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| Port matching and polishing https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51235 |
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| Author: | robertob [ Sun Mar 10, 2013 9:28 pm ] |
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Best deal on burrs I have found is ebay. I use an electric die grinder, $40 from HF a few years ago. It's LOUD but works great. Use a router speed control (another $10 or so from HF) to turn it down. |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 6:35 am ] |
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You will need a variety of carbides.HF used to have a decent set for the chambers and the edge of the ports.The long shanksget squirlly out near the outside and jump around. |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 8:01 am ] |
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http://www.amazon.com/David-Vizards-Cyl ... p_2_KECK#_ This looks like an excellent book. I'm going to get it for myself. |
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| Author: | jhdeval [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 8:58 am ] |
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I do not atest to the quality of this book but I did find this recently. Maybe an interesting read and free. http://books.google.com/books?id=283b4k ... &q&f=false |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 10:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | Vizard over the other.. |
I have a couple David Vizard books, and he is a good author with lots of time behind a dyno to present his data, theories, and changes in his books. I do have the Burgess&Gollan book, it's specifically meant for the British motor crowd with not much that can be used directly in the US, most of the presentation works directly with MG, Austin-Healey, British Fords (they give data on the 351, but USA Ford has better data due to direct factory support of that engine over the years). I would not recommend this book for our application. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Mon Mar 11, 2013 10:51 am ] |
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Quote: I use an electric die grinder, $40 from HF a few years ago. It's LOUD but works great. Use a router speed control (another $10 or so from HF) to turn it down.
Dust mask, nitrile gloves and hearing protection is my uniform. Air die grinder is loud, and cold in the cooler weather. 
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| Author: | jhdeval [ Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:50 am ] |
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How my progress? Does this look right? It's not done yet just checking. 
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:40 am ] |
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Got flapper wheels? That will polish it good. The valves need to be un shrouded. Possibly set the larger valves on top of the old ones to determine how much to remove for un shrouding. The rough areas around the edges can be done with the right shaped metal bits. |
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| Author: | Ssg Pohlman [ Sat Apr 06, 2013 5:17 am ] |
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Quote: On the exhaust manifold runners I squared them up and cleaned them (lots of little casting bumps and ridges) out as far as I could reach. They are bigger than the head, again to reduce reversion. At the outlet I opened it up to a full 2.25" and went up about 4" at that diameter.From dead cold to running temperature the engine pulls hard.
You went 2.25", is that the max bore on the outlet? Looked and searched for pics of the outlet etc but no luck....end jack...How'd this turn out? I'm sure the burr bit went a bit faster. Should post updates to show a guy like me (never ported a head either) that it can be done and some tips. |
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| Author: | jhdeval [ Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:00 am ] |
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Sorry it went very well. I did not need to port match as my gasket was already very well matched so what I did was mostly clean up. It is not as good as many others would have done. I don't have any pictures at the moment. I will post more pics as soon as I get the head back. What I did was grind down the casting seam along the interior walls of the valves and the ridge directly in front of the valve stem inlet. Then came back with 80 grit sanders and "polished" everything I could touch. I also ground down any casting marks. I found several warts in the tunnels. There are better ways to do it and with more experience I may have gone more daring but I just really wanted to focus on air flow clean up. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Mon Jun 02, 2014 4:57 am ] |
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It looks like this was bumped up for my benefit also. Thanks. Another question is whether it is better to use the head that will come with the hydraulic motor in its stock form, or use the drool tube head on the existing motor which I have spent considerable time porting, and which has oversized valves? Using the existing heads will save time and money. I also cc'd them with the plexiglass and cooking oil trick. Does porting and over sized valves hurt efficiency if the engine will never see over 3500 rpm? Sam |
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| Author: | 1930 [ Mon Jun 02, 2014 3:47 pm ] |
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Quote: It looks like this was bumped up for my benefit also. Thanks. Another question is whether it is better to use the head that will come with the hydraulic motor in its stock form, or use the drool tube head on the existing motor which I have spent considerable time porting, and which has oversized valves? Using the existing heads will save time and money. I also cc'd them with the plexiglass and cooking oil trick. Does porting and over sized valves hurt efficiency if the engine will never see over 3500 rpm?
Actually I bumped it for my benefit but jump aboard Sam  Found it doing searches |
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