That makes my spaghetti-sauce-can and scrap plastic tube CAI look kind of shabby.



Nice work!

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Slantvaliant, I like how you went from round to oval at the front support...no need to cut a round hole lower down like I did...

Reed, point well taken, I could use MPFI and use dual throttle bodies for the air only. I'm not afraid to drill for bungs etc. Though I might have to get a separate intake to do it while I'm driving the other one.

Mark, do you think that hyperpack manifolds, because they don't have carb heat, might be a better choice for me over Dutra Duals, i.e. lower my carb temps generally while still providing enough radiant heat to vaporize gas in the intake?

Brian

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Yes Buy a set of headers and wrap them with header wrap . Should give more power also. Might be able to find used ones and trade or sell your manifolds .

Stick with the Dutra manifolds. Headers will bring new problems and wont solve the current ones.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

That's mostly a function of the geometry of a narrow-body engine bay vs that of a '67-up. There's not a lot of room in front of the alternator for hoses. The location I chose is somewhat shielded by the hood edge from direct flight of rocks, bugs, etc. I still need to put some rat wire over it, just in case.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Do you have stock camshaft . What is your timing at idle ? Might be able to advance 4-5 degrees . Keep total advance about 33 or less . If timing is retarded it makes alot of heat . Give it a try advancing some . Have you had a problem since the CAI .

My advance is OK, I have it set at 10 deg. advanced, total is less than 30 mechanical but with vacuum advance it's more.

The CAI is great, but it doesn't solve the problem.

Before the CAI, when the traffic flooding issue happened, I would pull to the side of the road, pop the hood and put my hand on the float bowls and they were frickin' hot to the touch. Last week, on the way home, I was stuck in traffic and it happened again, as usual. But, when I popped the hood and put my hand on the carbs, they were cool to the touch, perhaps 100 degrees, but not hot by any means. Still, there's something going on and it must be a heat related issue, because this happens during traffic sitting situations, and when I shut it off and it sets for about 15 minutes (after an hour or so, she fires right up) it floods when I start it up.

So far, I've installed heat shields, phenolic spacers, insulated fuel lines, lowered the fuel pressure, installed the CAI, but still this problem persists.

I've been doing some reading on the web, specifically regarding heat soak and webers. Some folks say that they simply lower the float settings, so the needle valve closes earlier and this fixes their issue (can't see how that works, but OK).

Another potential cause is the power valve. On the 32/34 dft the power valve uses a spring against a diaphram, the diaphram has a pin that pushes a check ball against another, lighter spring. So, apparently the power valve is open when the engine is not running. Intake vacuum pulls the membrane and compresses the larger spring to close the power valve. At idle, when vacuum is higher, the power valve is closed. At load, when vacuum is lower, the power valve opens and dumps gas into the secondary venturi. I believe the spring rating for the power valve should be about half what your idle speed intake vacuum is. Some folks on various Weber boards say that they had the same heat soak issue and simply put a weaker spring in the power valve so it was closed under weaker vacuum.

Well, I noticed today that one of my power valve covers has a "2" embossed on it, and the other has a "5" embossed on it. I believe this means one of my power valves as a 2 lb spring and the other has a 5 lb spring. I have a couple spare DFT's, they both had "4" on embossed on the power valve covers, so I swapped them out so my carbs both have the same spring tension in the power valve (presumably). Anyway, I can buy springs from McMaster with various (known) tensions.

I've been reading alot about Webers, but the information is often contradictory (or may depend on different carb models). For example, some folks say the power valve feeds the accelerator pump on the carb, but I looked closely at mine, it appears to dump straight into the secondary venturi when open. Some folks take the spring out altogether, but I'm not ready to go that far, as these Webers run fantastic other than this flooding issue.

I set my floats lower, I'll see if that does anything first.

MPFI is getting more and more on my radar...

brian

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I was so obsessed with my heat soak issue, I forgot to mention, the CAI does seem to provide a bit more power. I noticed it on the highway; I push the gas as I normally would to get about 60 mph or so cruising speed. I looked down and I was doing 85 mph. It might not be much, but it's noticeable power increase. I doubt it's what the CAI folks often suggest, but perhaps 5-10 hp, 2-5% gain perhaps.

b

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...as my (very likely) final stab at solving the heat soak issue, at least the traffic one, I installed a recirculation line in my fuel supply. I believe SlantSix Dan suggested this one, credit his way.

Here are a few pics:

I moved the fuel pressure regulator further away from the radiator. As you can see, I now have only one line running from it and, though I had SS braided lines with Teflon cores, I sleeved them with Hot Rod sleeve heat shielding.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... r.jpg.html

Second pic, shows how I routed the line/plumbed to the carbs with T's.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 5.jpg.html

Finally, it exits past the firewall, where I have a pressure gauge to measure the pressure.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... p.jpg.html

OK, here is where my budget mindedness came into the equation. The downstream line meant that I had no fuel pressure, the downstream regulators for 1-4psi were like $165, but....I simply pinched my metal return line until I had the proper pressure at the gauge...cost, $0. Not sophisticated, but it reads steady (low) pressure for the Webers and fuel is running through there at a good clip, the fittings are all cool to the touch when the pump is going.

So, I hope this perhaps addresses my traffic heat soak, flooding situation. If the gas is sitting in the lines too long, as I'm only idling, and boils, this should correct that, both the flow rate and the heat shield sleeves, no more static gas in the lines.

The fuel line runs from the tank, down along the frame rail on the spark plug side of the engine where it's cooler, up to the regulator (which in this case isn't really doing anything, but it wasn't worth moving at this point), then the line to the carbs is fully heat sheilded and doesn't touch anything. The old setup had the lines resting on the front edge of the valve cover, now it floats in mid-air about an inch or so from anything. The line passes past the float bowls, again heat shielded, then to the firewall. I put heat sleeve on that section only because it was the SS braided line and I didn't want it to rub against the firewall. The rest is nickel copper line back to the sending unit return line. Nickel copper line is easy peasy to bend, no need for a tubing bender, it will not kink and you can feed it through holes like fishing romex in your house walls. I did use rubber grommets where it passes through the frame rails or whatever. It is next to the original fuel line for the most part.

BTW, boy those silicone hoses collect/attract dust! It's a shame they don't make 4" rubber hose; at least I couldn't find any.

Brian

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