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Covalt - "Project 65 Valiant"
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35632		 Page 49 of 124
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Nov 10, 2013 3:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I think ARP would want to know,and evaluate the items.
I agree. Once I get all the parts out of the pan, I can contact them and get their opinion on what might have happened.

Romeo- Check your PM's
Author:  CNC-Dude [ Sun Nov 10, 2013 7:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
I had forgotten about the knock off rod bolts that are going around in the last few years. Genuine ARP rod bolts have the instructions skin packaged inside the shrink wrap packaging and you can see them thru the packaging and the lube is stuck to the back of the package in its own wrapping as shown in the above pic. That is their trademark signature and the easy way to authenticate you have the "Real Deal" and genuine ARP products. They have a very strict QC process and is doubtful that this type of flaw would have gotten out without being detected. I would question the source you bought the bolts from before I would question ARP. ARP knows the importance of supplying their products with instructions and the lube required so you don't have any issues, and to not get them would make me suspect a counterfeit product.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Fri Nov 22, 2013 6:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
It has been about 2 weeks since I really posted an update on my grenaded engine. But I have been busy tinkering with the car a little each day. I have a nice looking engine that I picked up a few weeks back that I am going to put in my car. I tore it down and it is nice and clean inside. I put rings and bearings in it and slid in a .470 lift cam that I had lying on the shelf. After I get my head back from the machine shop I will put in on the engine and run it for next season. Over the next year or so I will gather up the K1 / Wiesco parts and start building another race motor with my new Jeffrey head.

I did get the short block out of the car yesterday and tore it down today. The pictures will speak for themselves. I still don't know what started it but I have a little better idea of what happened after the initial "kaboom".

Image

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This is the other half of the rod that broke. ARP bolt still in tact

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Same piece looking towards the oil hole

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Other side of the same piece

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Once the rod broke this is where it ended up

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That stopped the camshaft and broke off the dowel pin and the bolt to the cam

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But before they broke off it twisted all the teeth on the crank gear

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With the cam stopped and crank spinning, 3 valves touched the top of the pistons

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One hit hard enough to bend the valve

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Rod bearings all looked pretty bad for a motor with less than 40 runs on it. Heavy wear at the parting line would be due to me not having the rods resized I suppose.

I did check the torque on all the rods and one was 45# and all the others were 50#. I think 50 is what ARP called for. Side clearance on the rods was between .015 and .025 on the 5 remaining rods.
Author:  CNC-Dude [ Fri Nov 22, 2013 8:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Rick, do the 198 rods have the spit hole in the B/E. If so, it is widely known in other engine brands that have rods of that design, that they are very undesirable for use in performance applications because of their failure potential. And they should be avoided at all costs. I didn't know that they were like that or I would have suggested looking at that first instead of the rod bolt as the cause of the failure.
Author:  USAJon [ Sat Nov 23, 2013 3:49 am ]
Post subject: 
how does the oil pump drive gear look?
cam oil drive gear look?
does the oil pump still spin?

the rod caps bearings look like an issue.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:22 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Rick, do the 198 rods have the spit hole in the B/E.
Yes, I thought all factory rods have the hole?
Quote:
how does the oil pump drive gear look?
cam oil drive gear look?
Oil pump gear looks good. Cam has a little wear. I'll have to check to oil pump. I just slid it out. I never tried spinning.
Author:  CNC-Dude [ Mon Nov 25, 2013 9:35 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:


Yes, I thought all factory rods have the hole?

Not sure about all of them. I know that with some Ford and Chevy rods that have the spit holes, hotrodders avoid using them because they always fail. Every person i've ever seen try to build even a moderate level performance engine using rods with spit holes ended up breaking a rod right in the spit hole just as yours did. Right where the hole is located in the beam weakens it substantially and it doesn't take much additional load to show exactly how weak it is. I wished I had followed your build more closely, I would have advised against using them had I known that.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Tue Nov 26, 2013 7:56 am ]
Post subject: 
Scott, I don't doubt that they would be stronger without the hole, but there have been piles of engines built with factory rods, that have substantially more power than I was making. With the recent addition of the K1 rods that seems like the best way to go for sure.

Obviously they can break! I have a nice pile of cast iron and steel for the scrap yard as proof.

Rick
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Mon Jan 27, 2014 2:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Starting over again
This will be the 3rd season I have raced my car and the 3rd motor change. One by choice, when Ryan bought my original motor and now engine 3 because engine number 2 went kaboom!!

Things have been moving very slowly for the last month especially since going back to work. This cold weather winter is a killer for us at work!

But back to the car. For the 2014 season I will be running a basically stock bottom end 225 with a .470 lift Howards cam I had on the shelf. I just got my big valve cylinder head back from the machine shop and it did have 3 bent valves which of course were replaced. I had them take some more off of it for about .065 total. I had all the parts on the shelf for the re-ring and bearings as well as a new timing chain. I think the only thing I had to buy was the Engine builder valves and a gasket set. RPM will be kept down on this motor but it should still run some low 15- high 14's. Still fast enough to be fun.
Then over the next year I will accumulate my parts for my K1/ Weisco/Jeffrey motor. I see no reason not to put motor 4 in at the end of this season. I'm getting good at it now!! :lol: :lol:

One quick note about Ted (Engine Builder valves) I sent him an e-mail and told him that I had a need for an extra set (1 intake & 1 exhaust valve) He said no problem and sent them right out to me. Then last week I found out that I actually needed one more Intake valve. With a simple e-mail he said he would take care of getting it too me! Great guy to work with! Glad to have him making us an affordable drop in valve!
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:52 am ]
Post subject:  Progress
Yesterday I got the cylinder head back on my motor and degreed the camshaft. Just lining up the dots put me at 104 intake centerline and the cam calls for 106, so I left where it was. I re-checked all the torque specs on the rods and mains and bolted on the pan. I installed the oil pump, fuel pump, and water pump as well as the motor mounts. I think that it is about ready to go back into the car. :lol:

I am running out of time and with another motor change to my truck needed, I may not run the hyper pak on this engine. It will be faster and easier to run my headers and Clifford intake than to make the changes needed to run the Hype-Pak.

Before I drop the motor in I want to re-route my Battery cable from the trunk to the engine bay and check out the Line locks. Denny said they did not work on that final, fatal run.

Hope to have the car running by the weekend for sure.

Rick
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sun Mar 16, 2014 1:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
And with all that progress you can go racing again if the weather ever lets up.


Greg
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Mar 16, 2014 1:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yeah, I want to try and get down to the Street night drags in mid April if not before. Will you be ready in a month? :lol:

Rick
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sun Mar 16, 2014 1:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Yeah, I want to try and get down to the Street night drags in mid April if not before. Will you be ready in a month? :lol:

Rick
Probably not.
Next Saturday I have work so there is a day lost. :-(


Greg
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Mar 29, 2014 8:59 am ]
Post subject:  Bad news
I fired up the new motor today, and thought I'd be ready to put the hood on and run her down the road in a little bit. But before I ran it too long I backed it outside and wanted to degrease everything from when it grenaded last fall. The frame, headers & everything on the drivers side had a coating of oil/anti-freeze so I wanted to get that off before the engine got to hot. So I took care of that and fired her back up. While all the water /steam was cooking off the headers and engine, it stopped dead in it's tracks. I hoped it was moisture somewhere but it was not. It shut off because it has no oil pressure and my low pressure cut off, shut the ignition down. I overrode the pressure switch and started it for just about 2-3 seconds and no pressure.

This is a stock bottom end that I just put new standard bearings in and added one of Doc's blue printed pumps. I used the same pick up and pan that were in the car before. The car ran for maybe 2 or 3 minutes before it shut down. Pump had about 50# oil pressure.

I guess I will pull the headers and intake and try and jack the motor to the drivers side, and see if the pump will come out without pulling the motor again. Any ideas welcome.

Rick
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Mar 29, 2014 11:17 am ]
Post subject:  More info
Before I pulled anything off of the motor, I took off the oil filter and cranked the motor over with a remote starter switch. As soon as it cranked I have a plenty of oil coming up from the pan. I filled the filter as best I could and screwed it back on. Cranked again for 10-15 seconds and still no pressure. When I removed the filter again it had pressure built up under it, and you could here it escape out.

So now what? Is there something clogged up downstream of the filter? What can be causing back pressure? I guess I will pull the pressure relief valve and take a look at that next. Not sure if that could be the issue or not.
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