Hers your carb,number
1975 dodge truck fed ,auto
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Wed Aug 17, 2016 9:56 am ] |
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Quote: Yes I do. I have the fat insulating gasket under it (I think it's 3/8" thick)
Good. You can put a small kink in the choke rod if you really must make it shorter.
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| Author: | Dave145 [ Wed Aug 17, 2016 10:27 am ] |
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I put a slight "z" bend in the rod before I left for work this morning. I'll see how it starts when I get home. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Aug 17, 2016 6:48 pm ] |
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The factory '73+ chokes aren't designed to be adjustable; you can make crude rod-bending efforts, but these will usually create at least one new problem for every old problem they sorta-kinda solve. I think the reason you're having trouble getting the choke to open and the idle to simmer down is that the choke thermostat and pushrod for the Holley 1945 is not the same as the one for the 1920. Mismatch = bindup. The original-type choke you'd need to run a 1920 without these problems on a '74 or later Slant-6 is the one-year-only '73 item. Better (and fully adjustable!): a № 1231 Electric choke kit which will drop right on, hook up correctly to your 1920 carb, and allow you to dial in the right amount and duration of choke operation. |
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| Author: | Dave145 [ Wed Aug 17, 2016 7:22 pm ] |
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The more I look at that choke kit the more I want it. I found that the fast idle cam was binding on the screw that holds it to the carb. Loosened it up and cleaned it off and now it pivots way easier. Guess now I'll know if the choke works next time I start it! In the meantime, did those carb numbers make any sense to anyone? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Aug 17, 2016 7:43 pm ] |
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They might make sense to me if I could find my dingblast Holley master cattledog! |
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| Author: | Dave145 [ Sat Aug 20, 2016 7:03 am ] |
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Hey everyone I'm back. This car I think is trying to drive me insane. So last night I took it to a car show about an hour away. First highway test after the carb swap. And it went predictably bad. So here's what's up. From a standing stop, start to accelerate and there's a quick brief stutter. Otherwise drives fine....until you're in third gear and want to speed up (going from 35mph speed zone to 45mph zone). Push down on the gas and...nothing. Motor doesn't rev, speed stays the same, car acts like its just content cruising. Only way to accelerate is put your foot on the floor and wait for it to finally move. Fuel economy? Forget it. 34 miles to 1/4 tank of gas. Figured it was too rich and is over jetted or had accelerator pump too rich. Checked jet, it's the factory 621 (basically a close range 62). Moved accelerator pump one hole forward (thought I'd get less shot that way...did some reading this morning I learned I gave it MORE shot). Didn't change the jet yet because I don't have a 58 to drop in and try. On the ride home, it was a bit better. Stutter isn't as noticeable and accelerates on the highway now. 1/8 tank of gas to get home (another 34 miles). That being said, I can still feel the power drop off when my foot is halfway to the floor. It accelerates fine until then, but then starts to become a turd after that. So that being said, any advice? I'm going to get a 58 jet this afternoon and will reset accelerator pump shot to stock position before I put it in. I'll also be getting a carb kit to rebuild this thing and clean it out. then we shall see how it runs! |
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| Author: | Dave145 [ Sat Aug 20, 2016 4:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Carb rebuilt now... |
Carb is finally rebuilt and installed. Rebuilt using a walker kit from oreilly auto parts. Dirty as hell in there! Cleaned, sprayed, and chased every passage I could see with carb cleaner and compressed air. Reassembled and reinstalled. Set accelerator pump back to mid hole as well and free up choke linkage a bit more. While at I was under the hood I made sure to verify a few more things: 1. The heat riser does work. When cold, it snaps back shut if I rotate the weight and let go. When warm and truly hot, it relaxes and opens all the way. 2. Re-checked timing. Currently set to 6* BTDC. Had it at 8* and it was sluggish. Set with vacuum advance line off and plugged. After all this, the car pulls 18in of vacuum at 850rpms in park. Nice smooth idle. Off a red light while driving, still has slight (and I mean super slight) stutter off idle but actually accelerates now. |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Sun Aug 21, 2016 4:16 pm ] |
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Hers your carb,number 1975 dodge truck fed ,auto
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Aug 21, 2016 6:33 pm ] |
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Good info from Matv91. This means your carb is not original to your car. I wouldn't sweat about that; if you can make it run well (and it sounds like you're well on the way there) then that's what matters. |
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| Author: | Dave145 [ Sun Aug 21, 2016 7:30 pm ] |
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Well I'll be damned. Who knew? Currently I have my 1920 on it and it's running pretty well so the original carb idea is out the window for now haha. Today's update: Removed the cat. Looks clean enough, but either way it's out. However upon disassembly, I found the flange right before where the cat was leaking. It's all sooty. No wonder where the buzzing sound came from! I thought it was normal for some reason. I'll get some flange sealant tomorrow afternoon and seal that all up. So now the heat riser works, the cat is out, the 1920 is rebuilt, and a recheck of the brakes shows they aren't dragging. 18" of vacuum, 850 rpms in park, idle screw 2 turns out, trans adjusted so it shifts at the right times (was shifting a bit late). Even replaced the fuel filter! I'll likely be filling up end of week or so so we will see how mileage is. But first, I need to fix that annoying buzzing! |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Aug 22, 2016 1:23 pm ] |
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Quote: idle screw 2 turns out
Setting the idle screw some specific number of turns out is not the right way to adjust the idle mixture. This procedure gets you much closer to accuracy.
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| Author: | Dave145 [ Tue Aug 23, 2016 6:39 am ] |
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As always Dan, good material. Dialed in the carb per your instructions and it's running real good. Though I have to admit it was pretty close the way I had it.  Guess that about sums it up for now. Have to source a choke rod from a car with a 1920 carb though. When first started in the morning, it's way rich. Granted I only drive the car in the summer, but it'd be nice to have it idle nicely at start up. I've noticed the idle (even on the high idle cams too steps) only clears up when the choke blade is held wide open. Even on the coldest morning (today it was 54* outside) it only wanted to idle nicely with the choke all the way open. Guess if it ain't one thing it's another! |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Aug 23, 2016 9:04 am ] |
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Quote: Have to source a choke rod from a car with a 1920 carb though. When first started in the morning, it's way rich.
Have you adjusted the vacuum operated choke pulloff linkage? As soon as the engine starts the choke should be pulled ROUGHLY 1/4 inch open,but the specific amount will vary between carbs and between calibraitons (year, emissions package, etc...).
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| Author: | Dave145 [ Tue Aug 23, 2016 10:45 am ] |
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Yes I have checked it. It opens to just under a 1/4" on start up. Choke pull off works - I verified this with a vacuum gauge as well to make sure it held vacuum. The only way the car really wants to idle with the choke on is if I hold the choke almost halfway open even at initial start up. Any less or more open and it runs real rough. I will have to have another look at the carb manual for it and make sure Its adjusted right. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:01 am ] |
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If you're running a 1920 instead of the 1945 carb for the long term, then the Electric choke kit you need is a № 1231. |
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