Slant Six Forum :: improperly helicoiled valve cover hole in head - repairs?

I'm going to do the stud - JB weld eventually, will find out how my carp repair went. I'm rather impatient and wanted to check for all leaks so wanted the valve cover sealed asap.

You learn very little by doing it right the first time.....

Lot of work with no heat tricky method:

Do you have room to drill & tap a larger hole so that a fatter bolt can be screwed in with red Loctite top ground off even with surrounded casting, and than a new proper sized drilled and tapped hole made to accept the correct valve bolt?

There are other leak points as well, but since your having someone do your work, I won't interfere. Won't mention the alternator bracket to block bolt or anything like that.

Shoot, I can seal a slant for five bucks, but then I do all my own install and assembly.

CJ

The front bolt that holds the Alternator bracket to the engine block goes into the lifter area, so can leak oil. It's actually a fairly common leak point, and presents like oil leaking from the valve cover on the passenger side.

A dab if RTV on the bolt threads will solve it.

CJ

Author:	'67 Dart 270 [ Fri Oct 24, 2014 11:56 pm ]
Post subject:	stud way
I would do the stud JB welded in, rather than JB weld and then drill and tap it. Agree with comment above, that is. b

Author:	Reed [ Sat Oct 25, 2014 1:28 am ]
Post subject:
I'm lazy. I would wrap a buttload of teflon tape around the bolt and tighten it down into the hole until it is snug. I have done that to stop manifold studs leaking in an emergency. I did this to the rearmost exhaust manifold stud on the slant in my brother's Dodge van and it held up for several years until I drilled the hole oversize and installed an oversize stud. Given the low torque necessary for the valve cover, I think a teflon tape wrap would hold it tight enough to not leak until the new head is ready to go on.

Author:	spacecommander [ Sat Oct 25, 2014 10:59 am ]
Post subject:
I'm going to do the stud - JB weld eventually, will find out how my carp repair went. I'm rather impatient and wanted to check for all leaks so wanted the valve cover sealed asap. A New York Minute is a long time for me. 5PM today the E. Valdez (my name for the truck) gets undocked and taken for a short cruise. Will report back upon return to dock.

Author:	wjajr [ Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:05 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I'm going to do the stud - JB weld eventually, will find out how my carp repair went. I'm rather impatient and wanted to check for all leaks so wanted the valve cover sealed asap. Many moons ago I heard this said: Why is it one has not the time to do a job correctly, but time to do it twice wrong?

Author:	sandy in BC [ Sat Oct 25, 2014 1:09 pm ]
Post subject:
You learn very little by doing it right the first time.....

Slant Six Forum https://www.slantsix.org/forum/

improperly helicoiled valve cover hole in head - repairs? https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56426	Page 3 of 4

Author:	slantzilla [ Sat Oct 25, 2014 2:51 pm ]
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Quote: You learn very little by doing it right the first time..... Then obviously I am a smart man.

Author:	VG-265 [ Sat Oct 25, 2014 3:35 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Lot of work with no heat tricky method: Do you have room to drill & tap a larger hole so that a fatter bolt can be screwed in with red Loctite top ground off even with surrounded casting, and than a new proper sized drilled and tapped hole made to accept the correct valve bolt? This is how I would be repairing it.

Author:	spacecommander [ Sat Oct 25, 2014 7:55 pm ]
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Woohoo! The valve cover does not leak any oil - was expecting a little dribble or drop - but nothing, nada, zip. Monday morning the car goes to the car was for an engine degreasing so the leaks can be identified. Did notice the cross-threaded oil pressure sensor is leaking a little. Most likely both the front and rear main seals are shot. Still had oil all over bottom of bell housing. No oil down sides of head as valve cover is holding. Rear axle front seal is leaking. Transfer case rear seal weeping a insignificant amount. Got a quote of $450 for oil pan and front and rear main seals and damper/pulley assy. Think from years ago I was told there are other places on rear of engine to check for leaks that can also enter the bellhousing? Yes, I'm always the one who says "if you're going to do it - do it right" but this "maybe good enough" was good enough.

Author:	ceej [ Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:42 pm ]
Post subject:
There are other leak points as well, but since your having someone do your work, I won't interfere. Won't mention the alternator bracket to block bolt or anything like that. Shoot, I can seal a slant for five bucks, but then I do all my own install and assembly. CJ

Author:	ceej [ Sun Oct 26, 2014 5:36 am ]
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Sorry 'bout that. I'll get out of my box every once in a while, and you didn't deserve that. Take a look at the alternator mounting point. It'll make a mess. CJ

Author:	ProCycle [ Sun Oct 26, 2014 6:53 am ]
Post subject:
What/how does it leak there?

Author:	ceej [ Sun Oct 26, 2014 7:52 am ]
Post subject:
The front bolt that holds the Alternator bracket to the engine block goes into the lifter area, so can leak oil. It's actually a fairly common leak point, and presents like oil leaking from the valve cover on the passenger side. A dab if RTV on the bolt threads will solve it. CJ

Author:	ProCycle [ Sun Oct 26, 2014 8:37 am ]
Post subject:
Cool, thanks.

Author:	spacecommander [ Sun Oct 26, 2014 8:38 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: The front bolt that holds the Alternator bracket to the engine block goes into the lifter area, so can leak oil. It's actually a fairly common leak point, and presents like oil leaking from the valve cover on the passenger side. A dab if RTV on the bolt threads will solve it. CJ . Thanks for the heads up. Maybe that's what caused the valve cover bolt near there to get stripped - maybe there is a leak at that bolt. Will clean it up and inspect.

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