Slant Six Forum :: Cold Air Induction - Does it Really Work?

Could my K+N filter be why my wagon seems to like it better not haveing the fresh air hose connected? (1978 super six) Actually liked it the best with a standard open element filter that anything else.

The downside is if the filters in the bumper you run the risk of sucking up water if you hit a puddle, or sriving in rain

Quote:

The downside is if the filters in the bumper you run the risk of sucking up water if you hit a puddle, or sriving in rain

Uhhh, no you don't. Do you know how much vacuum it would take to suck water up a three inch diameter pipe? Far more than the 20 inches of mercury your motor will pull.

For clarity, then, the average slant six vehicle owner who operates a street driven vehicle and who either has a factory installed cold air intake or installs their own and mounts the opening for the system at any height more than two or three inches off the ground and doesn't drive through mud holes or through puddles deep enough to wash water across the hood should have no problem with water entering the intake. Off road vehicles driven through rivers or mud bogs or lowered racing cars driven through deep water may need special provision to prevent the entry of unwanted water and debris into the intake. I drove my Volare wagon for years in rainy western Washington state through large puddles and never, ever, had a problem with water, mud, or anything else making its way up the cold air intake.

I really cant explain exactly. Just seems like the car is a little more responsive with it pulling hot air from under the hood, atomizes the fuel better?

Author:	armyofchuckness [ Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:30 pm ]
Post subject:
Ah, it's working now. My workplace must have a filter on it. Too much car porn.

Author:	oldskoolracer [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 1:20 pm ]
Post subject:
Could my K+N filter be why my wagon seems to like it better not haveing the fresh air hose connected? (1978 super six) Actually liked it the best with a standard open element filter that anything else. As for your new cars, theres 2 different intake kits you will generally find. 1) is a true CAI, usually consists of smooth, larger diameter intake piping ran into the fender well or into the front bumper to pick up cold air. They work great, and you will see marginal increase in hp/mpg. The downside is if the filters in the bumper you run the risk of sucking up water if you hit a puddle, or sriving in rain. 2) is a short ram intake wich is ALWAYS confused for a CAI, these consist of a shorter large diameter intake pipe and replace the airbox with an open box and high-flow filter still mounted under the hood. These will gain marginal increase in hp with less increase on mpgs... Both can greatly benefit from a computer tune to make use of the extra air coming in though. The factory programming will only be able to compensate so much for the extra air.

Author:	Reed [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 2:06 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Could my K+N filter be why my wagon seems to like it better not haveing the fresh air hose connected? (1978 super six) Actually liked it the best with a standard open element filter that anything else. Define "like it better" and "like it best". If you run an open element air cleaner or disconnect the fresh air hose from the factory Super Six setup then you are sucking the hotter underhood air. Hot air leads too decreased performance and economy. You want to leave the cold air hose hooked up to the air cleaner snorkel and run a closed element air cleaner.

Author:	Reed [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 2:07 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: The downside is if the filters in the bumper you run the risk of sucking up water if you hit a puddle, or sriving in rain Uhhh, no you don't. Do you know how much vacuum it would take to suck water up a three inch diameter pipe? Far more than the 20 inches of mercury your motor will pull.

Author:	oldskoolracer [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 2:16 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: The downside is if the filters in the bumper you run the risk of sucking up water if you hit a puddle, or sriving in rain Uhhh, no you don't. Do you know how much vacuum it would take to suck water up a three inch diameter pipe? Far more than the 20 inches of mercury your motor will pull. Your right, at idle no you probably wont, but I do know for a fact from experience if you have your throttle open (cruising down the road, or winding the motor out) it will suck a puddle up. This is the reason companies like AEM sell a foam bypass that goes inline for the instance that this happens... Throw a full cold air down into your bumper and drive through a puddle and let me know how it goes for ya

Slant Six Forum https://www.slantsix.org/forum/

Cold Air Induction - Does it Really Work? https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50747	Page 3 of 5

Author:	Brucehockensmith [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 3:48 pm ]
Post subject:
Just like water injection/ carbon gone from the valves and head /chamber...runs better after!!!!

Author:	Reed [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 4:00 pm ]
Post subject:
I still am not convinced that a motor will suck up a puddle of water if you put the opening for the cold air intake at the bumper level. On Aspens and Volares the opening was in the driver's side wheel well behind the headlight and it had no sort of water barrier. The headlight is only a few inches above the bumper. I drove a Volare wagon for years and had no problems with water being sucked into the air cleaner. Any kind of upward slope will defeat and water that would be suck into the air intake.

Author:	oldskoolracer [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 4:18 pm ]
Post subject:
Yea Im sure our old Chryslers wouldnt be affected too much, hell even my 89 Golf pulls fresh air from around the headlight and no issues with it either. My particular situation was in a 95 VW Passat, v6, put a cold air intake and the filter sat flaush with the bottom of the front bumper. Before I had the chance to swap it out for a short ram intake my ex drove through a puddle and yes it did suck up a bit of water, was enough to make it into the tubing, up to the M.A.F sensor and shut the car down... The car was also lowered a few inches wich brought it closer and deeper into the puddle. So unfortunately as hard as it is to believe that you can pull water up through your intake it is possible. You have to also consider this being the reason that hardcore off-roaders wil use snorkles up to the roof line instead of relying on the factory placement of the air box, water gets too high in the bay and guess what, now your stuck. I worked on a 4-Runner that had that issue, had mud caked all the way to the throttle body, the customer couldnt understand why they couldnt get the truck to run....

Author:	Reed [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 4:24 pm ]
Post subject:
For clarity, then, the average slant six vehicle owner who operates a street driven vehicle and who either has a factory installed cold air intake or installs their own and mounts the opening for the system at any height more than two or three inches off the ground and doesn't drive through mud holes or through puddles deep enough to wash water across the hood should have no problem with water entering the intake. Off road vehicles driven through rivers or mud bogs or lowered racing cars driven through deep water may need special provision to prevent the entry of unwanted water and debris into the intake. I drove my Volare wagon for years in rainy western Washington state through large puddles and never, ever, had a problem with water, mud, or anything else making its way up the cold air intake.

Author:	oldskoolracer [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 4:34 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: For clarity, then, the average slant six vehicle owner who operates a street driven vehicle and who either has a factory installed cold air intake or installs their own and mounts the opening for the system at any height more than two or three inches off the ground and doesn't drive through mud holes or through puddles deep enough to wash water across the hood should have no problem with water entering the intake. Off road vehicles driven through rivers or mud bogs or lowered racing cars driven through deep water may need special provision to prevent the entry of unwanted water and debris into the intake. I drove my Volare wagon for years in rainy western Washington state through large puddles and never, ever, had a problem with water, mud, or anything else making its way up the cold air intake. Exactly, thats all I was trying to point out, while yes if your car sits an appropriate height, and your opening to your intake is high enough and your not driving through deep puddles you'll be golden. However there are circumstances that it COULD happen, not that it will. Also the difference is a completly sealed "cold air intake" system for a fuel injected car vs. a partially sealed "fresh-air" or "ram-air" system on our old chryslers or any other carbed car, a sealed one will have alot more pressure drawn through the intake than one using flex hose attached to a fender... It all depends on car, driver, roads, ride-height, and several other factors. I was only stating a fact, from personal experience that if your not careful it can happen.

Author:	oldskoolracer [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 5:10 pm ]
Post subject:
Define "like it better" and "like it best". If you run an open element air cleaner or disconnect the fresh air hose from the factory Super Six setup then you are sucking the hotter underhood air. Hot air leads too decreased performance and economy. You want to leave the cold air hose hooked up to the air cleaner snorkel and run a closed element air cleaner.[/quote] I really cant explain exactly. Just seems like the car is a little more responsive with it pulling hot air from under the hood, atomizes the fuel better? Maybe its all in my head or there is another issue with the car causing it to seem like that... I know it should lead to worse performance/ fuel economy but it just feels peppier... The slants are a whole new world to me and Im still learning as I go with it.

Author:	olafla [ Wed Oct 02, 2013 11:40 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I really cant explain exactly. Just seems like the car is a little more responsive with it pulling hot air from under the hood, atomizes the fuel better? That seem very likely, especially at take-off, before the air speed in the intake tract builds up. In those instances, with a shorter way for the air to move, an open air filter may give faster response. But during driving constantly at a higher speed, the colder air moving in the very long intake hose will probably help, compared to not using the setup. There is a reason mother Mopar chose to invest in it. BTW, I have stolen part of a photo from another forum to show an intake tract from a '76 or '77 318 Aspen. I have never seen this before, my own ends in the inner fender wall. The one in the photo is a real cool air intake. Was this stock equipment? Olaf

Author:	oldskoolracer [ Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:26 pm ]
Post subject:
Im pretty sure mine ends at the fender as well, never poked my head up under the fender to find out. I was making my comparison in the winter as well, so thats probably why it seemed so much better, and at this point I lost the flex hose so its not on there now.

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Wed Oct 02, 2013 2:08 pm ]
Post subject:
oldskoolracer, You can click on the red link below my name and view several shots of my cold ram air intake just behind the grill and over many years and many thousands of miles I have never sucked up any water. That includes torrential down pours, snow storms and flooded roads. A few leaves and sand yes.......! But I think that big air dam under the car is responsible for scooping up the debris........ I have always had my hot air stove and pipe connected, and yes the temp sensor in my carb still works. On cold mornings it pulls the hot air from around the stove for the first 5 minutes then switches over to the cold ram air. There is no noticeable difference in mileage between a K&N filter or a Wix brand paper filter with cold ram air. The cold ram air provides great consistent mileage and power especially on hot days compared to pulling air from under the hood on my Dart Swinger. I can run a lot more total timing advance with out pinging. The extra timing advance provides the better mileage. That is how I can get 25 plus mpg on a heavy boxy car that I drive rather aggressively.

Page 3 of 5	All times are UTC-08:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/

Author:	Reed [ Wed Oct 02, 2013 2:14 pm ]
Post subject:
Olafla- I believe that picture is of the factory system. It has been years since I owned my old wagon, but I do recall there being a hard plastic tube over the driver's front wheel.