Quote:
just like testing a natural gas line install.
YEs, I work for the Gas company 
| Slant Six Forum https://www.slantsix.org/forum/ |
|
| coolant leak... https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57742 |
Page 3 of 5 |
| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sun May 31, 2015 1:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
While the Evans is out and you replace the pump, put everything back together, and tighten everything like you are finished. Then before you add any Evans, pump up the system with air. Take a soapy solution in a spray bottle (I like dawn) and spray around all of your bolts, water pump ...etc. If you have any leaks they will show up in a hurry. Allows you to see the bubbles and fix the problem before having to drain the system again. Rick |
|
| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun May 31, 2015 1:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | thanks Rick |
Good idea...just like testing a natural gas line install. b |
|
| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sun May 31, 2015 6:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: just like testing a natural gas line install.
YEs, I work for the Gas company
|
|
| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun May 31, 2015 6:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | that's right! |
You did tell me that you worked for the gas company; I totally didn't put 2+2 together on that one, Rick. My leak is really weird. On the one hand, it is completely rational, when the car is hot, it doesn't leak. This would be totally consistent with a hairline gap somewhere, e.g. the pump body is warped, but the heat swells the materials and seals the gap. OK, fair enough. BUT, when it was cold, I pressure tested the system and it didn't leak for hours. Then I remove the pressure, let it set overnight, and it leaked overnight. The pressure (cold) should have made it leak more. Crazy stuff. Brian |
|
| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sat Jun 06, 2015 1:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | leaks FYI |
I tried the new pump and only used sealant on the outer gasket sides, didn't do the one between the plate and the pump body (basing this on feedback and that the manufacturer suggests no sealant needed).... I did a pressure test and it leaks around that inner gasket. I'm going to redo with sealant on all gasket surfaces, snug to form fit the sealant, wait a few hours, then tighten to specs. I've never had a water pump sealing issue before, must be karma catching up with me. The block surfaces are smooth and clean, so no issues with mating surfaces, they're all really flat, no pitting. Thanks Rick for the soapy water gas test, that saved a lot of time. Back in I go! brian |
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Jun 06, 2015 2:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I don't goop up water pumps with RTV or similar. I use spray Copper-Cote on inner + outer water pump gaskets. Take 'em off the pump, hang 'em, spray 'em (2 coats), let 'em get good 'n' dry, install 'em. |
|
| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sat Jun 06, 2015 5:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | thanks Dan |
I wish I had read that before I started today, my bad. That sounds like a great way to do it. I'll try my (next) pressure test tomorrow, see if they're sealed this time. Honestly, I've never put this much time, thought or effort into sealing a water pump; it's never been an issue before for me. I can say without a doubt, if this round doesn't seal, I'm going with Dan's method. brian |
|
| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sat Jun 06, 2015 6:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | pet peeves.... |
Why don't they simply do something like Dan suggested from the start? You've got that gasket between that steel plate and the pump body, it's practically impossible to get sealant in and around there. If they'd just spend a bit extra, put a silicone gasket or a rubber impregnated fiber gasket or a rubber or silicone gasket with a metal core in there, this issue wouldn't exist. Water pumps are like $20-30, depending on the source. Is it really that hard to put something more than a micro-thin piece of paper in there? The newer water pumps have a channel in the body, and a silicone gasket/O-ring in the channel. No sealants, just bolt it on, e.g.: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... h.jpg.html How hard would that be for GMB or someone to make for the slant, I'd pay $45 for that... Brian |
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: pet peeves.... |
Quote: If they'd just spend a bit extra
...which they'd never make back. There's no money in marketing a better water pump for an obsolete engine. There's scarcely any money in marketing a regular one!Quote: I'd pay $45 for that...
Sure, me too. That makes two of us. Hype it up on the boards and maybe they'd sell 20 of them.
|
|
| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun Jun 07, 2015 10:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | ugh... |
it's leaking this time around too, same place, its leaking between the gaskets when I pressurize to 7 psi and spray soapy water on the seam. It's not a fast leak, just getting little bubbles, and it's on the side near the PS pump. I snugged all the bolts down slowly, little by little, which slows the leakage, but doesn't stop it. Amazing. I'm getting tired of the pursuit of leak free water pump at this point. It didn't leak when I drove it last time, only when it cools down. I'm going to call Real Gaskets and see if they'll make a thin silicone gasket for me. There is no way that would leak, no way. I'll let you all know if I get those made, I'll have them make extra. What do you guys think, 1/16" should be about right, it'll squeeze good, but not be too thick. BTW - Real Gaskets does make a silicone thermostat housing gasket, and now they make a fiberglass reinforced valve cover gasket. brian |
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: ugh... |
Quote: I'm going to call Real Gaskets and see if they'll make a thin silicone gasket for me.
Those might solve the problem. Don't lose sight of the fact that most water pumps seal up just fine with the ordinary gaskets. Something is wrong.
|
|
| Author: | nm9stheham [ Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had to put a more torque on the bolts to get mine to stop, more than than the FSM calls for; no torque wrench but probably in the 40 ft-lb range. I was kinda surprised that it stopped it, as I figured it would just warp the body and leak between the bolts. I put the gaskets on dry; they looked pretty cheap. NAPA pump. |
|
| Author: | Reed [ Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: ugh... |
Quote: Quote: I'm going to call Real Gaskets and see if they'll make a thin silicone gasket for me.
Those might solve the problem. Don't lose sight of the fact that most water pumps seal up just fine with the ordinary gaskets. Something is wrong.Look for damage to the metal plate or mating surface on the block. |
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: ugh... |
Quote: I never could figure out how one is supposed to replace the gasket between the pump body and the metal plate behind the impeller.
Rotate the whole gasket relative to the plate so they're at 90° to each other, then slide the gasket so its inner edge touches the pump shaft, lift one end of the gasket over the plate, slide the whole gasket the other direction...and it's off in your hand.
|
|
| Author: | Reed [ Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: ugh... |
Quote: Quote: I never could figure out how one is supposed to replace the gasket between the pump body and the metal plate behind the impeller.
Rotate the whole gasket relative to the plate so they're at 90° to each other, then slide the gasket so its inner edge touches the pump shaft, lift one end of the gasket over the plate, slide the whole gasket the other direction...and it's off in your hand. |
|
| Page 3 of 5 | All times are UTC-08:00 |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|
