Slant Six Forum :: Porting a slant six head

Quote:

Ok thanks, this helps

You mentioned on another thread ( not mine ) that you suggest ............Its helpful to drill a guide hole to insert a locating pin to locate the intake and headers when you bolt them on and match your gaskets too. Since there is no way to positively re-install either when you bolt them on, if you cant line the ports back up with the intake or exhaust to align with the ports in the head, it really isn't going to be of a lot of benefit.............

Can you elaborate on this, I am not quite getting what you are saying here.

Do you mean a permanent locating pin? For the intake I could maybe see this but for the exhaust I am not seeing it cause that would stop the manifold from moving around as its supposed to.

This is a very important step that is overlooked on most every porting job. Most aftermarket intake manifolds have a pretty wide port flange that you can drill a small 1/16" size drill bit through with no problem. With your head on a workbench and the ports facing upward, place the gasket on the studs first, then place the intake on like you are going to install it. You'll have to put a couple of washers and nuts on to hold the intake in place, but get it squared up as evenly as possible, then tighten lightly. Next, try to pick an inconspicuous spot on several intake flanges(one at each end of the head)to drill through the flange, gasket and into the head(only go into the head as shallow as possible). Next, just remove the nuts and washers and remove the intake and gasket. Get a couple of spare bits to insert in the holes for the flange you drilled while you coat the flange mating surface with machinist dye. Put the drill bits into the holes and stick the gasket on the matching holes you drilled so you can scribe the inside where the gasket needs to be matched to on both the intake manifold and cylinder head. Repeat this process for the exhaust next. When your ready to install these components on the engine before putting it in the vehicle, just insert the drill bits into the intake and into the head as you put it into position, tighten nuts and remove drill bits.

Author:	1930 [ Fri Aug 08, 2014 2:25 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: Quote: Also any suggestions on where I might find an assortment pack of cartridge rolls of various shapes . I dont plan to make a career out of this and to buy a 100 pack of one shape but still need various other shapes that only come in 50/100 packs seems a bit wasteful/spendy. As mentioned, Jeg's or Summit offer kits. However, you will go through them pretty quickly, so 20-30 roughing grit cartridge rolls wouldn't be unusual for you to use up on one head. The longer thin ones are good for getting between the valve guide bosses in the bowl area and the bigger short ones are better for the ports. I did write a very in-depth magazine article series on head porting just like the cam degreeing article I posted on another forum for you. I just don't have it saved where I could create a PDF for you unfortunately. Any chance you could mail a copy when you send those pushrods back? Maybe you have it to photocopy?

Author:	1930 [ Sat Aug 09, 2014 4:37 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: Quote: Ok thanks, this helps You mentioned on another thread ( not mine ) that you suggest ............Its helpful to drill a guide hole to insert a locating pin to locate the intake and headers when you bolt them on and match your gaskets too. Since there is no way to positively re-install either when you bolt them on, if you cant line the ports back up with the intake or exhaust to align with the ports in the head, it really isn't going to be of a lot of benefit............. Can you elaborate on this, I am not quite getting what you are saying here. Do you mean a permanent locating pin? For the intake I could maybe see this but for the exhaust I am not seeing it cause that would stop the manifold from moving around as its supposed to. This is a very important step that is overlooked on most every porting job. Most aftermarket intake manifolds have a pretty wide port flange that you can drill a small 1/16" size drill bit through with no problem. With your head on a workbench and the ports facing upward, place the gasket on the studs first, then place the intake on like you are going to install it. You'll have to put a couple of washers and nuts on to hold the intake in place, but get it squared up as evenly as possible, then tighten lightly. Next, try to pick an inconspicuous spot on several intake flanges(one at each end of the head)to drill through the flange, gasket and into the head(only go into the head as shallow as possible). Next, just remove the nuts and washers and remove the intake and gasket. Get a couple of spare bits to insert in the holes for the flange you drilled while you coat the flange mating surface with machinist dye. Put the drill bits into the holes and stick the gasket on the matching holes you drilled so you can scribe the inside where the gasket needs to be matched to on both the intake manifold and cylinder head. Repeat this process for the exhaust next. When your ready to install these components on the engine before putting it in the vehicle, just insert the drill bits into the intake and into the head as you put it into position, tighten nuts and remove drill bits. Still absorbing this, thanks but I would think we would need to bolt the intake exhaust manifold together before making any sort of guide. Just my thought.

Author:	CNC-Dude [ Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:37 pm ]
Post subject:
No they need to be attached separately since they are independent of each other in how they align to their perspective ports. If the intake and exhaust were cast as one piece, then yes. This is common to the Ford and Chevy inlines also, so don't think of this is a new concept. Also, my copies of that particular article are long gone. It's been over 10 years since they were published. I guess i'll need to re-write one pertaining to the Slant at some point.

Author:	1930 [ Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:18 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: No they need to be attached separately since they are independent of each other in how they align to their perspective ports. If the intake and exhaust were cast as one piece, then yes. This is common to the Ford and Chevy inlines also, so don't think of this is a new concept. Also, my copies of that particular article are long gone. It's been over 10 years since they were published. I guess i'll need to re-write one pertaining to the Slant at some point. Being that it was published I would think that with the internet what it was published within would be still avail? If you have a name and a date of where/when it was published than maybe I can find it.

Author:	CNC-Dude [ Sun Aug 10, 2014 12:30 am ]
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The publishing company folded up shortly after the articles were published. I have already tried unsuccessfully to retrieve other articles also without any luck. It will be just as easy to create an updated and more current one using a Slant head. That way it would be easier to relate to.

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