| Slant Six Forum https://www.slantsix.org/forum/ |
|
| Port matching and polishing https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51235 |
Page 3 of 4 |
| Author: | CNC-Dude [ Tue Mar 05, 2013 9:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can start by cleaning the head first and having it magnafluxed. On the chance it is cracked, you wont waste your time in grinding and polishing. Also, it removes all the grime and grease so you can see what you are doing,, and not gunking up your cartridge rolls with oil and grease, this ruins them and makes them less effective for what you are trying to accomplish. Then you should bolt the head to the bare block and flip it upside down and scribe the bore profile onto the head. That way you will have a point of reference on how far not to go past with your grinding. Its a slow process, so get comfortable, don't rush, wear safety glasses and a dust mask, get plenty of light and then start. |
|
| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Wed Mar 06, 2013 9:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yep CCing will help in guesstimating your compression too. Areyou staying with stock valves? |
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Wed Mar 06, 2013 9:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Nope I got the engbuildr valves. 1.70" and 1.40 I think are the numbers. |
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Heres what I got done tonight. I am happy with 1,2 and 3. Four looks ok and 5 needs more work. What does everyone else think am I doing it right? I am not doing any port matching because there is no need the gasket and opening are VERY close. I am just doing clean up. It looks like each intake has a bump as it turns down and each exhaust has at least 1 bump on the right wall. Number 1  Number 2  Number 3  Number 4  Number 5 
|
|
| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Thu Mar 07, 2013 12:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Pull the valves and shine a light from the far end. Valve spring tool is $20 or less. |
|
| Author: | robertob [ Thu Mar 07, 2013 9:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
How can you see anything with it so dirty?? Plus that part of the port really doesn't matter much from a flow/power perspective. CNC-dude knows what he is talking about. Listen to him. |
|
| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Is that a conical stone? You need short and long shanked carbides. BTW I spray with WD40 to lube when porting. |
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Not sure what you are asking Rug_Trucker. I used Sanding cartridges that screw into the end of a mandrel. I have both long and short mandrels. I have been using Cylinder heads but to get into the corners I had to order some cone shaped sanders. I do not use carbide burrs as I am afraid to talk to much off. I am okay with it taking longer but I have absolute control this way. |
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Fri Mar 08, 2013 9:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Update Number 2 |
Okay I went and head the head cleaned and checked for cracks. All is well. So here is update number 2. These are taken from the valve side. How am I doing? I also have a question. If you look in the last photo you can see where the valve comes down through the top of the head. Is that ridge around the valve exit something that needs to be ground down?   
|
|
| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Sat Mar 09, 2013 6:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have some pics of some heads I did. Trying to find them on my computer is weird. I might take some small block pics and email them to you. A $10 die grinder and compressor will get things done faster. Your grand kids will have grand kids before the sanding rolls get the job done. |
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Sat Mar 09, 2013 6:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Can anyone confirm should I grind down the ridge outside the valve stem entrance? |
|
| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Yes... |
Quote: Can anyone confirm should I grind down the ridge outside the valve stem entrance?
Yes I use a carbide ball burr in that area and a cone to work that edge...If you were going for a high compression, hi-po engine then you would eliminate most of that shelf and some of the guide to make the ramp more uniform. -D.Idiot |
|
| Author: | Supercharged SL6 [ Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I second Rug, you need to use a die grinder and stones, sanding rolls are for finishing. I bought my grinding stones at Harbor Freight even if you use them in a electric drill, Just be carefull on the floor by the valve guide,don't remove any more material than you need to smooth it out,(don't ask how I know this) That ridge your talking about is where you have to be carefull just smooth it off, don't go hog wild there, here's a pic of my ports click on it and it should take you to all my pics 
|
|
| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I quit using stones after my first head. When I bought carbides HF's were good for many areas. Longer shanks are for deep in there. They didn't have long ones. Eastwood sells them. I bought my long ones from a couple that sells tools at the Mopar shows. The quality was OK, not great. Good for use on one head. Lots of WD40. I have a Campbell Hausefeld 11 gallon compressor. It gets a big work out with the die grinder. I bought it in a pawn shop 12 years ago. It should have died a long time ago. |
|
| Author: | jhdeval [ Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thank you for all the help. I have ordered a burr. Wish me luck. lol Seriously though I want this to be right and the pictures supercharged sl6 really helped me see what it should/need to look like. |
|
| Page 3 of 4 | All times are UTC-08:00 |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|