Should've known. I've seen them most recently in Hot Rod, the Sano camaro. Beautiful, Simple. Every one of their wheels I've seen is awesome like that.

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72 dart acquired 12/08 /6,holley2b, mopar perf intake, mopar perf header, cam, built motor,904 finally re-installed, 8.75....still needs sorting out.
99 dakota 318 5 speed reg cab picked up 9/09; Trans finally fixed! woohoo!

Tim's Valiant went 150 mph at PIR last week with this Baer brake system. He says the brakes were great. 427 inch small block motor so it isn't a /6 car but I figured some folks might still like to hear an update on the brakes.

His setup is 13x1.250 rotors up front with Baer 6P calipers. 17x9 rims all the way around. Rear disc kit is from DoctorDiff.

Here is a picture after he took a few laps. Car cornered so hard that it lost a dust cap off the spindle. Rotors have a little bit of color to them after stopping from 140+ mph a few times.

Thanks for the update Andy!


This whole thread is looking strangely like Page 58-62 of the august 2010 Issue of Mopar action!


Lots of good info in both places on haw to make your mopar stop better and get some lighter stuff while you're at it!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yeah, wonder who the idiot is that wrote that article? Never heard of him before.

Ha ha!

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks for the sweet updates, Andy, and congrats to Tim. Good to know that 13" brakes like those will cut it at those speeds in a light A-body. FYI, "Project V" is creeping forward and v2.0 should hit a roadcourse later this year or early 2011.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Here is the rear disc kit that Tim is using on his Valiant. This setup is sold by DoctorDiff. It is a really nice kit that works with the factory tapered roller bearings. This kit uses an OEM quality caliper rather than some aftemarket junk like some kits use. These brakes are small but they work well enough to haul the car down from 150 mph runs lap after lap.

Does the rear kit change the wheel "back spacing" at all?

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

I don't think its the bearing that moves things in or out. If it's the stock axle in the stock housing, then the wheel will be in the same place regardless of bearing won't it?

I have a similar doctordiff kit. My wheel moved out some because I changed to BBP axles (in a stock 8 3/4" A body housing) that use the B body brake offset.

The calipers are Mustang Cobra's - the ones doctordiff included were brand new from Ford Racing - the equivalent of Mopar Performance I believe.

Do you mean changes the wheel back spacing requirement? Since the rotor goes over the end of the axle just like the drum does it's only going to push the wheel outboard if the rotor 'hat' area is thicker than the drum it replaced.

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Joshua

I mean, does the kit push the wheel outboard and if so, how much.

I figured the drum and rotor are close to the same thickness but how does the caliper bracket attach to the axle housing?

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

The kit does not move the axle.

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Joshua

The wheel is then positioned in the same spot as from the factory.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

The wheels are moved out a very small amount. A brake drum is about .125 thick while a rotor is about .250 thick at the flange. So that moves the wheel out about .125 which shouldn't make any difference.

DoctorDiff's kits are designed so that the caliper bracket is the same thickness as the drum backing plate so everything goes back together properly. Some aftermarket kits are all screwed up in that area.

This picture without the rotor might help.