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Rear main rope seal
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55852		 Page 3 of 3
Author:  '67 Dart 270 [ Tue Dec 09, 2014 9:45 pm ]
Post subject:  knurling
I see. Good to know, next build I'll check out the knurling or lack thereof and decide what to do. Do machine shops know how to reconstruct the knurling? I mean, I'm sure some machinists are very good and can do anything, but do engine rebuilders generally know about this and have means/technique to redo the knurling, specifically for slants?

Someday I want to have someone build me a really nice long block and I'm wondering for that reason.

brian
Author:  SlantSteve [ Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:40 am ]
Post subject: 
I think the easiest fix for worn scrolling on the seal surface is to rin a lip seal....If you want to use a rope seal you would probably be best to locate a NOS rope seal that contains asbestos and if the crank scrolls are worn just use another crank. I'm sure someone may be able to do it but I'm sure you could get another good crank for less. All the new cranks made for the older engines usually have a smooth seal surface,I'm referring to the Eagle and Scat units for V8's...the machine work on these cranks are usually sub standard and often get reground,have seen a BB Mopar have major issues with rear seal leaks...surfaces often get reground including the seal surface...but never seen anyone do knurling like the originals. I'm sure someone in the USA can do it,but is it worth the effort?
Author:  nm9stheham [ Tue Dec 16, 2014 5:44 am ]
Post subject: 
The scroll marks would take a very specific milling or 'impressing' setup and is not something I would expect most engine machine shop would ever have the tooling to do. I would just take it to a regular machine shop; an end mill with a support and rotation fixture would do it. There must be 150 or more of the tiny scroll 'grooves' on the crank, so it would take a bit of time to set to each groove.
Author:  BUCKET 636 [ Thu Apr 30, 2015 12:20 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Key technique for avoiding leaks with a 2-half-circles neoprene rear main seal: offset the seams of the seal halves so they don't line up with the halves of the rear main bearing housing. The housing part line is horizontal, 9:00 to 3:00, so install the seal halves with their ends at about 10:00 and 4:00. A small dab of good quality RTV at each of the seal half ends, too.
As Doctor Dodge and yourself and various others have mentioned this is the best method can you explain why ?
Is it if you install as per the Felpro instructions the joins would be in line with the block and cap creating a possible leak point even if you use RTV as suggested ?

Image

I am about to put my slant back together and have a Felpro gasket kit with the 2 piece rear main seal which I haven't used before.
When the seals are offset in the grooves will they move enough to butt up to each other ?
Or are they tight in the grooves and you have to align them spot on ?
Author:  SlantSteve [ Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:25 am ]
Post subject: 
The Fel pro seals works very well in my experience...I staggered the seal faces and also used the plastic sleeves that go over the bolts...I've done other brands with just locating the seal ends flush with the block as per the Fel pro instructions...no probs either...in my opinion staggering the mating faces is a little mor insurance you get a better location of the mating faces,but it's not a deal breaker.
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