I've never run straight 50 weight in anything except my New Process 4 speed tranny on my 65 Truck and only because the Shop manual told me too

Both my 62 Lancer and 63 Dart have their original engine bottoms and I still run 10/30 with no useage between changes.

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63 Valiant 200 Signet Convertible 170/
63 Dart, 225/
68 A100 Pick-up 225/
2006 Mitsu Raider Quad Cab (Dakota) Mopar 4.7L
1992 Dodge Stealth RT (My Mid-Lifer) 3.0L 24V

If any body can come up with the correct answer for the this question i will send them a gift cert/ money order. for 20 dollars.
I have a 8 3/4 b body rearend in my race car that has a Strange spool and 4.30 Richmond gears gears what lube would be correct and what do i use. Thanks Possum. Ps it is not bear grease.








Hell Hath No Wrath Than A Possum Scorned

If it were me, and being a drag car, without a lot of rear end heat being generated, 80-90 synthetic gear lube.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

They weren't?

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Pure Ontario maple syrup, Canada "A"-grade.

Now gimme my money order so I can buy a sandwich to send to DW!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan that is to good of stuff to put in to a race car rearend. I like the Maple syurp on flapjacks or mix it with butter until you get a good mixture so you can tear a cathead bisquit in to then pour it on. Thanks Possum









Hell Hath No Wrath Than A Possum Scorned

OK, ya got me...what's a cathead biscuit?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Damn Dan you have been up north to long. A cathead bisquit is made from scratch with flower and buttermilk and a little bit of crisco and is about as big as a cathead when it is brown out of the oven. DW i need some help here, Most of us in the south mix sorghum syrup with butter and get it thick enuff until it will tear a cathead bisquit when you pull it through the mixture. But you can also use maple suryp or honey in the mixture. Skill is required to get a perfect mixture the first time but once you have enjoyed this . Priceless Possum






Hell Hath No Wrath Than A Possum Scorned

Oh! Raised biscuits! I just never heard 'em called cathead biscuits before, is all.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Nuthin' goes better with possum innards and gravy! Them's good groceries!

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Ive been running Delo 30wt in my slant. In the winter I toss in a qrt of 5w30 to keep it thin. So far no probs.

I dont run it because I think its better but because i got TONS of it for cheap. Prob have enuf to last me 5 years.

Im gona run it in the coronet's 383 when that hit the road this summer....if anything blows up because of it ill let ya know.

Oh and WIX filters!

Earlier I had posted that my engine builder had recommended 50 weight, but I have actually used 20w-50 since changing the oil after 100 miles of breakin. Do you guys have an opinion of whether this is a good choice or whether 10w-30 would be better FOR THE ENGINE? Don't consider gas mileage in the equation: just the longevity of the engine. Thanks again.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

P.S. I use only synthetic Mobil one motor oil, as prescribed for my '96 Viper GTS.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

With a nice new engine like that? Definitely 10w30 would be better for the engine. The extra fuel economy would be just a bonus.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well.... How did the builder build the engine?

I'm not being deliberately vague, just making a point:

IF he built it with stock clearances, then I'm with Dan. 10W30 would be better for the engine because it flows faster (provides better cooling) and flows SOONER when you start the engine.

But if he built it with big clearances for racing, then that might be the reason for recommending 50weight. But that's not even really modern practice with RACE engines, lighter oil and a big oil pump is more the norm. From what I hear, the NASCAR guys were practically using 10-weight in their big-clearance engines for *qualifying* (where the friction makes a big difference) until NASCAR started saying you have to run the same engine you qualified with or you lose your qualifying spot. But they still run as light an oil as they can. During races you often hear drivers telling the crew chiefs that they have no oil pressure and the light is on when they're "idling" on pit road.

Oil pressure is less important than oil FLOW, but pressure the only direct indication you can measure that tells you that you have flow.

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