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1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36132		 Page 4 of 87
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 6:35 pm ]
Post subject:  Balanced, Polished, Ready to start Assembly 12-22-09
Merry Christmas 2009!

I got My crank, rods, pistons, Balancer and Flexplate Back from the Machine shop -
For the Crank the journals will be at the stock size - Just a little hot tank, polish, and balance.

I have started a bit on the short block assembly - I am waiting on my quart of Glyptal.. for painting the inside of all the block's oil gallery return surfaces. I also did some extensive porting / massaging on the oil pump casting housing. Hopefully by the end of the week I will have an assembled short block minus the tin. What a great Christmas gift to me YAY!

Detailed pics Below.

Greg


Block With New Plumbing
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Freeze Plug Side
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Cam Bearings and Mains installed - Also Some of the ARP Studs
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I cut one of the ARP head studs Back to the Stock Bolt Dia. and place it in the Rear whre the oil has to flow around it to the rockers.
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6.5 cc's on rthe Valve reliefs
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Thanks for the romac Lou!
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Crank's Back Shiny, polished and Balanced
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Ain't She Purdy?
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Improved oil flow to rods and mains
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Blue printing a Stock Oil Pump - Aluminum Casting
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Doc's Hardend Gear will Replace this swiss Cheese one.
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Gratitous Oil Pump Casting Porting Pics!
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Author:  slantzilla [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 7:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Lookin' good Greg! :D
Author:  emsvitil [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Balanced, Polished, Ready to start Assembly 12-22-09
Quote:

Block With New Plumbing
Image

What's the extra plumbing for?
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Wed Dec 23, 2009 2:39 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Balanced, Polished, Ready to start Assembly 12-22-09
Quote:
Quote:

Block With New Plumbing
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What's the extra plumbing for?
Well the one in the oil Gallery is For the Oil Pressure Gauge - Mechanical.

And the Other one is for the Coolant Drain - I Extend it out Past the Edge of the block and Put an elbow on there to have Less Mess When I drain the coolant from the Block - It directs the Flow toward the ground and off the frame and block etc.


Greg
Author:  Slanteast [ Wed Dec 23, 2009 4:47 am ]
Post subject: 
Looking like some fun this winter. What is the paint that you are using inside the block? Where do you purchase it? Neat trick with the coolant drain, I think I'll try it as well.
Good luck with the build.
Merry Xmas
Derek
Author:  Shaker223 [ Wed Dec 23, 2009 10:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Balanced, Polished, Ready to start Assembly 12-22-09
Quote:
Merry Christmas 2009!

I cut one of the ARP head studs Back to the Stock Bolt Dia. and place it in the Rear whre the oil has to flow around it to the rockers.
Image
You might want to check with ARP as the studs may only be case hardened. You might have ground/cut the hardness away.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Wed Dec 23, 2009 12:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Looking like some fun this winter. What is the paint that you are using inside the block? Where do you purchase it? Neat trick with the coolant drain, I think I'll try it as well.
Good luck with the build.
Merry Xmas
Derek
Thanks - Here is what i got for the Inside castings -

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/glyptal.html


Tom, I will check into this on the ARP stud - I did it with the dart engine - Never had any problems and of course I am not running boost So less Head bolt strain too.


Greg
Author:  Joshie225 [ Wed Dec 23, 2009 12:17 pm ]
Post subject: 
I think I would have drilled the had bolt hole a little oversize to keep the head studs all the same with equal stretch and preload.
Author:  wvenable [ Mon Dec 28, 2009 10:06 am ]
Post subject: 
Greg, thanks for the play by play! This is very good stuff!
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Mon Dec 28, 2009 11:38 am ]
Post subject:  12-28-09
Thanks wvenable,


Here's what I have done gotten done today:

Checked the Mains Clearance All Were in spec - at.001" - .002"

I also fitted the rings in the bore.

The Bottom rings were all good not needing any adjustment - The top rings Needed a bit of filing to get the Gap on spec.


The Piston / ring instructions say to torque a honing plate before checking / filing ring gaps.
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Ring in bore
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Ring Gap Closeup - Top Ring Gap Spec = .015"
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The Rings must Be square in the bore to get an accurate meaurment - Here's my Ring squaring tool - Piston#1 with only the oil rings installed as a stop.
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The Piston Rod combination are all within 3 Grams if each other - Lightest being 1218g heaviest being 1221g
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Greg
Author:  madmax/6 [ Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Looking great,I cant believe how close our builds are,and where we are at,,,,allmost the same.I will bee checking rings tommorrow,pistons at the machine shop haveing .20 cut off the tops cause mine were .17 out of the holes.My block is done,Painted inside and out,will bee getting 440 balancer tommorrow that will need modifying,and figure out a cam too order.Keep up the great work,really appreciate the updates and pics,it motivates me,Guzzi Mark
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Dec 29, 2009 3:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Cool,

Where are your build Pics at Mark? I need to compare notes. :P

What paint are you using on the inside of your block?


Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Dec 29, 2009 8:12 am ]
Post subject:  Comparative Mass Study
Here is a shot of the stock 225 (short) rod and piston on the scale - compared the K1 / Weisco Combination pictured above.

The K1 / Weisco combo with rings weighs in at an average of 1219g's per cylinder - versus the Stock Rod and piston combo from a 225 - (this weight is without Rings too!) @ 1350g's per cylinder! That' a total Reciporating weight savings of 131g's Per cylinder or 1.7#'s Total Mass!

Yay More Power to the wheels!

Stock 225 Stuff w/o Rings.
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Greg
Author:  madmax/6 [ Tue Dec 29, 2009 10:35 am ]
Post subject: 
I used Spray Kote on the inside of my engine,will try to post some pics.Mark
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Dec 29, 2009 8:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Deep Sump Oil Pan Started 12-29-09
In hot rodding if you dont have it, Fab it.

I am not aware of anyone who sells deep sump oil pans with baffles etc. for the slant so I am making one -

It will start out 4" lower than stock and then I am thinking maybe 2" kickouts below that? with baffling etc, inside to keep the slosh away from the Crank path on hard launches.

Every thing's recycled. and all mopar - The donor metal came from the top of the 81 Lebaron Station wagon I parted last year - Too bad the bottom of that car wasn't as solid as the roof!
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The oil pan was a piece that was all smashed up and rotted from a scamp that came out of the salvage yard in 2 pieces. The pan was cut and just the basic frame that attatches to the engine remains.
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Fitting up the 4" drop.
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More welding on the 4" drop.
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Greg
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