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Covalt - "Project 65 Valiant"
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35632		 Page 38 of 124
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Thu Jan 17, 2013 12:28 pm ]
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Hey Mark, Great to see you around here a bit!
Quote:
he goofed and built a head that got me a 11.42 na and 10.57 on the spray.
Yes, I am saving my $$$ to get a head from Mike. That will probably be a Jan 2013 project. I will be happy to do a head comparison on my car without any other changes. No, scratch that! i will need a cam change to take real advantage of the head!

Rick
Author:  slantzilla [ Thu Jan 17, 2013 1:05 pm ]
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Rick, I have a Jeffrey head I will loan you if you want it. No, it's not for sale. :D
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Thu Jan 17, 2013 2:00 pm ]
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Quote:
Yes, I am saving my $$$ to get a head from Mike. That will probably be a Jan 2013 project.
Rick

WATCHU TALKIN 'BOUT WILLIS?

IT IS JANUARY 2013.


Get a Jeffery Head on there!... Borrow Big D's


Just dont buy it, cause it's not for sale.. I cant blame the guy.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Thu Jan 17, 2013 3:42 pm ]
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Quote:
Rick, I have a Jeffrey head I will loan you if you want it.
That is quite the offer Dennis. I really do appreciate it, but I'd be afraid something would happen to it. And you know I just would not want to take it off once it was on! I'll just keep moving ahead with my head as planned. But thanks anyway!

Greg, I can't even remember my name sometimes! :lol: So it is no big thing if I don't know what year it is! Correct number would be 2014.

I'm thinking that the 65's came out in 1964, so 2014 would be the 50th anniversary for my car. That would be a good year to run a 12.99 ET.

Rick
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:29 pm ]
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12.99 Fo' Sho.


Greg
Author:  bmimken [ Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:50 am ]
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Rick, glad to see you are making a lot of progress on the car! Can't wait to see you driving it down the track! :twisted:

Brian
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Jan 26, 2013 11:39 am ]
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Thanks Brian,
I am going full steam ahead!!! I hope you have made some progress on tuning yours too!

I got the Block / crank /rods back from the machine shop last evening. The first thing I did was set the head on the block and scribe marks around the bores to see how the head lined up.(If I did not do this right away, I know I would have forgotten) It needs to be shifted forward and towards the Intake side. I ordered offset dowels to do the job. I set my heater up under the block and after about a half hour it was nice and toasty and ready for a coat of paint. Installed the stand pipes in the lifter galley also.

Now I'll go back to finishing up the exhaust ports on the head. Once the head is finished, I'll install the Cam and crank and check the clearances. One piston will be installed and get the deck height and then I can get the head cut to get me to @ 10.6 CR


Parts list + price

Complete 68-70 engine------------------$35 E-Bay
Reconditioned 198 rods - ---------------$90 PAW years ago
New 2.8L chevy pistons / Rings -------$35 E-Bay
Reground Cam .513/506 / 290 -------$87 Oregon Cams
Modified oil pump and hardened gear--$75 Doc
New Lifters -------------------------------$24 E-Bay
New Chromoloy Push Rods-------------$46 E-Bay
Engine Builder Valves -------------------$87 E-Bay
New Valve Springs ----------------------- $46 E-Bay
Cylinder head work -----------------------$200 Machine shop
Sonic check block ------------------------$ Free

JP Billet timing set -----------------------$79 E-Bay
Clevite Rod Bearings---------------------$19 E-Bay
Clevite Mains -----------------------------$ 38 E-Bay
Cam Bearings -----------------------------$ 22 Rock Auto
Felpro Gasket set -------------------------$54 Rock Auto
Windage Tray & Scraper -----------------$ 235 Mike Jeffrey
ARP Rod Bolts ---------------------------$ 57 E-Bay

Machine shop work -------------------- $630 Boring, decking, cooking, cam bearing, resize rods and install pistons, grind crank .030/.030

If my math is right I'm at $1860 . The only machining left is the final cut on the head which is @ $90.
So my final total on this engine should be right around $1950 which should put me solidly into the 13's

More to come,
Rick
Author:  1974duster kev [ Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:24 pm ]
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Good stuff Rick!

Kev
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Feb 02, 2013 11:41 am ]
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I have been out of commission for about a week with my back again. Not even sure how I hurt it! :?

But I avoided the garage until this morning, when I had Micah come to the garage and help me set the crank in and check my clearances, and then I stuck in one piston to check my deck height. I was thinking I would be about .010 - .015 in the hole and it turned out to be .023. So once I get done in the chambers I can cut the head to get me to 10.6 -10.9 CR.

Mike Jeffrey called and is sending my tray and scraper next week, and DI is sending the new distributor for this engine also. So I am making progress. Kind of getting anxious!! :lol: :lol:

Rick
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:40 pm ]
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Here is a couple pictures (Boy I hate the new Photobucket)

Image

This is a little blurry because it is hard to get a flash picture looking down the cylinder. You can see the purple dye is much wider to the top and left. The head was shifted about .025 using offset cam bushings.

Image
The stand pipes I made were just about 1" length, with a notch cut in the top. Tool I made to tighten them up is on the right. there isn't much room down in the lifter galley to get a tool.
Image
Installed stand pipes.
Image
Again you can see the scribe mark on the head and how it was shifted.

All my porting is done and I checked the chamber volume at 57CC. I think I will have cut to about 55CC and that should put me right at 10.9 to 1 CR

Am I remembering correct that .006 is approximately 1CC ?

Thanks Rick
Author:  Rob Simmons [ Wed Feb 13, 2013 7:51 am ]
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Purdy! :D
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Mon Feb 18, 2013 5:03 pm ]
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Pulled the head back off and pulled out my 2 valves. Re-mounted the head and put the piston at TDC. I took an old valve and cut the head off and put a point on it. Dropped it down number one Intake and Exhaust guide and made a punch mark in the top of the piston. This mark is for the machine shop to know where the valve centerline is. I will drop the pistons off and have a .100 notch cut into them. That will give me enough clearance to install the cam that Mike and I talked about on the phone next year or whenever I get ready.

Measured my crank gear/cam gear misalignment at .095. Lou will cut the back side down on his lathe for me next weekend.

I had hoped to have the short block all assembled this week, but I'd rather try and do it right and get it done a couple weeks late!

Rick

Timing gear alignment thread is here http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... 8&start=15
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:57 pm ]
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Had a great time at the banquet over the weekend and returned with my lower timing gear newly machined with .060 off the rear face. I installed it and it looks much better.

Also needed to notch the pistons and the machine shop that was going to cut my pistons forgot that they were already on the rods.He needs them off, and then you risk breaking a piston. So I was going to use his tool to cut the notches while they were in the block. But he had no cutters even close to what I needed. So I just made my own. With some big block valves and some adhesive backed 80 grit long board sand paper. I dropped the 2 valves in the head and got some 3/8" collars with a allen head lock screw in them to adjust my depth of cut.

I took it slow and it still takes less than 2 minutes to make a cut .100 depth. I need to go over them a little and smooth them some more and there is a small ridge at the bottom of the cut that I need to work on with the Dremel, but all in all I think they will be just fine. Total cost for my tools was less than $10. (I had the valves)

Rick
Image
Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 6:45 pm ]
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nice job and great idea on cutting reliefs
Author:  Dart270 [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 6:53 pm ]
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Very nice, and way prettier than what I did freehand with a die grinder...

Lou
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