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Theres no way I'll be making it to Valdosta with my busy A/C season bearing down on me and without trailering this brand new setup I really don't think it would be smart. A few trips around town would be a good starting point.
Sandy, the clutch issues where only a dyno issue. I am running a 904.
We ran the same type of MSD 6AL on the dyno as I have installed in the car.
As for bragging rights, that was not my goal for dyno testing this motor although its nice to talk about big numbers. The reason for testing was to see if I got what I PAID for. I believe I bought a very durable motor that is in need of some serious tuning. I also thought that dynoing it would take care of alot of the tuning. It seems that I was wrong. I guess you get what you pay for even in the testing deptment. ($400 for the day)
"Drive it. It runs. Be happy" as someone said. PLEASE, good money was spent. I'll be happy when its right.
That leads me to what is right? I would think that at least 1 HP per cube is the bear minimum I should settle for. Does this seem out of line?
Let go over what I was looking for before I started this build. This was also discussed with the builder.
First above all, I wanted a realiable durable build. Second, Be able to drive it on the street with only mild driveable issues. Third I was shooting for the mid 14's in the 1/4.
We discussed the Holley 600 but picked the Holley 470cfm because it would be a little better for the street and would likely only give up a little on the top end. To me a little was explained as 10-15HP
The 470 was bolted on and tested as is. 57 primaries 57 secodaries jets. Later we changed the rear jets up to 58's and changed the vacuum secondary spring to a lighter one ("oops wrong way") and then to a heavier one.
Cam timing.
Lets say the cam timing (degreeing) is wrong by 4-5 degrees, can this really kill the power that much? Can I varify the cam timing in the car without removing the timing cover? I did varify the damper timing mark is correct.
Ignition timing.
What typicly is the max total timing that Slants like? As I remember it was around 30 degrees. Is 34 degrees really that much more to cause extreme concern? I also question the timing lights accuarcy. Did you see the old thing in the video.
performance /6 typically like to be under 30 BTDC total timing. Sandy, the clutch issues where only a dyno issue. I am running a 904.
We ran the same type of MSD 6AL on the dyno as I have installed in the car.
As for bragging rights, that was not my goal for dyno testing this motor although its nice to talk about big numbers. The reason for testing was to see if I got what I PAID for. I believe I bought a very durable motor that is in need of some serious tuning. I also thought that dynoing it would take care of alot of the tuning. It seems that I was wrong. I guess you get what you pay for even in the testing deptment. ($400 for the day)
"Drive it. It runs. Be happy" as someone said. PLEASE, good money was spent. I'll be happy when its right.
That leads me to what is right? I would think that at least 1 HP per cube is the bear minimum I should settle for. Does this seem out of line?
Let go over what I was looking for before I started this build. This was also discussed with the builder.
First above all, I wanted a realiable durable build. Second, Be able to drive it on the street with only mild driveable issues. Third I was shooting for the mid 14's in the 1/4.
We discussed the Holley 600 but picked the Holley 470cfm because it would be a little better for the street and would likely only give up a little on the top end. To me a little was explained as 10-15HP
The 470 was bolted on and tested as is. 57 primaries 57 secodaries jets. Later we changed the rear jets up to 58's and changed the vacuum secondary spring to a lighter one ("oops wrong way") and then to a heavier one.
Cam timing.
Lets say the cam timing (degreeing) is wrong by 4-5 degrees, can this really kill the power that much? Can I varify the cam timing in the car without removing the timing cover? I did varify the damper timing mark is correct.
Ignition timing.
What typicly is the max total timing that Slants like? As I remember it was around 30 degrees. Is 34 degrees really that much more to cause extreme concern? I also question the timing lights accuarcy. Did you see the old thing in the video.
I would be happy with AT LEAST, 1 hp per cube having spent that money. At least being "worst case scenario".
Accel pump shoot for carb? cam used? jetting seems right at first sight but we need to evaluate booster signal. Could be right or could be awful wrong. power valve? valve lash?
maybe, MAYBE your clutch issues on the dyno caused an untrue reading. I'd say so in light of what you have done with the beast. I'll ask one more time: cranking pressure? and last but not least 5 degrees off can kill 25 hp...
Touched the key yesterday and it roared to life. A couple quick snaps of the throttle with open pipes brought the neighbor out for a looksee. 
Ran it for about 30 seconds. Got to finish the cooling system.
