Sort of.

I am doing this Seymour style. (like he did on the Blue (ryan's) Car.)

An Under dash bar with bars from that under dash bar connected to tie in the front frame rails.

I could at some point in the future easily tie in the under dash bar to the Cage.

Pictures will illustrate this soon.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Congrats on the baby girl and that's an awesome project you have going.....

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1964 Dodge Dart 270 four door. Three speed automatic 225 Slant with a Carter BBS carb.

Thanks to all for the thoughtful wishes on the Daughter.. She is doing well and keeping us busy.

I have found some time to Do a bit of work on ruster.

I finished the Rear Wheel Tubs and Created a Template to Get the Wheel Well attached to the Existing Quarter panel without rivets, welding etc.

I also Was able to Fab up some 3/4" Thin Wall 4130 Tubes to connect the "C" panel to the Rear Struts of the Roll Bar. (thanks Seymour for the Tubing Donations)



Now the Quarter panels dont flex and bend when I try to push the car or lean on the Panel.. They needed some reinforcement after trashing the package tray, The rear X brace and the Rear Wheel houses.









I also was able to Begin on the Dash Bar which is made from 1 5/8" X 0.53" 4130 Tubing. It, along with 2 small Shim Plates added 5.1#









Here are Some shots of the Bar Being Fitted.















In Prepping for the Underdash Bar I was able to remove 8.6# of Underdash Stuff, metal, Wiring Harness etc. (take .2# off for the cardboard container)






So at last Check Ruster was 2082.3# -8.6+5.1..
That's a 3.5# weight Reduction.
Calculated weight should be:
2078.8#



Some Shots of the Dash Bar All Tig Welded in place:
(you have to be a creative contortionist to weld tube in an enclosed car interior)



























Next Some Fabbin on this Piece:

To connect it to the dash bar, Also a mount for the steering wheel, and getting the Down tubes bent and Welded in to connect the Front rails.


Then K Frame Weight Reduction Time!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Since My last Post I have gotten a few things accomplished..

I got the Brake pedal mount Tied into the Dash Bar and a Mount for the Steering wheel all welded in and fabbed up.

I also Have Some of the New Oiling System Components Bought and Sorted out. They add weight at this point, but if they help to make more power that is good.


Here are the Pictures:


I did a bit of cutting and modification to the old factory brake pedal bracket; here are some of the parts I cut away.. The scale says 0.800#, but you must take away for the weight of the container, so that leaves us at 0.562#



Here ore some shots of that piece modified and tied together.












Here are some shots of it installed and welded to the Dash Bar, along with the steering wheel mount too.









While I was welding a bit I did manage to Get the Mounting ears for the new Engine Plate installed..





This is Edd J's Engine Plate.. Excellent Design and It Fit into the A body Chassis without Much fuss.

The Engine Plate With all the Brackets and Hardware it was 5.620#
The stock steel mounts that they replaced were 6.5# YAY!


Here are a few more Bits that I will not be reusing.. -0.380#.



Here are some Shots of the Oil Pump Plate, the External Oil Pump, and the vacuum Pump, with their Weights.


Here is the Oil Pump engine Adapter Plate that I had Made up:
It adds 0.428# to the car.






Here is the external Single stage Oil Pump.. It was an Ebay score and I believe the In and Out Ports are -10AN. It adds 4.058#









And finally THe Vacuum Pump.. It adds 6.030# Again another Ebay Score..







I am having a Local Fab Shop Make me one of these Transmission Supports from 3/16" ALuminum.. This one from Ma Mopar weighed 1.55# If I can Loose 1 # Here I would be Happy.



Here's The Weigh In...
After taking a few Pounds away, The Additional Components added 9.6#..
At Last check Ruster was 2078.8# + 9.6#
= 2088.4 Hopefully some of that can get Taken out again with the Modification of the K Frame.

Happy 2014, and Stay Tuned..


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I am Having Some Downtubes made up to tie in the Front Frame rails to the Dash Bar.

While a Wait for the local fab shop to bend the tube,

I have been busy on some engine details.
Since The oil pump gear on the cam was Pretty much Trash for all intents and Purposes I am tossing the Distributor.. Going with A megasquirt 3 to run Coil On Plug Wasted Spark.

Here are some Fun shots of the Valve cover with the Coils plumbed up!















Now I just Need to relocate the oil Fill and vacuum Port. Also Weld up the Old Oil Fill (under #1 Coil) and Also Weld up the PVC Port (under #5 Coil)


I was able to Find a mandrel Drive Kit that Bolts up to the Romac Slant 6 Balancer without much Fuss... Its A Moroso Dry sump/ Vacuum Drive kit listed for a Small Block Chevy.. 3 of the Bolt Holes Line up pretty well with the Romac.. i enlarged them from 25/64" to 27/64"






Also I got the -10 plumbing for the Oil Send and Return lines out of the Engine.









Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Looking good.
Coil on plug, you are going to like that!!!
Will

Takes one to know one



Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Wow!! That is a lot of extra weight!!!

Lookin good Greg!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

yes it is... I have yet to weigh them...but I will.
that's why I have to keep cuttin on other stuff.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

At this Point I have a bunch of stuff to wait on to get done.

Waiting for the Machine shop to return the crank

Waiting for the Fab shop to bend the Front tubes for the Frame Rails.

So in the meantime I am getting little things accomplished.

Rick.. To answer Your question yes those 6 coils did add weight.. But I have already taken Just as much off the K frame.

Here are some pictures:

I made some circular Plates to weld over the old Oil Fill and the Old PCV port on the valve cover.. I Tig'ed them in place.












Each coil Weighed 0.912# X6= 5.4#



The Small Block Chevy Mandrel Drive Kit added 3.9#



And The Oberg 6" Filter Added 4.9#






Here are some Shots of the Front end Getting ready for the Down Tube Install.


















I have also Begun a K frame Diet Plan... This thing Will be sliced and diced a whole bunch before it's reinstalled.




It weighed 32.6 Before any Modification.


At last Check Ruster was a 2088.4
Add 5.4# for the coils
Add 4.9# for the Oberg Filter
Add 3.9# for the Mandrel Drive.
That totals to 2102.6

So Hopefully the Coils will add Power/ Fire and I will be cuttin a bunch off of the Front to get back below the 2100# Mark.



Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Dang, you are doin' much better than Marie Osmond!

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

Well Progress has been slow, But steady on Lightening, Rebuilding and Rewiring everything on the car.

Here's What I got done today:

I finished the K frame and the Valve cover. The K frame is much Lighter and more Swiss cheese looking than before. The Valve cover got a -12 Bung for the Vacuum Pump To pull from and then I welded a -16 Bung for an oil fill and Cap.

Here are some Pics:

K Frame Before Cutting and Hacking:



K Frame after Cutting and Hacking:















Heres all the stuff that came off of it:


The Weigh In: Before it weighed 32.6
Now:



YAY 20.4# K frame..

Ruster Looses another 12.2# off the Front!
Calculated Weight is Now: 2090.4.. Back Below the 2100# mark.


Here are some shots of the Valve cover with Vacuum and Oil Fill attachments... before paint.















Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I love the new K..... Now my K looks so ugly....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

That K-Frame looks AWESOME, great job!!!

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Destroked 300 (272ci)

Now you can call it

Special K frame

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes