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| Author: | kielbasa [ Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:18 pm ] |
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Question. What should be the correct way to adjust the vaccum pod? Vc185 I was 2 turns out, and recently upped it to 3 turns out. Still doesn't ping during normal driving even up hill. But still fighting the WOT pinging. Currently at 10-11 degrees initial |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | Wot |
At WOT there is no "vacuum" (or if the carb is undersized you will have a little "vacuum", so adjusting the pod will not make a difference, that leaves you with: - Too much mechanical timing or most likely -Main jetting too lean/ Economizer Circuit (Power Valve) is not coming on at the rated vacuum reading/ Economizer Circuit is not providing added fuel or not enough fuel to keep the mix slightly rich... Which carb are you currently running? |
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Mon Mar 21, 2016 1:25 pm ] |
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I'm aware the pod makes no difference for my main issue. I asked about pod in the way it's ment to be setup. Would I keep turning turns out till it pings during normal driving? Then turn a turn back? I'm running a carter bbs. I've tried 2 different carter's and also 2 different holleys. They all have same effect. The current carter I'm running has the largest bore then any of the others I have. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Mar 21, 2016 4:58 pm ] |
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I still don't think you're barking up the right tree; I'm sticking by my suspicion that exhaust restriction (e.g., an internally-collapsed muffler) is to blame. |
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:45 pm ] |
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I hear ya dan. I'll plan to do an exhaust fairly soon. It was always on the to do list. I was thinking 2.25" all the way back to single muffler with an 2" exit. Would this be the way to go? Any ideas on what muffler to go with? I'm not really wanting something hotrod loud as its pretty much a grandma grocery getter. Just something that will perform and not sound terrible or obnoxious for the build. Also still waiting for correct way to set vacuum pod. Do I want it turned out as far as possible without pinging during normal driving? I have zero issues with ping until WOT. so wouldn't mind to get low and mid range in the right spot till I figure out highend. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Mar 21, 2016 11:30 pm ] |
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Quote: Any ideas on what muffler to go with?
What model of vehicle is it?
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Tue Mar 22, 2016 2:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
65 valiant 2dr post 225 .060 over Oregon cam #125 (reverse dual pattern) 7.8:1cr Stock intake and exhaust manifolds |
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Thu Mar 24, 2016 12:28 pm ] |
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Any recommendations for the exhaust? Does 2.25 from manifold to muffler, and 2" tail pipe sound reasonable? How about muffler. Let's take this to the next level to fix this fkn ping! |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Mar 24, 2016 1:32 pm ] |
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Ah, sorry, meant to look back at this thread. 2" pipe off of each of the two exhaust manifolds, into this wye connector, 2-1/4" pipe from there to this muffler. It's in Walker's QuietFlow SS premium OE line, all stainless steel (which is nice for durability), made for the '01 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 so it's easily got the flow capacity for a healthy 225 and it's tuned to keep an inline-6's exhaust from droning, has a 2¼" inlet and outlet (can easily step down to a 2" tailpipe). The inlet has a 2-bolt flange meant to bolt directly to the outlet of the Jeep's catalytic converter, but there's plenty of length to the input pipe that the flange can just be sawed off in 5 seconds at the exhaust shop. It's got the 4¼" × 9¾" housing, muffler shell 20" long, so it'll be a bit of a tight fit in an A-body, but it will fit. 2" tailpipe with resonator. If I'm rich, I like a Flowmaster HP2 stainless unit with 2" in and out. It's 18" long, which is a workable fit behind most A-body quarter panels. If I'm broke, I like a Walker № 17198 4" round can-type unit, 2" in and 2" out, with offset outlet next to a proper hanger bracket. Speaking of that, whatever muffler you wind up with, make sure to use very soft hangers. The hook-and-O-ring type, for example. Today's popular "rod and rubber box" type transmits a lot of noise to the passenger compartment. (Tailspout outlet 45° or greater downward.) |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Thu Mar 24, 2016 2:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: ....... The inlet has a 2-bolt flange meant to bolt directly to the outlet of the Jeep's catalytic converter, but there's plenty of length to the input pipe that the flange can just be .....
Or just leave it, and weld a flange to the center pipe section........ |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Mar 24, 2016 6:26 pm ] |
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Yup, could do that too. Benefit: E-Z exhaust system dismantling for other undercar/underhood work. Drawback: potential leak point. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Thu Mar 24, 2016 6:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can pretty much eliminate it leaking by extending the front pipe beyond the flange and inserting into the rear pipe a little...... Also keeps the pipes aligned........ |
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| Author: | kielbasa [ Thu Mar 24, 2016 10:59 pm ] |
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I'm confused to the recommendation as it doesn't really pertain to my application. Sounds like your talking about dutra dual set up? I am using stock exhaust manifold. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Mar 25, 2016 12:07 am ] |
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Musta had a crossed wire in my head. 2-1/4" pipe off the exhaust manifold to the muffler, then. Rest of recommendation same. |
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