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1983 hydraulic engine
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55449		 Page 3 of 3
Author:  Reed [ Sat May 31, 2014 10:17 am ]
Post subject: 
I have a 1983 cylinder head in my garage with a busted valve just like yours. My guess is that a lean burn system malfunction caused either excessively lean conditions or a grossly mistimed ignition spark event which lead to the valve overheating and then breaking.

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But that could very well be mechanical damage to the valve from a rock or bolt that made its way into the intake.

And you are right! The smaller valves are the exhaust valves. I was wrong. See? You need to be careful who you consider an expert. I wouldn't consider myself an expert. Two gaffes in one morning! Just because I type a lot doesn't mean I am right...
Author:  1930 [ Sat May 31, 2014 10:23 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I have a 1983 cylinder head in my garage with a busted valve just like yours. My guess is that a lean burn system malfunction caused either excessively lean conditions or a grossly mistimed ignition spark event which lead to the valve overheating and then breaking.

Image

But that could very well be mechanical damage to the valve from a rock or bolt that made its way into the intake.

And you are right! The smaller valves are the exhaust valves. I was wrong. See? You need to be careful who you consider an expert. I wouldn't consider myself an expert. Two gaffes in one morning! Just because I type a lot doesn't mean I am right...
I have been doing collision work for almost 30 years, I still make mistakes, some would consider me an expert but no-one knows it all.

Regardless I appreciate your effort and your quick willingness to accept your mistakes.
Author:  1930 [ Sat May 31, 2014 12:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
I didnt know really how to check the cylinders/pistons for broken/bad rings other than to disassemble/measure things which I dont want to get into on the bottom end.

I took the advice given to me and filled the cylinders with kerosine, waited, no drainage, the kerosine stayed within the top of the cylinder. Thats almost gotta mean no severe damage, that and inspecting each cylinder whilst turning over the engine every so often.

I took the opportunity of having the kerosine in the cylinders and cleaned everything up within reason. Vacuumed out all the loose particles from lifter galleys/cylinders and at this point I am hoping to be good to go with bottom half.

Someone had been into this thing before, permatex or some sort of gasket sealer on the head gasket.

Noticeable enough ridge at the top of the cylinder wall but I have felt worst. A couple of small areas at the top of the cylinders where I am guessing it sat for so long and condensation got into the cylinder causing a bit of rust/pitting but as far as I can see it is at the very top above compression ring.

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I believe I am ready now to change the oil, might just spring for some new oil while Im at it :)
Author:  1930 [ Sat May 31, 2014 12:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
I plan to learn how to make all the measurements that I should of done on the slant that is in my truck ( my good truck ) before I sent it in for re-build.

When I pull the head back off that truck at least I will be familiar with what I am doing if I have already done it here.

Lets say I wanted to build this engine for more performance/torque I guess I would need to find its compression ratio which I can do by measuring its deck height and chamber volume, does that sound correct?


This way I can figure out how much to shave off the head assuming that would be my first steps ?

I have printed and saved Dusters instructions on finding chamber volume but I do not remember seeing anything that went into any detail on measuring deck height.

Is it just a matter of laying a straight edge across the top of the block and measuring how far down the top of each piston is at TDC. '

Do I need to measure all of the pistons this way?

What other measurements will I need to come up with assuming I am building this engine for performance/torque?

Thanks for any help guys.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat May 31, 2014 12:35 pm ]
Post subject:  I would...
Get a Victor Reinz head gasket, they're good for up to 12:1 static compression ratio and are over the counter...the only one that is better than that is the aussie gasket.
Author:  Reed [ Sat May 31, 2014 1:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
Other than that notched valve and the sticky valves, that motor looks pretty good. I say fix the cracked valve and button it all back up. Throw an ignition system on there and get it running.

Actually, you have at least a standard electronic ignition distributor (as well as the desrieable late-style distributor hold-down system). you shoudl be able to wire up a stock electronic ignition system very easily and get that motor running.
Author:  1930 [ Sat May 31, 2014 1:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: I would...
Quote:
Get a Victor Reinz head gasket, they're good for up to 12:1 static compression ratio and are over the counter...the only one that is better than that is the aussie gasket.
Over which counter, called Napa and the guy had no idea how to find it even if they did carry it.
Author:  1930 [ Sat May 31, 2014 1:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Other than that notched valve and the sticky valves, that motor looks pretty good. I say fix the cracked valve and button it all back up. Throw an ignition system on there and get it running.

Actually, you have at least a standard electronic ignition distributor (as well as the desrieable late-style distributor hold-down system). you shoudl be able to wire up a stock electronic ignition system very easily and get that motor running.
I thought it also looked pretty good, I still plan though to lap all the valves and go thru my measurements as mentioned 2 posts above so that I can familiarize myself with how things are done.

Thanks
Author:  Reed [ Sat May 31, 2014 1:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: I would...
Quote:
Quote:
Get a Victor Reinz head gasket, they're good for up to 12:1 static compression ratio and are over the counter...the only one that is better than that is the aussie gasket.
Over which counter, called Napa and the guy had no idea how to find it even if they did carry it.
At rockauto:
VICTOR REINZ Part # 1162VC (head gasket only) $20 and change plus shipping

VICTOR REINZ Part # HS3955 (full "head set"- head gasket, manifolds, valve cover [for an 83 head], etc…) $52 and change plus shipping

At Napa:

…BZZZZZT….. Napaonline no longer shows a Victor Reinz head gasket part number for the slant six head gasket. Might be a special order with the part number or a Rock Auto only item these days.
Author:  1930 [ Sat May 31, 2014 3:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: I would...
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Get a Victor Reinz head gasket, they're good for up to 12:1 static compression ratio and are over the counter...the only one that is better than that is the aussie gasket.
Over which counter, called Napa and the guy had no idea how to find it even if they did carry it.
At rockauto:
VICTOR REINZ Part # 1162VC (head gasket only) $20 and change plus shipping

VICTOR REINZ Part # HS3955 (full "head set"- head gasket, manifolds, valve cover [for an 83 head], etc…) $52 and change plus shipping

At Napa:

…BZZZZZT….. Napaonline no longer shows a Victor Reinz head gasket part number for the slant six head gasket. Might be a special order with the part number or a Rock Auto only item these days.
I called the guy I typically deal with at Napa and he told me that Napa stopped selling Reinz products ( quality too high ) but he recommended a local engine builder that he believes carries them.

Thanks for the #s
Author:  Reed [ Sat May 31, 2014 3:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: I would...
Quote:
Napa stopped selling Reinz products ( quality too high )

Uh, what? Wow. Napa is going downhill. I used to love shopping at Napa, but lately quality and service has been declining.
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