done 12-16-09
Just in time for Christmas! Maybe There'll Be a Nice ol Midwest converter under the tree in a few days - - naw I doubt it! Here are the pics - New Clutches / Steels and 2 New bands - All new sealing rings on everything also new gaskets / seals - It's a 69 Stock Case with the Accumulator Blocker installed, the stock 3.8 Ratio lever and A wider than stock front band. also a reinforced Front band strut from A&A Trans. This trans has the Transgo TF 3 Valve Body in it and It's a full manual shift. Can easily be converted back to a full auto with the removal of one plug in the Valvebody mating area of the Trans Case. I also stumbled across some griner Valvebody PDF instructions - I am not using this valve body, but I did the Vent Relocation to the top rear of the case that they recommend rather than at the front casting of the pump - which is now blocked with a pipe plug. Also has the Deep 904 Pan with drain plug,filter extender, and re-usable gasket. Pics - Enjoy. Greg

Author:	wvenable [ Wed Dec 16, 2009 5:08 pm ]
Post subject:
Greg, good choice on A&A products! The shop is about two miles from my house. I have known the owner (Rick) for probably 25 years. Used to help him when he raced a Hemi powered Plymouth Arrow and a factory Hemi Dart in the early eighties. He will be building my trans when the time comes.

Author:	Greg Ondayko [ Thu Dec 17, 2009 2:15 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Greg, good choice on A&A products! The shop is about two miles from my house. I have known the owner (Rick) for probably 25 years. Used to help him when he raced a Hemi powered Plymouth Arrow and a factory Hemi Dart in the early eighties. He will be building my trans when the time comes. Rick is a good guy - He has pitted next to me with his 4.99 1/8 mile daytona (which I believe was one of Geofferion's Old cars) Any way he's a super knowledagable and nice guy - he was rebuilding / trouble shooting someone's powerglide in the pits one evening. I do not mind throwing some of my ca$h at him - upstanging products and service. Greg

Author:	Greg Ondayko [ Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:51 pm ]
Post subject:	Block is back 12-18-09
I went to the machine shop to get the block back and to drop off my romac to get the rotating assembly balanced. Here are some pics of the block - The Cam plugs I had sitting on the shelf - 2 9/64" do not fit in this block - they are too small. It appears that it takes a 2 1/4" cam plug. The block got hot tanked and bored to 3.504" The boring / honong process was done with a Torque/Honing plate made from an old Slant 6 Engine block that i sawed the top off of. This block was pretty bad in the cylinders - I knew this that's why I chose it for such a large overbore - even still going .104" over 3 of the cylinders needed to be sleeved. Pics below. Greg

Author:	slantzilla [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 3:35 am ]
Post subject:
Looks like great progress is being made Greg. One thing I can tell you about the Griner vent relocate, make sure that the vent is not smashed against the floorpan with the trans in place. If it is, the dipstick tube becomes the vent and it will puke fluid out.

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 5:12 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Trans Done 12-16-09
Quote: . I also stumbled across some griner Valvebody PDF instructions - I am not using this valve body, but I did the Vent Relocation to the top rear of the case that they recommend rather than at the front casting of the pump - which is now blocked with a pipe plug. What problem is the vent relocation, supposed to cure?

Author:	Exner Geek [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 8:34 am ]
Post subject:
Re what Slantzilla said about the top vent, on my early model I had to cut a hole in the trans blanket and the floor pan and then thread in a brass pipe fitting so the vent would work. I attached a hose and vented it back out of the interior. The later model tranmissiion tunnel might have more room so that this is not necessary.

Author:	Greg Ondayko [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 12:04 pm ]
Post subject:	Vent
Thnaks Dennis and Seymour - I see the point you make about this - It shouldnt be much of an issue as I believe I will have clearance for this, but I will keep an eye on it during the install. Charrile - I guess some have expierinced fluid being thrown out the vent from the stock location - ?? I dont exactly know but I like the top location - It's like and 833 location and no fluid ever gets thrown out the vent there. Greg

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Author:	Charrlie_S [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 3:00 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Vent
Quote: Charrile - I guess some have expierinced fluid being thrown out the vent from the stock location - ?? I dont exactly know but I like the top location - It's like and 833 location and no fluid ever gets thrown out the vent there. Greg Mmmmm, OK. I have never had a problem. I'll keep using the factory vent till I do.