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Pics of Eileen-the stroker motor- now withDynoSheets/YouTube
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21869		 Page 7 of 30
Author:  Sam Powell [ Sat Jun 02, 2007 5:57 am ]
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Do you have a header? What stall RPM is your converter? Sorry if that is posted earlier and I missed it.
Sam
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Sat Jun 02, 2007 6:23 am ]
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Welding up the slots. I ve seen pictures of it, but is there a way to tell how much without reinstalling it and checking total timing, pulling it back out of the engine weldingsome more or grinding it back out? Another words is it blind trial and error? Maybe a link to the procedger. I have searched and there is tons of conflicing info.

Just the Dutra half Dual.
2500 stall convertor, the highest stall I could get with a small input shaft trans.
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sat Jun 02, 2007 6:41 am ]
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The distributer can be set up on a machine. I got one for free, but haven't had a chance to do some repairs it needs. Call around to some speed shops, and see if any one has a machine, or knows where there is a shop with one.
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2500 stall convertor, the highest stall I could get with a small input shaft trans.
Not so. I have a converter that will stall over 3,000 on a 170 and about 4,000 on a 225, but 2500 should be OK for a street driver.
Author:  emsvitil [ Sat Jun 02, 2007 11:28 am ]
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You can wrap safety wire around the end of the slot if you only want a slighty shorter slot................
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sat Jun 02, 2007 12:39 pm ]
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Shoe Goo carefully used will work. Its also easy to machine out or add to.
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Sat Jun 02, 2007 7:31 pm ]
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Took her to the car show which is about a 40 min drive oneway. Topped it off with more 110 octane. (25%93 and 75%110) No pinging that I could hear. I babied it there in terms of throttle position. (never more than 1/2 throttle) Started off cold and ran great in terms of driveability in town to stop and go for the first 10 miles. (no stalling) Get on the highway and cruize along at 3200 rpm, which by the way seems like about 65-70mph, and all is well. 25 mins. later I exit the highway and come down to about 15 mph and it stalls. Turn the key and it fires right back to life. It stalls just rolling along at 15-20mph. It stalls at every red light and fires right back up no problem. When it stalls its idleing around 950 rpm and not sound at all like it should stall and like I switched the key off, it stops. It never stumbles, it just sounds great until its no longer running.
The car sat at the car show 4 hours and ran great after the cruize out. Back on the highway and the first time I slowed down it stalled. If I drive with two feet it will stay running.
Also found that the exhaust is painting the rear bumper and truck on the left side gray. The tailpipe openning is NOT black but gray. Oil level is dead on full just like it was when I left. It seems to burn alot of fuel too.
I think I am going to skip the next car show and get it to the tuner before anymore driving. I'd hate to wash the rings out of it.
You'd think it would have been tune pretty close considering I paid for engine dynoing and tuning already. I guess you get what you paid for. I guess $400 for the day doesn't buy much. I thought that was cheap and I guess it was.

On a side note about oil pressure.
Engine cold and using Rotella T 15-40 I have 43-45 psi at all RPMs
After a 40 min drive the oil pressure at 4000 rpm is 39psi, 3000 rpm its 37psi and at 1400 rpm its 25psi. Do these pressures seem a pinch on the low side?
Author:  Sam Powell [ Sat Jun 02, 2007 7:52 pm ]
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They are a tad on the low side, but not to worry. It is plenty in my opinion. I had a Pontiac race car back in the day (no don;t ask what day :lol: ) and it ran 15 lbs at idle, and 40 at 2000. It was NEVER a problem. I put many HARD miles on the car, a quarter mile at a time.

My slant idles at 50 when it is cold, and at 40 when it is warm. It goes up to fifty at cruise RPM's. I had it to the local cruise tonight, and that is what it did tonight. Again, I would not worry about your oil pressure. Everyone kept telling me over and over again about my Pontiac, "oil pressure is oil pressure", and low pressure will coat the bearings as well as high pressure. Volume is another issue, and as long as the pressure goes up with the RPM, you have enough volume.
Author:  dakight [ Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:06 pm ]
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The '62 FSM indicates that normal operating pressure should be 45-65 lbs at 40-50 mph. That was probably with straight 30w. Multigrade oil might drop that a bit. It's definitely on the low side but I'm not sure that it's anything to be alarmed about. You can get that much variation from one gauge or sending unit to the next. Of more concern is whether oil is freely circulating to all parts of the engine. Just a thought, have you changed the oil and filter since the initial break-in run? A clogged filter will drop the oil pressure by 7-9 lbs when the relief valve opens.
Author:  Sam Powell [ Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:57 pm ]
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Here are some things to think about concerning your stalling. Are your floats high enough, and is the timing stable at idle? At idle, see if the timing holds steady at the initial timing spec. If it bounces around, you are getting some centrifigal advance at idle. If you are getting centrifigal at idle, then when the idle drops a little low, the timing also drops with it, and then the engine dies. Make sure you have two springs on your centrifigal. If you have taken off one to get quicker advance, that can lead to this problem. Make sure at least one of your springs is tight when the weights are collapsed. Also, make sure your vacuum advance is hooked up to ported vacuum, not manifold. When the engine stumbles with the vacuum advance hooked up to manifold, then the vacuum drops, and again the timing drops. This lowers the RPM further, and the engine goes in to a death spiral that kills it pronto.

Low fuel bowl floats can also cause stalling when decellerating. I would think about how steady your voltage is as well. Are you losing a volt or so when the engine returns to idle. Are ou getting a voltage drop accross your old ameter? I switched to a GM one wire altenator, fed directly to the battery, for this very reason. Combine a voltage drop, with low fuel float, and unstable timing, and you will be hard pressed to keep it idling when you lift your foot off the gas.
Sam
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sat Jun 02, 2007 9:26 pm ]
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Quote:
On a side note about oil pressure.
Engine cold and using Rotella T 15-40 I have 43-45 psi at all RPMs
After a 40 min drive the oil pressure at 4000 rpm is 39psi, 3000 rpm its 37psi and at 1400 rpm its 25psi. Do these pressures seem a pinch on the low side?
Rule of thumb, is 10psi for every 1,000 rpm. You are pretty close. Most of the slants, I have built run 50-60 at 2,000 rpm or higher, and 40 to 50 at 1,000 rpm, normal temp, 10-30 oil, and a stock aftermarket (7/8 inch rotor) oil pump, not a high volumm pump.
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Sun Jun 03, 2007 4:38 am ]
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Hey Doc
What was the rotor size on that AL body 6 bolt oil pump I bought from you?

Voltage is a steady 13.5 + volts.
I need to look at the timing, but I really think I having and fuel problem here.

Can boiling the fuel cause this stalling? I have always thought that if I fires right back up then its not a vapor loc or fuel boiling issues. One time with the hood up, idleing (1050 rpm) it stalls while I was watching the fuel pressure gauge. It was hanging out at 4lbs and stay there even after it stalled.

I am going to measure to see if I can fit an insulated spacer under the carb and still close the hood. I think the hood mat with compress at least a 1/4"
Author:  Sam Powell [ Sun Jun 03, 2007 5:14 am ]
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OK, maybe you have eliminated the volts issue. I suspect that your idle is so high that you never get below the efficient range of a Mopar alternator, which tend to drop off output, when the get down below 800 RPM. Maybe you should watch your voltage as you lower your idle somewhat. Does it still stay up to 13.5?

So if fuel is your problem, it is not the supply. It is on the carb side of the needle and seat for the float. I would still check that timing to see if it is bouncing at idle. Just watch it for a few minutes. If it fluctuates at all, then you likely are getting some bounce in your weights and springs, which is bad. The weights may be partly extended at idle, which means they can close in a little and kill the engine. . Have you set your floats? Is it a Holley carb? Can you just take the plugs out and watch the fuel seep out of the plug opening?

Problems like this are seldom caused by what we don;t know, but by what we know for sure. In my case, a brand new fuel pressure regulator had to be good right? So I "Knew for sure" that was not the problem. IN other words, don;t take anything for granted. Keep every option on the table until you know for sure it is OK.

What is the longest thread on record here on the Forum?

Sam
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Sun Jun 03, 2007 6:03 am ]
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I am wondering if checking side and end play in the distributor is in order. What is the story on it? Used? New?

Maybe the magnetic pickup? Might be getting too hot, going bad. Definately check the gaps.

I need to see why mine pings. Other pressing things to do right now. Never done a compression check on mine.
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Sun Jun 03, 2007 7:19 pm ]
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Quote:
I am wondering if checking side and end play in the distributor is in order. What is the story on it? Used? New?
The distributor is new from the guy that Dan recommends online. (maybe jack something at AOL) I guess that dosen't mean its in good shape.

Bought a dial back timing light the other day to replace my nondial back light and checked the timing today. Found that total timing (without vac hose, hose has been disconnected and plugged from the beginning.) was still 35 degrees even after I watched the dyno guy and his old old light set it at 31 degrees for "a safer setting for the street". I moved it to 28 total. At idle (1000rpm) its between 10-12. If I idle in down even more by loading it with the A/C and backing the throttle adjustment screw to get it to 750rpm its at 10 steady. Around 1000 rpm it moves between 10-12 based on the lopyness of the motor. I don't know what rpm the timing stops climbing because I don't have any help but it defenetly stops at 28 degrees and I brought it up to 5400 rpm and hit the rev limiting chip to be sure it doesn't climb anymore.
Have not test drove yet.
Can leaded race fuel make your tailpipe gray and not black?
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Mon Jun 04, 2007 3:15 am ]
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Quote:
Quote:
I am wondering if checking side and end play in the distributor is in order. What is the story on it? Used? New?
The distributor is new from the guy that Dan recommends online. (maybe jack something at AOL) I guess that dosen't mean its in good shape.

Bought a dial back timing light the other day to replace my nondial back light and checked the timing today. Found that total timing (without vac hose, hose has been disconnected and plugged from the beginning.) was still 35 degrees even after I watched the dyno guy and his old old light set it at 31 degrees for "a safer setting for the street". I moved it to 28 total. At idle (1000rpm) its between 10-12. If I idle in down even more by loading it with the A/C and backing the throttle adjustment screw to get it to 750rpm its at 10 steady. Around 1000 rpm it moves between 10-12 based on the lopyness of the motor. I don't know what rpm the timing stops climbing because I don't have any help but it defenetly stops at 28 degrees and I brought it up to 5400 rpm and hit the rev limiting chip to be sure it doesn't climb anymore.
Have not test drove yet.
Can leaded race fuel make your tailpipe gray and not black?
gray tailpipe, if it's too light a shade of gray, can indicate extremely lean condition. soothy black pipe on the other hand means rich, rich, rich. Dark grey is good... but how we can explain shades of gray on an exhaust pipe withouth risking total stupidity... :roll: I've already done my share with "i think I hear low compression"... :oops: :D
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