i know you have come a long way and it is nice to see your gaines, but your cranking pressures suprises me, my last high comp engine was 0.060 over/11.4/1 comp/240@ 0.050 int/240@ 0.050 ex/540 lift int&ex/deg in at 108degs strait up and the best pressure was 185lbs, ring gap was 0.025ths

The engine is out. It took 2 hours to get it out and 30 mins to load it in the truck properly.
I examined the torque convertor and found NO cracks or breaks of any kind that I could see with the naked eye.

Whats a reasonable price to pay for a core 904 V8 trans to steal the parts from? Do all 904 V8 transmissions have the low first gear?
I have a line on one. Its a complete trans. He wants the unused parts back from the trans minus the parts needed to make the swap. He asking $150.

_________________
67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

The wide ratio "low first gear" 998 /999 (904) started in 1981.
Most transmission shops can get the parts needed to convert your trans to the wide ratio gearset.
DD

you have to find lockup trans out of a van or truck from 87 to 93 they can be in some cars but i haven"t seen any around here,all the parts you need are the drive shell and sun gears and plantary gear sets to match.the high clutch drum with 4 or 5 steels and friction disc can be swaped for the stock 3 steels and disc. the other parts will only work with a lockup converter because of the different oil passages. while you are at this you should drill the drums to allow fliud to press out from the friction disc faster and all so lube the bansthat ride on the drums. the only way to see if you have the right one is to see the sun gear inside the drive shell it is a larger diameter than the out side or tail of the sun gear.

Eileen is back at the machine shop. He's going to pull the head a report the measurements to me. Then I am going to go and measure it myself and take pictures of the measurement process. Our thoughts are leaning toward milling the pistons.
One thing that we didn't check is if indeed the stroker crank really is 4.25. Thats what we ordered but we didn't verify it. I doubt that is where the problem is because the piston deck height was right when they where installed. Anyway all will be checked.

_________________
67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Does anyone know for sure what the COMPRESSED thinkness of the Permaseal AP210 (3.66 bore) head gasket is? I am measureing .058 on a new UNCOMPRESSED gasket.

_________________
67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Sounds like you're keepin the Slant then huh? To be honest I really wanted to build my '62 into a super stocker with a crossrammed max wedge, but I'll wait till I find a lancer and build a Golden Lancer replicar, but thats sometime down the road, next project is a slant powered Model A.
-Jesse

This would explain your 60 ft time. A little more tuning. If you can hit 14 sec. with that bad a 60 ft time, you should see some great improvements yet.

I believe I measured 0.048" for the permaseal compressed. Will try to check tomorrow.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I am very unclear what to think here.
Based on my 64.5cc heads (assuming my first measurements are correct) and your chart, your saying that I likely have a 12:1 motor. But then you end it with "it should run sweet on 91 octane" with your sweep vol. calcs. I don't understand how you can measure using two methods and get 12:1 v.s. sweet on 91?

I've been using this online calculator.
http://users.erols.com/dmapes/DISPCLC.HTM

Even if I am wrong about the valve reliefs adding 6cc's and figure it a 0cc's (which its not) that brings me to 10.7:1, not 12:1.

I have this feeling that when all the measurements are taken again, I'll still have the same measurements. Now I will lower it to 9.5:1 from 10.1:1 (I think) but thats not going to fix the pinging, 0.6:1 drop will get me off race fuel, I just don't think so.
Is it possiable that because I have huge valves (letting in lot of air) and gapless rings (very low blowby) that is could be contrubuting to my problem?
I'am losing my mind. I am sure of the measurements. After the remeasure what am I going to do with myself if the measurements are the same again? I don't want to arbatraraly just add 19cc's to each cylinder if the math doesn't support that.
Someone said the math don't lie. I am going to have to talk with my therapist about this math issue.

_________________
67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

your combustion chamber cc volume was calculated with the new valves and seats already cut or with the old valves, you smoothed the chambers and then off to the milling shop to have the larger valves installed?

Maybe if the machine shop seated your new BIG valves a little too high, the effective volume in each combustion chamber has reduced drastically.

Doc SEZ that you CAN tune up the engine by lowering compression in the 10:1 ballpark, he's NOT saying that you can run on 91 octane gas if you *really* have 12:1

I don't think you'll get it to peak much more higher than what you've done, that's one of the reasons that I woulnd't be going the stroking the crankshatf way. That and because I have a special block...

Have you thought about goin stickshift? this could GREATLY improve things....

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

I like a stick,(when both legs work ), but not for racing. Consistency is the primary goal in racing, and stick shifting is just too error prone, and variable. Unless you are Ronnie Sox, who shifted faster than a 727, and more reliably.

Not only that, you have better action with a high stall converter coming off the line. I have converted three cars to stick shift, a '57 Pontiac, a '70 360 Dart, and this slant six '69. All WERE more fun to drive, but lost their competitive edge on the race track. If you get a bog off the line with an auto, that problem becomes more critical, and harder to manage with a clutch. I never had the guts to simply rev it to 3500 and dump the clutch.

I would absolutely get your engine working right before considering a major change such as going to manual tranny.
Sam

_________________

CC's where measured after all headwork and cutting.

_________________
67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Maybe this has been covered, but how are you measuring your ignition timing and what does your mech timing curve look like?

If your damper has slipped or does not have proper alignment with the crank, you could be way more advanced than you think? Have you tried just backing down the timing and doing speed runs?

On that motor, I would have NO MORE than 15 deg spread between advance at idle and full mech advance (unplug vac adv). I would probably shoot for 10-12 deg spread. If you don't have this, you should work on your distributor.

Just throwing this out, possibly repeating???

Having your timing advanced by even 5 deg too much costs you a LOT of power, and can make it ping. Been there...

Best,

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The damper is new and matched the old one and was varified that TDC is TDC when the head was off.
My igntion timing at idle 10-12* it moves between the two with the lopyness of the motor. When throttle is applied, timing climbs smoothly to 25* max at 3000 rpm. 5000 rpm its still 25* max.
The distrubutor is NOS and I haven't had it apart.

_________________
67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir